* * * E-BENCH * * *
A New Method of Learning in a New Millennium
April 2000
Volume 1 Issue 4
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We are now on the World Wide Web. Visit us at http://www.bwsimon.com/ A complete archive of back issues of E-BENCH is located at this address. Just follow the links to E-BENCH. Visit often as we will be making changes to our site adding additional useful information for bench jewelers.
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ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER
E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for Retail Jewelry Store Owners, Shop Managers, and Bench Jewelers. It is an informational and marketing publication of the B W Simon Company (formerly Institute for Bench Jewelers).
We assure you that your email address is kept strictly confidential and is not shared with anyone for any reason.
We encourage you to forward this newsletter to anyone that you think may benefit from it, provided that you forward all of it without modification and not just portions of it. This document may NOT be distributed for profit. E-BENCH is a copyrighted newsletter and all rights are reserved!
If you change your e-mail address PLEASE let us know. Each month we have several newsletters returned to us because the e-mail address is no longer in service. We have no alternative method of contacting you. We cannot send you future issues unless you notify us of your new e-mail address.
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CONTENTS:
LEADERS EDGE
A feature article on shop management issues.
This Issue – Take-In Not Taken part 3
QUOTES WORTH RE-QUOTING
Motivational insights from some of the best.
FEATURED PRODUCT
Make your Shop more Profitable with Products from
B W Simon.
TRADE SECRETS
Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little easier and more productive.
SIMON SEZ
See and hear Bradney W. Simon in person, Check when he is speaking in your area.
PRODUCT REVIEW
Learn about an innovative new product in this new feature.
ON THE BENCH
Learn a new technique or brush up on basic skills with this feature article.
This Issue – Back To Basics - SAWING
READERS RESPOND
See what other readers have to say in this “e-mail to the editors”
EMPLOYMENT NEWS
Looking for a new jeweler or a new job?
Check out this column each month.
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* * * LEADERS EDGE * * *
Take-In not Taken - Part III
Go into your store and gather all of the job envelopes with customer’s jewelry. All the envelopes in the shop waiting to be worked on, and all the envelopes with the jobs finished waiting to be picked up by the customer. Then get a large box. Place all the jewelry from the envelopes into the box and shake it up. Not too much, you do not want to damage any of the jewelry! Next, take the jewelry out of the box and return it to its correct envelope.
Now I really do not want you to do this, but I want you to think about it. If you did do it, could you get the jewelry back into the right envelope? If you can not do it from the description you wrote, how do you expect your jeweler to do it!
Your jeweler does this everyday. They work on the jewelry, and place it into the cleaner. Then with the description written on the envelope they have to place it back into the correct envelope. Your jeweler may work on 20 to 30 pieces of jewelry a day, and it is impossible to put the jewelry back into the correct envelope without an accurate description on the envelope.
Your description should include:
Jewelry (Type)
In general terms describe the piece of jewelry: ladies or gents, ring, chain, bracelet, earrings, pin, pendant, or watch.
Metal
Describe metal by referencing its color only (e.g. write yellow, not gold), noting the presence, and wording of any quality stamps (e.g. write stamped 14k, not 14k gold). If you identify an item as gold-filled or plated, notify the customer, and if they want the repair to proceed, write test as gold-filled or test as plated.
Stones
Describe a stone by Color, Size, And Shape only, NEVER write what you think is the name of the stone on the envelope. However, identify items on the envelope that test as lower quality than what they represent. When, for example you identify a cubic zirconia, write on the envelope: test as CZ not clear stone. If your tests show the stone to be synthetic or imitation and the customer agrees to the repair, state your findings on the envelope. Otherwise, follow standard industry procedures and limit the description to color, shape, and size.
Note any chips, abrasions, and/or inclusions. To further identify large or expensive stones, stamp the back of the envelope and the receipt with a rubber stamp of the shape of the stone. Plot on the diagram all inclusions and chips.
Condition
Based on your inspection, note the condition of the item: wear, damage, prior repairs, and all factors that affect the value of the item; the potential for damage claims; and the ability to repair it successfully.
In addition, list any unusual features or factors the bench jeweler should know or the record should show. If, for example, you have recommended a repair (retipping worn prongs, for example) and the customer declines that recommendation, write it here. If the customer then returns demanding a new stone because the stone fell out of the mounting you repaired, you have proof that you saw worn prongs, warned of the danger, and repair options were declined.
Instructions
Clearly, specifically, and completely write the repair instructions in terms the bench jeweler understands. You want to eliminate confusing, incomplete, or inaccurate instructions and with them the chance of unacceptable or unwanted repairs. Do not write Please Fix or Solder. State exactly what the customer wants repaired.
Ring Sizing
When recording sizing instructions, also measure and record the shank’s width and thickness to the tenth of a millimeter. For example, shank 1.6mm thick, 2.7mm wide. This protects you if the customer says that sizing thinned the shank too much; you can measure the shank and show it is the same size as at take-in.
Retipping
When taking-in jewelry for re-tipping, do not just write “Retip Prongs”. Be specific, state the number of prongs to be retipped and designate them on a simply drawn diagram. Draw a sketch of circles for the stones and a line for the prongs that need to be retipped. Do not draw any prongs that do not need work.
Chain Repair
When taking in a broken chain for repair, first measure and record to the nearest eighth of an inch the total length of all pieces of the chain. If its length is only 10 or 12 inches, you know and should tell the customer that a piece of chain is missing.
Next, measure (again to the nearest eighth of an inch) and record the length from the clasp of the chain to the break. If the customer brings the chain in again, this record shows if the chain has broken in the repaired spot, or if it is a new break.
Estimates
Always give the customer an estimate of routine repair work when the jewelry is left. This allows the customer to decide whether or not to have the repair done before you begin doing it. If the price is to high, you can work with the customer to modify the amount of work to be done until it meets their budget.
For common repairs, all salespeople performing take-ins should know how to use the store’s price sheet to calculate total estimates.
On unusual repairs, make a notation for an estimate on the envelope. All salespeople need to use the same procedure. Then the bench jeweler will not overlook the notation. A good practice is to use a red pen and write out the word ESTIMATE across the top of the envelope. Prepare the estimate and notify the customer with the estimate as soon as possible.
A story is told about a young couple who had their first baby. Soon after the baby was born the father stayed home with the baby by himself. When the mother returned she was greeted at the door of their house with a horrendous odor. “Could you not change the baby’s diaper,” she demanded of her husband. He assured her that he had thought he should, and even started to do it. “But” he explained, “the box states the diaper holds up to 12 pounds!”
Often a bench jeweler feels the same frustration trying to understand instructions on the job envelopes, as this new father experienced reading the diaper box.
Do not let this happen to you! Properly examining the jewelry and filling out the envelope will make your shop more efficient. Your Bench Jewelers will become more productive and the store’s liability will be decreased. In addition, your image as a professional jeweler will be enhanced.
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* * * QUOTES WORTH RE-QUOTING * * *
It has been my observation that the people who get ahead in this world, do so during the time others waste.
Henry Ford
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Show me a stock clerk with vision – and I’ll show you a manager. Show me a manager without vision – and I’ll show you a stock clerk.
J. C. Penney
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"Whenever you are to do a thing that can never be known but to yourself, ask yourself how you would act were all the world looking at you, and act accordingly."
Thomas Jefferson
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"Whether you think you can or think you can't - you're right!"
Henry Ford
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"Our deeds determine us, as much as we determine our deeds."
George Eliot
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"Do every act of your life as if it was your last."
Marcus Aurelius
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Blessed is the man who does not walk in the counsel of the wicked or stand in the way of sinners or sit in the seat of mockers. But his delight is in the law of the Lord, and on his law he meditates day and night. He is like a tree planted by streams of water, which yields its fruit in season and whose leaf does not wither. Whatever he does prospers.
Psalms 1:1-3
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* * * FEATURED PRODUCT * * *
Run Your Shop Without It Running You <><> All Day Seminar
Throughout the United States, Repair Shops in Jewelry Stores operate on the 80/20 principle. That is the repair shop produces 80% of the problems, and only 20% of the income. IT DOES NOT HAVE TO BE THIS WAY!
The Jewelry Repair Shop CAN Run Smoothly and Efficiently. Learn how in this brand new all-day seminar, offered in 22 cities during 2000.
“The repair shop is too important to our stores to ignore,” says Bradney W. Simon, seminar leader. “Retail Jewelers need to learn how to make their shops efficient and profitable or their business will suffer.”
As one of the few JA Certified Master Bench Jewelers, Bradney is knowledgeable about his subject. In addition, he is an accomplished speaker and adds humor, stories, and a touch of magic to make his seminars enjoyable as well as informative.
Participants Listen – Laugh – Learn – Leave with a new understanding of shop profitability.
This seminar will help retail jewelers increase profits by operating an efficient repair shop. It contains innovative and practical information that you can easily use in your store.
Registration
ONLY $149 per person
SAVE $$$
2 or more from same store ~ ONLY $134 per person
Registration MUST be postmarked 2 weeks prior to seminar date
or a $20 per person late fee will apply.
See “Simon Sez” section in this newsletter for Dates and
Locations.
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* * * TRADE SECRETS * * *
Sizing heavy gent’s rings can be difficult because of the metal thickness in the shank. Straightening the ring on a ring mandrel can be particularly challenging. Using a Lead-filled weighted rawhide mallet, or a dead-blow mallet will provide the extra force needed to make this job easier.
In addition, when opening-up a shank for up sizing, one of these mallets can be used to force the ring down on a ring mandrel, after sawing through the shank.
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A bench mounted ring shank bender is almost a necessity to curve the gold stock needed to size a heavy gents ring up or to form a ½ shank.
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Robert Gravley, a jeweler friend of mine, does a lot of repairs on invisible set diamonds. Here is his method to repair a diamond that has fallen out. First, test fit the diamond in the mounting and clean away any part of the damaged channel that would prohibit the diamond from fitting back in. Then cut two sections of platinum wire the length of the diamond (use a size of wire that will fit into the groove of the stone). Place the wires in the grooves of the diamond, and secure them with a small amount of super glue. Coat the mounting and the diamond with boric acid and alcohol and burn the off the alcohol. Then, run a bead of 14k white paste solder on the channel walls, and carefully place the diamond into place. Heat the mounting until the solder flows. If necessary adjust the position of the diamond with tweezers or a solder pick while soldering. The platinum wire will be soldered to the mounting sidewall creating a new tongue to hold the diamond in place.
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Another tip from Robert to tighten a loose diamond in an invisible set mounting is to place a wooden doll rod in your hammer hand piece (a section of bamboo skewer works well, but any wooden doll rod will suffice). Then tap ONCE or TWICE on the top of the loose diamond. The downward pressure on the diamond will cause the metal in the support channel to spread, tightening the diamond. Tap once or twice. Then check for tightness. Repeat as necessary.
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Another method to tighten invisible set diamonds is to use a #50 graver ground to a long narrow point. From the backside of the mounting cut a small bead from the support channel and press it tight against the pavilion of the diamond. One or two beads on each side of the diamond will generally hold it tight.
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As a last resort supper glue can be used. Using the tip of a needle place only enough glue to fill the gap between the groove in the stone and the metal tongue of the channel. When done properly you should not be able to see any glue from the topside or from underneath.
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* * SIMON SEZ * * *
See and hear Bradney W. Simon in person
at the following Events.
Run Your Shop Without It Running You <><> All-Day Seminars
This brand new all-day seminar will be offered in 22 cities during 2000. This seminar will help retail jewelers increase profits by operating an efficient jewelry repair shop. It contains innovative and practical information that you can use in your store. Topics include: Pricing, Take-In Procedures, Productivity in the Shop, Employee Development, and Much More.
Seminar Dates Remaining:
Alabama
Birmingham <><> June 19
Mobile <><> July 10
Arkansas
Little Rock <><> June 22
Florida
Fort Lauderdale <><> July 15
Jacksonville <><> July 12
Orlando <><> July 13
St. Petersburg <><> July 14
Tallahassee <><> July 11
Kentucky
Louisville <><> August 7
Louisiana
New Orleans <><> June 24
Mississippi
Jackson <><> June 23
North Carolina
Raleigh <><> August 10
Winston-Salem <><> August 9
Tennessee
Memphis <><> June 21
Nashville <><> June 20
Virginia
Richmond <><> August 11
Virginia Beach <><> August 12
West Virginia
Charleston <><> August 8
For additional information on these seminars contact:
B W Simon
1066 Hopkins St.
Spartanburg, SC 29307
864 – 598 – 5274
We would like to Thank the following Sponsors who help make these Seminars possible.
Gesswein Co, Inc.
800-243-4466
Southern Jewelry News
704-827-2171
Rio Grande
800–545–6566
Impact Specialties, Inc.
770-458-9077
Southeastern Findings & Namano
800-282-8285
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Bradney W. Simon is an accomplished platform speaker and provides Keynote Speeches, Educational Seminars, and Bench Demonstrations. For information on having him speak for your organization visit us on the web at www.BWSimon.com
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PRODUCT REVIEW
3M Radial Disc
When I first saw the 3M Radial Disc, I thought these are worthless. They are too soft; they will tear and fall apart. Was I ever wrong! Yes, they are soft and pliable which to their advantage allows you to use them in hard to reach areas. Yet, they are extremely durable. They do not tear nor loose bristles. They wear slowly with use, providing long life.
Four grits are available, 80 (yellow), 220 (red), 400 (blue), and pumice (light gray). My favorite is the blue 400 grit. I have several mandrels at my bench stacked with 3 to 8 discs providing me with a variety of brush widths.
My favorite application for these is to clean-up chains after soldering to prepare them for polishing. The soft bristles easily gets around and between the links of the chain without removing much metal or changing the shape of the links. They also make easy work of cleaning between prongs after soldering new crowns in place.
Although the softness and flexibility of these brushes are a great advantage, there are times when a stiffer bristle would be helpful. A second harder version would be a great addition to the ones already on the market.
I highly recommend the 3M Radial Bristle Disc. Use them prior to polishing whenever you would use a bristle brush to polish.
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* * * ON THE BENCH * * *
Back To Basics - SAWING
When legendary football coach Vince Lombardi took over the Green Bay Packers, he instituted training in the basics. At the first meeting with the players he held a football up in his hand and said “Gentlemen this is a football.” This was to a group of professional football players. They had played football most of their lives. If anybody knew what a football looked like it was them. However, Coach Lombardi left nothing to chance. To him, the team that won was the team that performed the basics of football the best. The team that blocked better, ran the ball better, and tackled better than the other team, usually won. His packers won the first two Super Bowls. In all sports, professional athletes practice many of the same drills they learned in youth leagues as a child. They know practicing basic skills will allow them to perform better at their level.
Working on jewelry, whether repairing or creating a new piece, is no different. A bench jeweler must perform basic skills with precision in order to create excellent work - Skills such a sawing, filing, soldering, and polishing need to be mastered. Over the next few months I will be presenting a few of these in a series call back to basics. For the apprentice jeweler, these articles will lay the foundation upon which the skills of the trade can be built. For the rest, these articles will serve as an important review. At the jeweler’s bench, even the most complicated task is a compilation of basic skills performed with precision and accuracy. Because of this it is advantages for all jewelers even the most advanced to review and practice the basics. This month we will cover the basic skill of sawing.
The jeweler’s saw is one of the most widely used tools at the jeweler’s bench. In the hands of a skilled craftsman, a saw can produce the most intricate patterns or accurate straight lines. It is also used as a file in small areas inaccessible by other tools. It is important for a bench jeweler to master the skills of sawing to perform quality workmanship. These skills are not difficult. However, to achieve precision practice of correct mechanics is required.
To begin cutting, place the metal on the bench pin. Hold it firmly; if the metal slips the blade will break. Rest the saw blade against its edge; gently draw the blade downward. The blade should begin to cut. If it does not, check the blade. It maybe the wrong size for the metal being cut or it maybe installed upside down. The teeth should point down towards the handle, cutting on the down stroke. If the teeth point upwards, remove the blade and turn it around.
Continue with a slow steady up and down rhythm using the entire length of the blade. This will allow you to saw faster and more accurately. Short choppy strokes result in uneven sawing and will prematurely wear out that section of the blade, causing it to break. On the downward stroke, a natural forward movement provides sufficient pressure on the blade. Too little pressure allows the teeth to simply scrape the metal, which is ineffective. An excess of forward or downward pressure will cause the blade to break.
Release the forward pressure on the upward return stroke. It only repositions the blade for the next downward cutting stroke. Dragging the teeth on the up stroke can cause the blade to misshape and the teeth to wear unevenly.
Saw in front of your body in a forward direction. Some jewelers keep the saw in one forward position and move the metal into the saw. Others hold the metal steady and move the saw in the desired direction. Still others move both the metal and saw as necessary. With a little practice, you will develop the most natural method for you.
Sawing is most efficient when remaining relaxed while sawing. Tensing muscles in the hand, arm or shoulders cause fatigue and cramping. In addition, un-satisfactory sawing will result. The arm and shoulder should be loose and the hand remaining relaxed. If necessary, adjust your chair or body position in order to be comfortable and relaxed while sawing.
Always saw on the waste side of the line. Cut as close to the line as possible without cutting into it. It is always better to leave too much metal, which can be removed latter, than to cut away too much metal. With experience, you will be able to cut right along the line with no additional clean up needed when finished.
As you saw, blow away metal filings that accumulate. Then the cutting line remains visible for more accurate cutting. Always pull the lap tray out beneath the bench pin. This will catch the filings from sawing. Collect them and send them to a refiner for recovery.
To saw a straight line, tilt the saw forward slightly. Then the cut already made will help guide the blade, and it is easier to sight the straight line along the blade.
To saw curves, keep the blade perpendicular to the metal. Tilting the saw forward while rounding a curve will pinch the blade causing it to break prematurely.
To make a sharp turn, continue the same up and down rhythm without any forward pressure. Then slowly rotate the metal around the moving blade. On each downward stroke, make a slight sideways cut until you reach the new direction.
Saw blades do wear out. When teeth are dulled to the point where extra force must be used in cutting, it is best to replace the blade. Extra pressure decreases control; therefore nothing is gained by this economy.
Often saw blades break before they wear out, a wasteful situation. This can be avoided or at least minimized with proper sawing procedures. The two main reasons for blades breaking are too much force used while sawing, and pinching the blade from twisting either the metal or the saw frame.
DO NOT throw broken or worn out blades away. Particles of gold become lodged in the teeth during use. Place all old saw blades in the container with the used polishing machine filters to be refined. A good refiner can reclaim this gold.
An excellent practice exercise is to cut out pennies. Drill a hole in the background area and thread the saw blade through. Cut around the profile of Lincoln. Then saw around the inside of the edge of the coin, forming a frame around Lincoln’s head.
Precise sawing is important. It saves both metal and time. When you perform accurate sawing very little, if any filing is needed. Following these basic procedures and with a little practice, one can easily master the art of using the jeweler’s saw.
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* * * READERS RESPOND * * *
E-BENCH all three issues were great.
Retiring after 42
years.
Have for sale, Tann safe TRTL 30x6, custom showcases.
Contact Jim
at Jaylyn10@aol.com
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* * * EMPLOYMENT NEWS * * *
Bench Jeweler Employment News is a FREE service for Retail Jewelry Stores and Individual Jewelers. No Employment Agency Requests Accepted. For your free listing submit your request in 50 words or less to E-BENCH at mstrjwlr@spartanurg.net and type Employment News as the subject. Your request will be printed in the next issue. To keep this area current, your listing will be printed only once. If the position is not filled, you will need to re-submit your request to be printed in the next issue. This is for shop personal ONLY. Request for sales or store manager positions will not be accepted. No “blind box” ads available.
POSITIONS AVAILABLE
Bench jeweler wanted for Chicago suburban AGS jewelry store. Family store established in 1897. Knowledge in basic repair, and setting required. Salary commensurate with skill. Full benefits. Position available immediately. Reply to Theresa @ (815)741-8502
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GOLDSMITH, Full-time position for experienced goldsmith, repair person for a guild store in beautiful Bellingham, Washington. All types of stone setting required. We specialize in gold and platinum. Excellent pay and benefits. gbheronwa@aol.com, 360/671-4706 or fax: 360/671-3829
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SEEKING EMPLOYMENT
Jewelry Repair & Design studio seeking new accounts. Master Jeweler, Myke Schmalzriedt, seeking retail jewelers with the need for a quality Setter/Model maker. ALL work done with attention to detail, quality craftsmanship, and in a timely manner! Specializing in all fashions of stone setting, casting, moldmaking, modelmaking, repair, and restoration!
Call, write, or email for resume, ref's, and wholesale price
list.
Serious inquires only!
MS Jewelry
2302
57Rd.
Kunkletown,PA 18058
(610) 826-5576
Gldn1au1@cs.com
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Thank You for Reading.
For editorial suggestions, comments, ideas or requests, please
send an E-Mail to mstrjwlr@spartanburg.net.
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We encourage you to forward this newsletter to anyone that you think may benefit from it, provided that you forward all of it without modification and not just portions of it.
Information provided in this document is provided ‘As Is’ without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied. This publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative information concerning the subject matter covered. It is provided with the understanding that the author or publisher is not engaged in rendering legal, accounting, or other professional services. If legal advice or other expert assistance is required, the services of a competent professional person should be sought.
PRIVACY STATEMENT
We honor your privacy. We do not sell, rent, or otherwise disclose our list of subscribers. Your email address is kept strictly confidential and is not shared with anyone for any reason.
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Copyrighted, 2000, B W Simon. All rights reserved.
For more information, contact:
B W Simon
1066 Hopkins St.
Spartanburg, SC 29307
www.BWSimon.com