<> <> <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <> <>
A New Method of Learning in a New Millennium
September 2000
Volume 1 Issue
9
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<> <> <> <> ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER <> <> <> <>
E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for
Retail Jewelry Store Owners, Shop Managers, Bench Jewelers,
and Anyone Else
That Is Interested.
We encourage you to forward this newsletter to anyone that you think may benefit from it, provided that you forward all of it without modification and not just portions of it. This document may NOT be distributed for profit. E-BENCH is a copyrighted newsletter and all rights are reserved!
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E-BENCH is sent to you each month FREE of charge because of the generous support of our SPONSORS. Each of our Sponsors is a quality company that I personally do business with.
Please support them with your purchases.
Thanks – Bradney W. Simon
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<> <> <> <> <> PLATINUM SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>
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<> <> <> <> <> TABLE OF CONTENTS <> <> <> <> <>
RUN YOUR SHOP WITHOUT IT RUNNING YOU
A feature article on shop management issues
QUOTES WORTH RE-QUOTING
Motivational insights from some of the best
SIMON SEZ
See and hear Bradney W. Simon in person
TRADE SECRETS
Tips and Tricks to make your work on the
bench a little easier
and more productive
ON THE BENCH
Learn a new technique or brush up on
basic skills with this
feature article.
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<> <> RUN YOUR SHOP WITHOUT IT RUNNING YOU <> <>
What You Don’t Know
Several years ago, Shawn came to work for me. Although he had only ten years experience primarily at one store, Shawn was probably the best bench jeweler I have ever worked with. Soon after he started working for me, I asked him if he worked on platinum.
He responded with the typical bench jeweler’s response, “uh-huh”.
I said “Great! Here’s a platinum ring that needs to be sized.”
He took the ring, and tossed it aside on his bench, as he rolled his eyes back in his head.
Not realizing how profound my next action would be, I walked over to my bench, picked up my welding goggles, and handed them to him. I said. “These are the only welding goggles I have. You can use them today and the next time I’m out I will pick up a pair for you.”
He did not say anything, but went on with his work.
The next thing I heard from Shawn was the exclamation; “Wow! This is great!”
“What is so great Shawn?” I asked.
“Wearing welding goggles while soldering platinum,” he responded.
Now for those of you who don’t know about soldering platinum, you must heat platinum to thirty two hundred degrees in order for it to melt. At this point, the platinum is glowing bright red. If you look at it without protection on your eyes, it will damage your eyesight.
So when Shawn responded that way, I said, “I thought you had worked on platinum before?” He responded in the affirmative again. I asked how he could have work on platinum if he had never worn welding goggles.
He told me he would get everything in place, then start heating it up. When it got so hot he could no longer look at it, he would close his eyes, and count to ten. Then remove the torch from the ring. When it had cooled, he would examine the solder joint. If the solder had not flowed properly, he would repeat the process and count to fifteen. He would continue going longer and longer each time, until the solder had properly flowed.
Within a couple of weeks, Shawn was doing some of the best platinum work I had ever seen. I mean if you learned to solder with your eyes closed, can you imagine the work you could do with them open.
Now, imagine for a minute what had been going on for the previous ten years in that other store. Every time a piece of platinum jewelry came in, the storeowner would give it to Shawn and he would roll his eyes toward the heavens, and toss it aside on his bench. I mean if you were going to go through what Shawn did every time you worked on platinum wouldn’t you procrastinate doing it also?
Imagine what that storeowner went through. Every time a piece of platinum jewelry came into the store, he would have to keep on Shawn to get it done. Shawn would say, “Yea, yea I’ll get to it”, and then procrastinate some more. The storeowner would tell Shawn how important it was to get it done. The customer that could afford platinum jewelry was very important to the store, and needed our special attention.
This storeowner was beating his head against the wall trying to motivate Shawn to work on platinum jewelry. However, it wasn’t a problem of motivation at all. It was a problem of lack of knowledge.
When Shawn learned how to properly work on platinum, I could not keep him away from it. He was motivated to work on it, he just did not know how.
Often what seems to be lack of motivation may be just a lack of knowing how to do the work. We, as managers, must continually provide opportunities to our employees to learn more about how to do their jobs. In addition, employees need to understand how important it is to their careers to learn how to do their jobs better.
There was an interesting study done several years ago that revealed 80% - 90% of all knowledge about a job is learned ON THE JOB! You see schools in America typically teach us how to learn, not necessarily what is needed to do the job. We need to be continually learning about how to do our work better. No one is ever too old to learn something new.
It is important for the growth of our business to provide our employees opportunities to continue to learn. It is also important to our careers for each of us to learn new techniques and to take time to develop new skills.
It may require us to set some time aside during our day to practice. It may require us to attend a seminar or class, to read books or trade magazines, or watch a training video. There are many excellent books and videocassettes for us to learn from, as well as several excellent schools that provide short intensive advanced classes we can attend.
In order to learn something new each day, we will need to make a commitment to spend the time to do so. However, that time will be well spent as we continue to develop our careers.
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Now you can learn in the comfort of your Home or Office with
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Training is conducted over the telephone using state-of-the-art
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TeleSeminars Save Time and Money!
A one-hour seminar is just One-Hour. There is no extra time
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For more information go to: http://www.bwsimon.com/simonsezseminars/teleseminars.htm
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<> <> <> <> QUOTES WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>
One of the commonest mistakes and one of the costliest is thinking that success is due to some genius, some magic — something or other which we do not possess. Success is generally due to holding on, and failure to letting go. You decide to learn a language, study music, take a course of reading, train yourself physically. Will it be success or failure? It depends upon how much pluck and perseverance that word “decide” contains. The decision that nothing can overrule, the grip that nothing can detach will bring success. Remember the Chinese proverb, “With time and patience, the mulberry leaf becomes satin.”
-- Maltbie Davenport Babcock
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Patience and perseverance at length - Accomplish more than anger or brute strength.
-- Jean de La Fontaine
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Our real blessings often appear to us in the shapes of pains, losses and the disappointments; but let us have patience, and we soon shall see them in their proper figures.
-- Joseph Addison
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The key to everything is patience. You get the chicken by hatching the egg - not by smashing it.
-- Arnold Glasow
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Industry and patience are the surest means of plenty.
-- Benjamin Franklin
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When nothing seems to help, I go and look at a stonecutter hammering away at his rock perhaps a hundred times without as much as a crack showing in it. Yet at the hundred and first blow it will split in two, and I know it was not that blow that did it, but all that had gone before.
-- Jacob Riis
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Everyone should be quick to listen, slow to speak, and slow to become angry.
-- The Bible - James 1:19
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They who wait upon the Lord shall renew their strength. They shall mount up with wings like eagles. They shall run and not be weary; they shall walk and not faint.
-- The Bible – Isaiah 40:31
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<> <> <> <> <> SIMON SEZ SEMINARS <> <> <> <> <>
Bradney W. Simon is an accomplished
platform speaker, he
provides Keynote Speeches, and Educational
Seminars. For information on having
him speak for your organization visit us on the web at http://www.bwsimon.com/
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
See and hear Bradney W. Simon at the following Seminars
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
=> Trade Secrets
Tips, Tricks, & Techniques of a Master Jeweler
Making and repairing jewelry encompasses
only a few basic techniques.
However, there are numerous tricks to use in mastering those techniques.
In this interactive seminar you will learn tips, tricks, and techniques on
jewelry repair, fabrication, and stone setting from a JA Certified Master Bench
Jeweler.
Oklahoma Jewelers Association <=> September 24th
For more information and to register contact
Sharon Blair 1-800-487-7822
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
=> Where It’s @
How To Win The Battles In Cyber
Space
And Market Your Store Successfully
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
=> Run Your Shop Without It Running
You
This seminar will help jewelers increase
profits by operating an efficient jewelry repair shop. It contains innovative and
practical
information that you can use in your store. Topics include: Pricing, Take-In
Procedures, Productivity in the Shop, Employee Development, and Much
More.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
<> <> <> <> Attend A Seminar for FREE <> <> <> <>
If a seminar is not offered near you contact Bradney Simon
For information on hosting a seminar.
mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com?subject=Host
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<> <> <> <> <> <> GOLD SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> <>
Place Your Ad Here
Over 800 Bench Jewelers will see your message, plus it will remain in our permanent archive at http://www.bwsimon.com/
For Information and rates on placing an Ad
mailto:E-BENCH@BWSimon.com?subject=Sponsor
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<> <> <> <> <> TRADE SECRETS <> <> <> <> <>
After cutting the seat, clean the burs off the prongs before placing the stone into the crown. Use a graver to cut the burs away, or scrape them off with your tweezers. Then, polish the inside of the crown before continuing the setting process.
It's the little extra that makes the ordinary into
extraordinary.
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To cut short pieces of equal length wire, buy a short section
of copper pipe the approximate diameter that you want the length of the
wires. Then, drill a hole the size
of the wire, in one side of the pipe.
If necessary squeeze the pipe slightly oval to make the distance across
the pipe the same as the length of wire you need. Then, insert the wire through the hole
until it hits the pipe on the other side.
Using cutters snip the wire off flush with the side of the pipe. Repeat the cutting process for the
number of wires you need.
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To make a power burnisher, remove the screw from the end of a
flex-shaft mandrel. Insert a screw
eye in its place and solder together.
To use, place in your flex-shaft and hold the rotating screw eye against
your metal. The edges of the screw
eye will burnish any soft metal, and you can watch your progress through its
opening.
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Cut a line down the center of a ceramic soldering board using
a cut-off wheel in your flex-shaft.
When repairing chains, place the break in the chain over this line. Then, it will be easier to locate the
break to solder.
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The plastic coffee stirs from McDonalds make excellent paddles
for mixing epoxies.
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When channel setting square stones, a tapered square hole must be cut to accommodate the pavilion of the stone. This can be accomplished by first using a hart bur held perpendicular to the mounting to cut the four-corners. Then, use a small wheel bur to remove the metal between the corner cuts.
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To channel set stones in a solid plate first lay out the stones on the plate. Then cut a seat slightly smaller than the stones into the plate. Next, remove the metal from between the stones with a wheel bur forming the channel in the plate. Polish the inside of channel and set the stones using normal channel setting procedures.
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If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it in an e-mail to mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com
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<> <> <> <> SPECIAL ANNOUNCEMENT <> <> <> <>
Writer’s Digest Magazine recently announced the winners in their Self-Published Book Awards. Bradney W. Simon received a Certificate of Merit for his book “Run Your Shop Without It Running You”.
> In presenting this award, the judges stated,
> “The author clearly knows his topic inside and out.
> Others in his business can learn a great deal from this book.”
Learn how to make your shop more efficient and profitable. Order your copy of “Run Your Shop Without It Running You” today. Available as a Spiral-bound Manual or CD ROM. For more information visit http://www.bwsimon.com/
To order send your check for $39.95 manual or $49.95 CD ROM
plus shipping ($3.50 US, $8 international) to:
B W Simon
1066 Hopkins
St.
Spartanburg, SC 29307 USA
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<> <> <> <> <> ON THE BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <>
Bead It!
Bench Jewelers often use different methods to accomplish the same work. The end results are what is important, not the method used to get there. In jewelry work the ends often justifies the means.
This is no more evident than in bead setting. I know jewelers who cut the seat with round, bud, cone, setting, hart, or bearing burs. Then they cut the excess metal away with flat, knife, or onglette gravers, or they use hart, wheel, round, or knife-edge burs. Some even use needle files or saw blades.
Over the years, I have taken a number of different ideas from a variety of jewelers and developed a method that works well for me. That is what I believe is important. Each jeweler needs to develop a method that works well for them.
Sometimes the jewelry and stones being set dictate different techniques to be used. However, the following is the method I use most often.
Layout
To layout the diamonds, place a thin coat of wax over the metal. Then place the stones table down on the metal. The wax will keep them from falling off. You can try several arrangements of the stones to find a pattern that works best. On a curved surface, space the stones further apart. When setting down in the metal they will come closer together.
Next, take a small tray or tin and fill the bottom with wax. With the point of a tweezers, draw the shape of the metal plate. The stones can then be placed in this tray in the same position as on the jewelry. Then, when setting them, they will fit the same way you laid them out.
Carefully lift the stones from the jewelry and place them in their position in the tray. After you remove each stone, mark the metal where the center of that stone is to be. A #50 round bottom graver work well for this. Later, when all the stones are removed, you can go back over these marks and make them deeper to center your drill bit.
Drilling the Holes
Using a small drill bit (less than 1/2 the diameter of the stone) drill a hole through the metal on each of your center marks. The more accurate the drilling, the less work you will have to do later. Then, inspect your work to make certain the holes are all precisely where the center of each stone is to be.
If any holes are off center, you will need to enlarge the hole to center it. Take a krause bur and place in the hole. Then cut the side of the hole towards the center of the stone. Once all the holes are centered, re-drill the hole with a larger drill bit. Use a drill bit 2/3 the diameter of the stone, and drill through the metal exactly where the center of the stone is to be.
Cutting the Seat
Begin cutting the seat by using a setting bur. Select a bur that is one size SMALLER than the stone. For example; for 2.5 mm stones use a 2.3 mm bur. Cut the seat sufficiently deep enough, to have plenty of metal to form the beads. A mistake many beginning jewelers make is to cut the seat too shallow, not allowing them to form adequate beads to hold the stones. However, be careful when cutting that you do not cut all the way through the metal. As a general rule, cut the seat deep enough that the table of the stone will set just below the plate surface.
If the metal is particularly thin, the following tip may help. When cutting the preliminary seat, use a setting bur that is slightly dull. Then, rather than cutting the metal away cleanly, it will push some of the metal down. This metal will bulge down below the plate supporting the stone.
Cutting Azures
Next, turn the jewelry over and clean up the back of the plate. If the plate is thin, all you are able
to do is scrape away any burs and polish with a bristle brush. If the plate is thick enough, you need
to cut away some of the metal surrounding the holes. These cuts are called azures. The easiest method is to cut a tapered
hole using a bud bur.
However, on finer jewelry, you will want to cut a square or triangle
shaped tapered hole. The results
look like bright cutting on the backside of the jewelry. To begin, cut a tapered
hole with a bud bur. Then, using a
hart bur held sideways cut your corners in each hole. Next, use a small wheel bur to clean
away the metal between the corners.
Then use a polished flat graver to clean up and polish your cuts.
With a little practice, you can easily cut professional looking azures in
just a few minutes.
Removing Excess Metal
The next step is to remove excess metal from around the stones and to
rough out the bright cut. First,
mark where the beads are to be, using a scribe or point of a tweezers. Then
using a small (2 - 3 mm) hart bur held perpendicular to the metal begin cutting
the excess metal. Use the seat cut
by the setting bur as a depth gauge.
Do Not Cut Below This Line.
First, cut the metal from between the stones. Then, cut around the outside forming a
45° angle for the bright cut. Be very careful to not cut any of the
metal marked for the beads. If
necessary trim the metal left for beads and clean up the cutting with a
graver.
Finish Cutting the Seats
Select a hart bur the same size or slightly smaller than the stone. Then, cut the seat for each stone by
slightly undercutting the metal left for beads. By cutting the seat in this manner, the
bead is already partially over the stone.
Setting the Stones
Remove the stones one at a time from the tray and lay it over its
corresponding seat. Inspect it to
make certain it will fit and make any necessary adjustments. Then, place one side of the stone in its
seat and push it in place using a brass pusher. Repeat the process for each stone.
Forming the Beads
Next, push the beads down tight on the stones using a graver. For most beads, place a round bottom
graver at the base of the bead and push it over the stone. Where a bar of metal is left between two
stones to form two beads, use a flat graver and cut straight down. Wiggle the graver back and forth forming
a bead onto each stone. Where a
triangle of metal is left between three stones, use a round bottom graver. Push sideways on each tip of the
triangle pushing it over a stone (one tip over each stone). Then use a beading tool to form the bead
down tight on the stones.
When all the stones are tight, clean up the beads with a graver. Then shape them using a beading
tool.
Bright Cut
Finally, go over all the remaining metal using a highly polished flat
bottom graver. Smooth out any rough
places, using long even cutting strokes.
This will leave the metal polished.
If necessary, polish with rouge only using a small
bristle brush, and finish the edge with a millgrain wheel.
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For Information and rates on placing an Ad
mailto:E-BENCH@BWSimon.com?subject=Sponsor
=================================================
<> <> <> <> <> Thank You for Reading <> <> <> <> <>
We are now on the World Wide Web.
Visit us at http://www.bwsimon.com/
A complete archive of back issues of E-BENCH is located there.
Visit often, as we will be making changes to our site, adding additional
useful information for bench jewelers.
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Information provided in this document is provided ‘As Is’ without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied. This publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative information concerning the subject matter covered. It is provided with the understanding that the author or publisher is not engaged in rendering legal, accounting, or other professional services. If legal advice or other expert assistance is required, the services of a competent professional person should be sought.
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For editorial suggestions, comments,
ideas or requests,
please send an E-Mail to Bradney W. Simon
mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com
Copyrighted, 2000, B W Simon. All rights reserved.
B W Simon
1066 Hopkins
St.
Spartanburg, SC 29307
864-921-0827
http://www.bwsimon.com/
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