<> <>  <>  <>  <>  <>  <>   E-BENCH   <>  <>  <>  <>  <>  <> <>

 

A New Method of Learning in a New Millennium

 

January 2001
Volume 2 Issue 1

 

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 <>  <>  <>  <>    ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER    <>  <>  <>  <>

 

E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for
Retail Jewelry Store Owners, Shop Managers, Bench Jewelers,
and Anyone Else That Is Interested.

 

We encourage you to forward this newsletter to anyone that you
think may benefit from it, provided that you forward all of it
without modification and not just portions of it.  This document
may NOT be distributed for profit.  E-BENCH is a copyrighted
newsletter and all rights are reserved!

 

We assure you that your email address is kept strictly
confidential and is not shared with anyone for any reason.

 

E-BENCH is sent to you each month FREE of charge because of

the generous support of our SPONSORS.  Please support them
with your purchases.

Thanks – Bradney W. Simon CMBJ, CMP

 

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<>  <>  <>  <>  <>    PLATINUM SPONSOR  <>  <>  <>  <>  <> 

 

                                  GESSWEIN & Co, Inc.

Tools, Equipment, and Supplies for Jewelry Manufacturing

Since 1914

 

      >  >  >   Gesswein 2000 Jewelers' Catalog   <  <  <


Gesswein's 432-Page full-color jewelers' catalog features over

10,000 tools, equipment, and supplies for the jewelry

manufacturing industry. In it you'll find everything you need for

making and repairing jewelry.

 

Don't miss out!

E-Mail Gesswein at info@gesswein.com for your free catalog—

an absolute must have for finding "The Right Tools"

 

Or if you prefer, browse through Gesswein's Web Site:

http://www.gesswein.com/

 

                The Right Tools – Are Right Here

 

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BENCH  -  The Magazine

 

Coming this summer.

 

 

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<> <>  <>  <>  <>    TABLE OF CONTENTS    <>  <>  <>  <> <> 

 

RUN YOUR SHOP WITHOUT IT RUNNING YOU

A feature article on shop management issues

 

QUOTES WORTH RE-QUOTING

Motivational insights from some of the best

 

SIMON SEZ

See and hear Bradney W. Simon in person

 

TRADE SECRETS

Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little easier
and more productive

 

ON THE BENCH

Learn a new technique or brush up on basic skills with this
feature article.

 

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<> <>  RUN YOUR SHOP WITHOUT IT RUNNING YOU  <> <>

 

‘Twas the Month After Christmas

 

‘Twas the month after Christmas, and all through the Shop.
Not a jeweler was stirring, in a chair he had flopped.
The shop is a mess, and the bench is a clutter.
“I can’t find a thing,” the jeweler had muttered.

 

When out in the store there arose such a clatter.
He sprung from his bench to see what was the matter.
Away to the front, he flew from the shop.
Knocked over his lunch, and spilled soda pop.

 

Then, what to his wondering eyes should appear?
But from the refiner a container, Oh Dear!
What a wonderful time to clean up the shop.
Now, where in the world did he put the mop?

 

More rapid than eagles he flew.
Cleaning the shop was his job to do.
He spoke not a word, but went straight to his chore.
He let no one disturb him by shutting the door.

 

In all the dirt that lay on the floor.
Was silver, gold, platinum and more.
The filings, and polishings, and such.
It all has great value, though it don’t look like much.

 

Laying a finger aside of the broom.
He swept up the dirt from the entire room.
To the top of the bench, then on to the wall.
Now sweep away!  Sweep away!  Sweep away all!

 

Then on to the polisher, down into its deeps.
He brushed to gather all of the sweeps.
By the time he had finished, from his head to his foot.
His clothes were all dirty with what looked like soot.

 

The sweeps were all gathered, the job was complete.
The envelopes were filed, everything looked real neat.
The tools were all hung on the bench with care.
When they are needed, he’ll know they are there.

 

The shop is now done, the sweeping concluded.
Organizing the tools was even included.
The gold was all packaged and sent to the refiner.
Now, Profits will increase, Oh what could be finer.

 

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<> <>  <>  <>  <>  <>   GOLD SPONSOR  <>  <>  <>  <>  <>  <>

 

                                Impact Specialties

Introducing our new form filling and repair management software
           >  >  >  Impact Repairware Software  <  <  < 

We have developed this new software to be used in conjunction with our laser repair envelopes, cut sheets and cards. This software will enable jewelers to computerize their process.  Impact Repairware features repair location tracking, parts and inventory database, customer database, special occasion tracking and a variety of reports. It is available in single user or multi user and features a watch repair and jewelry repair form.  Impact Repairware can be used to provide estimates, appraisals and receipts. 

For more information or to receive a FREE trial disk, visit us at

 http://www.isiprint.com or call Impact at 800 – 543 – 4264

       Impact – For All Your Jewelry Store Form Needs

 

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<>  <>  <>  <>  QUOTES WORTH RE-QUOTING  <>  <>  <>  <>

 

The important thing is not that we can live on hope alone,
but that life is not worth living without it.

Harvey Milk

 

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Write it on your heart that every day is the best day of the year.

Ralph Waldo Emerson

 

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Keough’s Commandments for Losing:

 

1. Quit taking risk.

2. Be content.

3. Before you make any move, always ask yourself, “What will the investors think?”

4. Avoid change.

5. Be totally inflexible – stay on the course, no matter what.

6. Rely totally on research and experts to make decisions for you.

7. Be more concerned with status than service.

8. Concentrate on your competitor instead of your customers.

9. Put yourself first in everything you do, ahead of your customers and suppliers.

10. Memorize the formula “TGE – That’s Good Enough” to set a ceiling on quality.

 

Then add a bonus rule

1. Find a way to rationalize the slowing growth.

Don Keough, CEO, Coca-Cola

 

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Dreams plus desire to achieve them equals success.

Robbie Romieser

 

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Consider it pure joy, my brothers, whenever you face trials of many kinds, because you know that the testing of your faith develops perseverance.  Perseverance must finish its work so that you may be mature and complete, not lacking anything.

The Bible – James 1:2-4

 

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<>  <>  <>  <>  <>   SIMON SEZ SEMINARS   <>  <>  <>  <>  <>

 

Bradney W. Simon is an accomplished platform speaker; providing Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars. 
For information on having him speak for your organization log onto; http://www.BWSimon.com

 

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         >  >  >  >  JCK Show  -  Las Vegas  <  <  <  <

 

May 31, 2001

Bradney Simon will be speaking at the JCK Las Vegas Show

For more information and to register contact JCK Shows:

 http://jck.expoplanner.com/vegas.html

 

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                    Two Great Seminars for Jewelers

 

=> Run Your Shop Without It Running You

 

This seminar will help jewelers increase profits by operating
an efficient jewelry repair shop.  It contains innovative and
practical information that you can use in your store.  Topics
include: Pricing, Take-In Procedures, Productivity in the Shop,
Employee Development, and Much More.

 

=> Trade Secrets
Tips, Tricks, & Techniques of a Master Jeweler

 

Making and repairing jewelry encompasses only a few basic techniques.  However, there are numerous tricks to use in mastering those techniques. In this interactive seminar you will learn tips, tricks, and techniques on jewelry repair, fabrication, and stone setting from a JA Certified Master Bench Jeweler.

 

              >  >  >  >  Attend Both Seminars  <  <  <  <

Run Your Shop on Friday and Trade Secrets on Saturday

 

Atlanta GA  < >  March 9 & 10, 2001

 

Oakland CA  < >  March 23 & 24, 2001

 

Denver CO  < >  April 6 & 7, 2001

 

Washington DC  < >  May 4 & 5, 2001

 

Seattle WA  < >  August 2001

 

Chicago IL  < > September 2001 

 

For additional information on these seminar go to

http://www.bwsimon.com/SimonSezSeminars/SimonSez.htm

 

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<> <>  <>  <>  <>  <>   GOLD SPONSOR  <>  <>  <>  <>  <>  <>

 

             HAVE YOU INVENTED A NEW PRODUCT
                            OR INNOVATIVE IDEA?

 

Now you can have it evaluated by professional marketing experts.

 

MVI Marketing LTD., THE Market Intelligence Company for the Worldwide Gem and Jewelry Industries, is now offering its unique NEW PRODUCT EVALUATION (NPE) directly to bench jewelers and independent retailers.

 

MVI’s NPE will review your innovation in complete confidence and provide you with a report, honestly evaluating its commercial potential and marketing options.

 

MVI is the only business consulting organization working exclusively in the worldwide gem and jewelry industries. For more information about MVI’s New Product Evaluation visit us at www.mvimarketing.com or email us at info@mvimarketing.com

 

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<>  <>  <>  <>  <>    TRADE SECRETS    <>  <>  <>  <>  <>

 

Pearl Gluing Tweezers

Drill a 1mm hole through one jaw of a pair of self locking tweezers, and glue a leather or felt pad to the inside of the other jaw.  When gluing a pearl, place the pad over the pearl and the other jaw under the mounting to clamp the pearl in place while the glue dries.  The post on earrings can be placed through the hole in the jaw to clamp pearl earrings.

 

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Before beginning to set any stone remove all tools from your lap tray.  Even a diamond can be chipped it if hits a hard steel tool when dropped.

 

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When channel-setting stones into a carved channel, undercut the wall on the outside of the curve.  Then, secure the stones by hammering or bending the inside channel wall over the stones.  Although some mounting designs will not allow you to set in this manner it is more efficient than trying to secure the stones with the metal from the outside wall.  It is easier to stretch metal, than to compress it.  When metal is forced inward in a curve, it tends to buckle, or spring back.  In addition, pressing in on the stones to tighten them may force the stones together causing them to chip.

 

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Use a small ball of steel wool to apply oxidation solutions to large areas.

 

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Grind a bevel on the end of the shank on all your burs.  Then they will be easier to insert into your flex-shaft handpiece when using.

 

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Put lightweight machine oil in a plastic dispenser bottle with a needle tip, the kind made to dispense liquid flux.   This makes it easy to apply the small amount of oil needed on omega backs and other hinges, the slide safety on bangle bracelets, tongue catches, and anywhere else you need a small amount of oil.

 

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To help hold wedding sets together in perfect alignment while soldering together, hold the rings together in your fingers.  Next, place a small amount of super glue between the rings at their tops. Then, clamp the rings as you normally would and solder the back of the shanks together.  If any glue remains when finished soak in acetone to remove.

Note: before performing this procedure make certain your soldering area is well ventilated.  When heated, super glue will emit toxic vapors.

 

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If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it

in an e-mail to mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com

 

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<>  <>  <>  <>  <>       ON THE BENCH    <>  <>  <>  <>  <>  <>

 

Royal Flush

A sign on the side of a plumber’s truck read, “In our business a Flush is better than a Full-House.”  Thankfully this is not the type of ‘flush’ this article is about.  Instead, this article is about a style of setting small stones that has become very popular in recent years.

 

The stones are set down into the metal without beads or prongs.  The tables of the stones are set even with the metal surface in a modified bezel.  This is where the name ‘Flush Set’ is derived from, as the stones are set flush with the metal surface.

 

Flush setting is an advanced setting procedure.  Precise craftsmanship must be executed throughout the process to accomplish the desired look.

 

First, lay out the stones in the desired pattern, and mark the metal in the center of each stone.  Rubbing beeswax over the metal surface and placing the stones table down will help in positioning the stones.

 

Next, drill a hole through the metal using a small drill bit (less than 1/2 the diameter of the stone) on each of your center marks.  The more accurate you drill, the less work you will have to do later.  Then, inspect your work to make certain the holes are all precisely drilled where the center of each stone is to be. 

 

If any holes are off center, you will need to enlarge the hole to center it.  Use a krause bur to cut the side of the hole towards the center of the stone.  Once all the holes are centered, re-drill the hole with a larger drill bit.  Use a drill bit 2/3 the diameter of the stone, and drill through the metal exactly where the center of the stone is to be.

 

Then cut azures on the backside of the metal to cleanup the holes.  See the article in E-BENCH Volume 1 Issue 11, November 2000 for information on cutting azures.
 http://www.BWSimon.com/E-BENCH/Volume1Issue11

 

To cut the seat for the stones begin with a straight side setting bur one size smaller than the diameter of the stone.  For example, if your stone is 2.5 mm in diameter select the 2.3 mm bur.  Cut the seat to a depth that when set the stone’s table will be even with the metal.

 

Then, use a hart bur the same diameter or slightly smaller than the stone.  Carefully undercut the seat to allow the stone to snuggly fit into the seat.  Begin by holding the bur at a 45-degree angle and cut into one side of the seat.  Then with a steady hand, straighten the bur to a 90-degree angle undercutting the opposite side of the seat.  The shank of the bur must be held precisely at a 90-degree angle to the metal surface or else the seat will be cut on an angle and the stone cannot be set straight.  Undercutting the seat in this manner allows you to leave extra metal above the girdle of the stone to use in tightening it.

 

Cutting the seat is the most important part of this setting procedure.  Cut the seat too large and you will not be able to tighten the stone without marring the surface of the metal.  Cut the seat too small and you may chip the stone trying to force it into its seat.

 

Next, lay the stone into its seat and press it into place with a brass pusher.  The stone should fit snuggly in its seat.

 

Using a small highly polished burnisher rub metal down and over the edge of the stone.  Hold the burnisher at a 45-degree angle and rub around the top edge of the hole.  Due to the process of tightening the stone; some setters refer to this setting technique as ‘Rub Down Setting’ instead of ‘Flush Setting’.

 

Some jewelers use a hammer and punch or a hammer handpiece with their flex-shaft to hammer the metal down over the stone.  As a result, this setting technique is sometimes referred to as ‘Hammer Set’.  If you use this technique be certain to hold the punch at a 45 degree angle to the metal surface and tap lightly ONLY on the edge of the metal until it is worked down over the stone.

 

Do not attempt to tighten the stone by hammering on the metal surface forcing metal over the stone.  This causes a dip in the surface surrounding the stone, resulting in an unsatisfactory appearance.  Burnishing the metal over the stone is the preferred method of tightening the stone.  If you cut the seat properly you will not need to use a hammer.

 

This setting procedure should result in the stone set down in the metal with a highly polished beveled rim surrounding the stone.  If you play your hand right, you can trump this technique and deal yourself a truly Royal Flush Set Stone.

 

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 <>  <>  <>  <>  <>    SILVER SPONSORS    <>  <>  <>  <>  <>

 

                          Namano / Southeastern Findings

                        Service to the Manufacturing Jeweler

 

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Platinum, Batteries, Tools, and So Much More.

 

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Call 1-800-282-8285 or visit us on the World Wide Web

   http://www.sefindings.com

 

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                           Jewelry Dealers World Trade Net

                                     http://www.jdwtn.com/ 

 

   <>  <>  <>  Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel  <>  <>  <>

Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the on going discussions, or just read and take in all the advice from many excellent Jewelers from around the world.

Membership includes: Many topical Discussion Channels, 

plus you may buy, sell and trade on the Buy/Sell Channels, Plus Much More.

List B W Simon as your sponsor on the membership application 

and you will receive:

             **  **   30 DAYS FREE MEMBERSHIP  **  **

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Place Your Ad Here

Over 900 Bench Jewelers will see your message, plus it will

remain in our permanent archive at www.BWSimon.com 

For Information and rates on placing an Ad 

Go to: http://bwsimon.com/E-BENCH/E-BenchSponsors.htm 

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<>  <>  <>  <>  <>    Thank You for Reading    <>  <>  <>  <>  <>

Visit us at http://www.BWSimon.com  
A complete archive of back issues of E-BENCH is located there. 

Visit often, as we will be making changes to our site,
adding additional useful information for bench jewelers.

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We do not sell, rent, or otherwise disclose our list of subscribers
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unless you notify us of your new e-mail address.

mailto:E-Bench@BWSimon.com 

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Information provided in this document is provided ‘As Is’ without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied.  This publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative information concerning the subject matter covered.  It is provided with the understanding that the author or publisher is not engaged in rendering legal, accounting, or other professional services.  If legal advice or other expert assistance is required, the services of a competent professional person should be
sought.

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For editorial suggestions, comments, ideas or requests,
please send an E-Mail to Bradney W. Simon
 mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com 

 Copyrighted, 2000, B W Simon.  All rights reserved. 

B W Simon
1066 Hopkins St.
Spartanburg, SC 29307
864-921-0827
 http://www.BWSimon.com 

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