E-BENCH Volume 2 Issue 11

<> <> <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <> <>

A New Method of Learning in a New Millennium

November 2001
Volume 2 Issue 11 circulation over 1,400

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

WE HAVE MOVED

Our offices are now located at:

B W Simon

106 Pinepoint

Spartanburg, SC 29302

<> <> <> <> ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER <> <> <> <>

E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for
Retail Jewelry Store Owners, Shop Managers, Bench Jewelers,
and Anyone Else That Is Interested.

We encourage you to forward this newsletter to anyone that you
think may benefit from it, provided that you forward all of it
without modification and not just portions of it. This document
may NOT be distributed for profit. E-BENCH is a copyrighted
newsletter and all rights are reserved!

We assure you that your email address is kept strictly
confidential and is not shared with anyone for any reason.

E-BENCH is sent to you each month FREE of charge

because of the generous support of our SPONSORS.

Please support them with your purchases.

Thanks – Bradney W. Simon CMBJ, CMP

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> PLATINUM SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>

GESSWEIN & Co, Inc.

Tools, Equipment, and Supplies for Jewelry Manufacturing

Since 1914

> > > Gesswein 2000 Jewelers' Catalog < < <

Gesswein's CD Rom full-color jewelers' catalog features over

10,000 tools, equipment, and supplies for the jewelry

manufacturing industry. In it, you will find everything you need

for making and repairing jewelry.

Don't miss out!

E-Mail Gesswein at info@gesswein.com for your free CD Rom

an absolute must have for finding "The Right Tools"

Or if you prefer, browse through Gesswein's Web Site:

http://www.gesswein.com/

The Right Tools – Are Right Here

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> TABLE OF CONTENTS <> <> <> <> <>

REVERE FINDING TIPS

Useful tips to help you find things in the studio from Revere

Academy of Jewelry Arts

TRADE SECRETS

Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little easier
and more productive from Bradney W. Simon CMBJ and
E-BENCH Readers.

SIMON SEZ SEMINARS

See and hear Bradney W. Simon in person

STEWART'S BENCH TIPS

Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers

AT THE PLATINUM BENCH

Tips for working on Platinum from Platinum Guild International

FEATURE ARTICLE

Learn how to make you shop more profitable, a new technique,

or brush up on basic skills.

PRODUCT REVIEW

See how our staff feels about a tool or educational product.

GERRY’S GEMZ

Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> REVERE FINDING TIPS <> <> <> <> <>

Here are some useful tips to help you find things in the studio
from Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts

http://www.revereacademy.com/

FINDING YOUR CHUCK KEY

By Alan Revere

The snazziest system I have seen is mounting one of those

retractable spring gadgets that hold a ring of keys on your belt

(sometimes known as a Keyback or key caddy), under your

bench top. Instead of keys, attach your chuck key. Now it is

always exactly where you left it.

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> <> GOLD SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> <>

Crafford - LaserStar Technologies designs and manufacturers a

complete range of Nd:YAG pulse laser systems for retail and

manufacturing jewelers. LaserStar® Workstations are 50

watt/class 1 systems ranging in power from 85 – 120 joules and

are ideal for a wide range of jewelry design, manufacturing, and

repair applications in gold, silver, and platinum. Crafford’s team

of highly trained direct sales and applications specialists are

always available to review new applications, share technical

expertise, and provide service and technical support from our

Providence, RI USA manufacturing facility. All LaserStar

Workstations are Made In USA and comply with all FDA (CDRH)

and CE certification guidelines for safety. Four models of the

LaserStar Workstation are available to the jewelry marketplace.

For more information please reference our web site at

www.laserstar.net or www.crafford.com

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> TRADE SECRETS <> <> <> <> <>

Before taking a magnet to your filings, wrap it in a tissue. When

you are finished going through your filings, remove the tissue

wrapping the attracted steel pieces and filings in it. Then toss

the tissue in with your polishing waste. This makes it easier to

remove the metal particles from the magnet.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

To clean items of jewelry with loose stones use a small zip top

plastic bag. Fill the bag half full with cleaning solution from your

ultrasonic cleaner. Then place the jewelry in the bag and close it

trapping as much air as possible in the top half of the bag. Place

the bag in the ultrasonic cleaner. The air in the bag will allow it

to float around in the tank. When clean, remove the jewelry and

carefully pour out the solution. Any stones that may have fallen

out will be in the bag, rather than at the bottom of the ultrasonic

cleaner.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Take an old setting bur and grind the point off. Grind down just

past the edge that cuts the seat for the girdle of the stone. What

you have left is a wheel bur with teeth on the edge only. In

essence, a wheel bur with a safety edge. With this bur you can

trim the inside edge of a bezel or channel setting to remove the

wavy edge left from hammering it over the diamonds. Cut

carefully so as to not remove too much metal. This will leave a

smooth even edge that can be easily polished with a graver.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

To straighten kinks in flat chains such as herringbone, lay the

chain out on a hard surface such as a formica counter top. Then

carefully roll across the kink with a wooden wallpaper seam

roller.

A bad kink may be removed with the following method: Grasp

the chain between your thumb and index finger, placing one

hand on each side of the kink, then slowly rotate your hands in a

circular motion in the direction opposite of the chain twist.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Draw two pieces of wire through the hole of a draw plate at the

same time to create ½ round wire.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

When working with platinum, cleanliness is not only next to

Godliness, it is an essential work habit. Because of the high

temperatures involved in soldering, other metals can easily

contaminate platinum. Platinum can also become contaminated

from other metals on your files, saw blades, emery paper, and

buff wheels. To properly work on platinum you MUST have a

clean work area and have separate tools reserved for platinum

use only.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

To help hold wedding sets together in perfect alignment while

soldering together, hold the rings together in your fingers. Next,

place a small amount of super glue between the rings at their

top. Then, clamp the rings as you normally would and solder the

back of the shanks together. If any glue remains when finished

soak in acetone to remove.

Note: Before performing this procedure make certain your

soldering area is well ventilated. When heated super glue will

emit toxic vapors.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it

in an e-mail to mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com

< < < < < <> > > > > >

If you like Trade Secrets then you’ll love Trade Secret of the Day

a bench tip provided daily Monday through Friday on various

Internet web sites including:

http://www.jewelrydealersnetwork.com/

http://www.polygon.net/

http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/orchid.htm

http://www.groups.yahoo.com/group/Jeweller

If you know of a jewelers’ bulletin board or discussion channel

that you would like to see Trade Secret of the Day posted on,

have the administrator contact me at Brad@BWSimon.com

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

The only man who never makes mistakes is the man who never

does anything.

Eleanor Roosevelt

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> SIMON SEZ SEMINARS <> <> <> <> <>

Bradney W. Simon is an accomplished platform speaker;

providing Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars.
For information on having him speak for your organization log

onto; http://www.BWSimon.com/SimonSez Seminars

< < < < < <> > > > > >

TRADE SECRETS - TUCSON
Tips, Tricks, and Techniques of a Master Jeweler

Tucson AZ

February 7, 2002

This one-day seminar coincides with the Tucson Gem Shows

and is the day before Catalog in Motion.

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> STEWART'S BENCH TIPS <> <> <> <> <>

Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers

http://www.stewartsintlschool.com/

KEEPING TOOLS FROM RUSTING

By Jim Stewart

Spray your steel tools regularly with CRC formula 6-56 multi-

purpose lubricant. It removes rust and protects against

corrosion, then wipe with a clean cloth. You can buy it at Marine

or Electrical supply stores. Don't use WD-40, because the rust

will come back.

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

Large-scaled success today is spelled T E A M W O R K. The

successful teamworker doesn’t wear a chip on his shoulder,

doesn’t look for slights, isn’t constantly on the alert least his

‘dignity’ be insulted. He puts the good of the house – the

company – first. And if the whole prospers, he, as an active,

effective, progressive part, will prosper with it.

B. C. Forbes

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <> <> <> <>

Tips for working on Platinum from Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ

director of technical education for Platinum Guild International

http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com/

SOLDERING VS WELDING PLATINUM

Soldering is usually required when you are working on a multi-

metal piece, such as 18K and Platinum combination. The metal

with the lowest melting point dictates the method used. When

installing minor components to Platinum, such as findings,

soldering is preferred. Whenever you are sizing a ring and need

to use solder, use a 1700 seamless solder to do the task. Lower

temperature solders tend to show a seam.

Sizing a Platinum ring is normally done with the welding method,

as long as there are no stones nearby and the ring is made of

Platinum.

The exception here is Pt/Co, as cobalt oxidizes. To size a Pt/Co

ring, the 1700 seamless solder is recommended.

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> <> GOLD SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> <>

If You Like E-Bench

YOU WILL LOVE BENCH MAGAZINE

A New Print Magazine For Bench Jewelers

BENCH Magazine, a new quarterly publication from B W Simon,

is Written BY Bench Jewelers FOR Bench Jewelers. Each issue

is filled with high-quality instructional articles by working jewelers

who are masters of their craft; enhanced by line drawings, color

renderings, or photographs.

From Basic Techniques to Advanced Applications -
From Centuries Old Procedures to the Latest in Technological

Advancements, BENCH Magazine provides accurate informative

instruction from Professional Bench Jewelers. In addition, each

issue contains a Bench Tip section where you can learn tricks of

the trade from the magazine staff and jewelers around the world.

Subscriptions are free to jewelers in the USA and Canada,

and only $40 per year for overseas delivery.

To subscribe go to http://www.BWSimon.com/BENCH

BENCH and E-BENCH - Training Jewelers Worldwide

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> FEATURE ARTICLE <> <> <> <> <>

LASTING FOREVER

By Bradney W. Simon CMBJ

A James Bond movie in 1971 gave the jewelry industry quite a

boost. Savvy jewelers around the country picked-up on the

title of the movie and used it as a phrase to sell more diamonds.

Even today, the theme song from that film is used as background

music for many jewelry store commercials.

As good as a promotion of diamond jewelry this is, it has

developed a misunderstanding among many customers. Maybe

‘Diamonds Are Forever’, but the prongs that hold them are not.

As your customers wear their jewelry, the metal holding the

stones slowly wears away. This puts the security of the stones

in jeopardy. A simple procedure in the shop can remedy this.

Simple that is if certain precautions are followed.

Darn It, It’s a Garnet

We have all heard that Old Glory is the standard for retipping.

That is the colors of the American flag; red, white, and blue, are

the color of stones that you can retip on. However, those colors

apply ONLY to Ruby, Diamond, and Sapphire. There are many

red and blue stones, and imitation diamonds, which will not take

the heat of retipping.

I will never forget one incident that took place during the first

year I worked on the bench. I received a tennis bracelet

(although back then they were not called this) with all red stones.

The instructions were to retip all prongs. To my dismay all the

stones cracked and shattered. I showed the bracelet to the store

manager who informed me the stones were garnet not ruby. The

store had to replace all the stones and I learned a new saying;

Old Glory may be my guide, but Darn It It’s A Garnet.

Caution: Over the past several years, new gemstone

enhancements have been developed. Although diamonds,

sapphires, and rubies will withstand the heat from torch

soldering, the enhancements will not survive the high

temperatures. Diamond enhancements are easy to detect in the

shop, however sapphires and rubies are not. Because of this, it

is advisable to either remove large expensive sapphires and

rubies from their mountings before rebuilding the prongs or to

use a Laser Welder to retip with.

Don’t It Just Burn You

Although Diamonds will withstand heat, it is possible for them to

burn. In order to burn, diamonds need two things, heat and

oxygen.

Diamonds burn in pure oxygen at about 1320 degrees

Fahrenheit. In air (which is about 20% oxygen), the temperature

raises to around 1560 F. Depending on who makes your solder,

14k solders melt between 1200 & 1500 degrees. Easy solders

are at the low end and hard at the upper end. Most 18k solders

are in this range, however some melt in the 1500's and 19k white

weld often exceed 1600 degrees. Although most solders melt at

a temperature below the burning point of diamonds the heat from

the torch will often heat the diamond beyond the temperature at

which it will burn.

Because of this, you must coat the diamond with boric acid. To

do this mix boric acid powder with denatured alcohol. Dip the

jewelry in this mixture and light it. As the alcohol burns, a

coating of boric acid powder remains. When this is heated, the

powder melts forming a glassy coating over the diamond and

jewelry. This seals out oxygen allowing you to heat it to higher

temperatures.

When heating a stone to retip on, be certain the glassy coating of

boric acid completely covers the stone. If there is a "hole" in the

glassy coating, the diamond can burn in that spot. In addition, if

the jewelry is not completely clean before beginning, problems

may develop. For example, if dirt is around a prong it will keep

the boric acid from contacting the diamond at that place. As the

temperature rises, the dirt burns away exposing the diamond,

subjecting it to possible burning.

Hot Rocks

Always allow all stones to cool slowly after retipping. Never

quench a hot stone. The rapid cooling can cause a stone to

crack especially a stone with inclusions. Do not soak the boric

acid off the jewelry until you can pick the stone up with your

fingers. In addition, remember that with a large stone the inside

of the stone will cool slower than the surface. Be certain the

stone is completely cool before soaking.

Getting to the Point

Be careful when retipping any stone with points such as pear,

marquise, and princess shape stones. The thin points of the

stone will heat up much quicker than the heaver body of the

stone. This difference in temperature can cause the stone to

crack. For this reason gradually heat the entire stone before

concentrating the heat on the point prong.

In addition, metal and stones expand and contract by different

amounts when heated and cooled. A problem develops during

retipping if solder is allowed to flow completely around the point

of a stone. The solder will contract as it cools squeezing the

point. This may cause it to break off.

The best method to retip a stone with a point is to make a cap in

the shape of the prong. Then with a minimum of solder, attach

the cap to the top of the prong. Do not allow solder to flow under

the stone, completely encircling the stone point. If the prong is

worn to the place that it needs more work than just a cap, it is

best to remove the stone and replace the crown or prong.

Easy Money

Frequently a ring brought into the store for another type of repair

also needs prongs retipped. Prong retipping is probably the

most under-recommended repair, and one of the most important.

Whenever you take-in jewelry with stones, examine the prongs; if

they are thin, broken, or missing, recommend retipping in

addition to the other repairs. Any prong worn to less than one-

fourth the original thickness must be retipped or the security of

the stone is in jeopardy.

Inform the customer the possible consequences of worn prongs,

and encourage them to examine the prongs under magnification.

If the customer declines retipping after being informed of worn

prongs, state on the envelope the condition of the prongs, the

customer’s desires, and that you will not be responsible if the

stone is lost. Not only are shop profits increased by the

additional work, but also store liability from stones falling out

after the customer picks up their jewelry is reduced substantially.

You don’t need to be 007 to figure out if a prong needs to be

retipped, but if you keep your customers prongs in good shape

their Diamonds may last Forever in their jewelry.

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

I do the very best I know how – the very best I can; and I mean

to keep on doing so until the end.

Abraham Lincoln

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> PRODUCT REVIEW <> <> <> <> <>

REVERE ON GOLDSMITHING

Project 1 - Japanese Pattern Earrings
by Alan Revere

“Making jewelry is a lot like building a house, you have to make

sure you have a good foundation” states Alan Revere as he

helps you build a solid foundation of bench skills in this excellent

training video. He goes on to say, “When you make a piece of

jewelry, the most important step is the one you’re doing. If you

make a mistake in the beginning things will never get better.”

It is with this meticulous attention to details that Alan Revere

teaches the fundamental skills of sawing and filing while creating

a pair of silver earrings. Although directed to the apprentice

jeweler, advanced jewelers should not dismiss this training video

as simplistic. ‘Revere On Goldsmithing’ provides sound,

systematic instruction necessary for the beginning jeweler and a

wonderful refresher for more experienced jewelers.

The majority of this training video is a masterful demonstration of

the versatility of the jeweler’s saw. Demonstrated are the

techniques of piercing, filing, scribing lines, and cutting off stock,

all done with the jeweler’s saw. Tips given include minimizing

sawblade breakage, and achieving precision workmanship.

File selection is covered in detail with consideration given to the

file’s shape and coarseness of cut. Techniques demonstrated

include filing both convex and concave surfaces as well as filing

flat surfaces. Tips are given on reaching small hard to file areas

and filing into corners.

In addition to these two fundamental skills, Revere also

demonstrates layout, drilling, annealing, hardening wire, forming,

dapping, bending wire, sanding, polishing, and applying finishes.

Numerous tips are given throughout the video on these skills as

well as productivity tips, and a trick to making matching earrings.

Safety and ergonomic issues are also covered.

‘Revere On Goldsmithing Project 1-- Japanese Pattern Earrings’

is an excellent training video on basic techniques and would be a

valuable addition to any jeweler’s library. It is available from

Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts

http://www.revereacademy.com/

or Rio Grande http://www.riogrande.com/

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

A cheerful heart is good medicine

Proverbs 17:22

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> GERRY’S GEMZ <> <> <> <> <>

Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting

http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com/index.html

by Gerald N. Lewy

Before placing a ring on a ring mandrel, take the few extra

moments and check with a loupe for the culet of any stones. If

any culet protrudes into the finger hole, slide the ring onto a

grooved mandrel.

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> SILVER SPONSORS <> <> <> <> <>

Namano / Southeastern Findings

Service to the Manufacturing Jeweler

We are Findings, Diamonds, Wedding Bands, Jewelry Boxes,

Platinum, Batteries, Tools, and So Much More.

Greater Selection - Expanded Inventory - No Minimum Order

Call 1-800-282-8285 or visit us on the World Wide Web

http://www.sefindings.com

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Jewelry Dealers World Trade Network

http://www.JewelryDealersNetwork.com/

<> <> <> Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel <> <> <>

Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the on going

discussions, or just read and take in all the advice from many

Excellent Jewelers from around the world.

Membership includes: Many topical Discussion Channels,

Plus you may buy, sell and trade on the Buy/Sell Channels, Plus

Much More.

List B W Simon as your sponsor on the membership application

and you will receive:

** ** 30 DAYS FREE MEMBERSHIP ** **

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Place Your Ad Here

Over 1,400 Bench Jewelers will see your message, plus it will

remain in our permanent archive at www.BWSimon.com

For Information and rates on placing an Ad Go to:

http://bwsimon.com/E-BENCH/E-BenchSponsors.htm

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> Thank You for Reading <> <> <> <> <>

We are on the World Wide Web.
Visit us at http://www.BWSimon.com

A complete archive of back issues of E-BENCH is located there.

Visit often, as we will be making changes to our site,
adding additional useful information for bench jewelers.

<> <> <> SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION <> <> <>

We value every subscriber and respect your privacy.

We do not sell, rent, or otherwise disclose our list of subscribers
for any reason. Your Email Address Is Kept Strictly Confidential.

To subscribe, send an E-Mail with Subscribe as the subject

mailto:E-BENCH@BWSimon.com?subject=Subscribe

If you do not wish to continue receiving this newsletter, send an
E-Mail with Unsubscribe as the subject

mailto:E-BENCH@BWSimon.com?subject=Unsubscribe

If you change your e-mail address, PLEASE let us know. Each
month we have several newsletters returned to us because the
e-mail address is no longer in service. We have no alternative
method of contacting you, and cannot send you future issues
unless you notify us of your new e-mail address.

mailto:E-Bench@BWSimon.com

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Information provided in this document is provided ‘As Is’ without
warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied. This
publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative
information concerning the subject matter covered. It is provided
with the understanding that the author or publisher is not
engaged in rendering legal, accounting, or other professional
services. If legal advice or other expert assistance is required,
the services of a competent professional person should be
sought.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

For editorial suggestions, comments, ideas or requests,
please send an E-Mail to Bradney W. Simon
mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com

B W Simon
106 Pinepoint
Spartanburg, SC 2930
864-921-0827
http://www.BWSimon.com

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Back to E-BENCH