<> <> <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <> <>
A New Method of Learning in a New Millennium
March 2001
Volume 2 Issue 3
circulation over 1,000
=================================================
<> <> <> <> ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER <> <> <> <>
E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for
Retail Jewelry Store
Owners, Shop Managers, Bench Jewelers,
and Anyone Else That Is
Interested.
We encourage you to forward this newsletter to anyone that
you
think may benefit from it, provided that you forward all of it
without
modification and not just portions of it.
This document
may NOT be distributed for profit. E-BENCH is a copyrighted
newsletter
and all rights are reserved!
We assure you that your email address is kept
strictly
confidential and is not shared with anyone for any reason.
E-BENCH is sent to you each month FREE of charge because of
the generous support of our SPONSORS. Please support them
with your
purchases.
Thanks – Bradney W. Simon CMBJ, CMP
=================================================
<> <> <> <> <> PLATINUM SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>
GESSWEIN & Co, Inc.
Tools, Equipment, and Supplies for Jewelry Manufacturing
Since 1914
> > > Gesswein 2000 Jewelers' Catalog < < <
Gesswein's 432-Page full-color jewelers' catalog features
over
10,000 tools, equipment, and supplies for the jewelry
manufacturing industry. In it you'll find everything you need for
making and repairing jewelry.
Don't miss out!
E-Mail Gesswein at info@gesswein.com for your free catalog—
an absolute must have for finding "The Right Tools"
Or if you prefer, browse through Gesswein's Web Site:
The Right Tools – Are Right Here
=================================================
BENCH - The Magazine
A new print magazine devoted exclusively for bench jewelers is
coming soon from B W Simon.
Watch future issues of E-BENCH for more information.
BENCH and E-BENCH - Training Jewelers Worldwide.
=================================================
<> <> <> <> <> TABLE OF CONTENTS <> <> <> <> <>
RUN YOUR SHOP WITHOUT IT RUNNING YOU
A feature article on shop management issues
QUOTES WORTH RE-QUOTING
Motivational insights from some of the best
SIMON SEZ
See and hear Bradney W. Simon in person
TRADE SECRETS
Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little
easier
and more productive
ON THE BENCH
Learn a new technique or brush up on basic skills with
this
feature article.
=================================================
<> <> RUN YOUR SHOP WITHOUT IT RUNNING YOU <> <>
How much is that Doggie in the Window?
Part 1
How much is that doggie in the window?
The one with the
waggly tail.
How much is that doggie in the window?
I do hope that
doggie's for sale.
Ever since retail began people have wondered how to price their
products and services. Pricing decisions are perhaps the single
largest determining factor as to whether or not a company makes
a profit and how much of a profit it will make. If you set your
prices too low, you will end up with a loss. If you set your prices
too high, customers will go elsewhere.
Services, such as jewelry repair can be even more difficult to
price than products. Services are non-tangible; you cannot
touch or hold them. You can see, hold, and feel a ring but you
cannot see, hold, or feel a ring sizing. This creates pricing
difficulties as you do not have tangible things like stones or
metal to base a price on. Rather than being able to see
advantages such as the number or size of stones, customers
have to depend on such ambiguous characteristics as reputation
or image of the person providing the service.
Services are also non-transferable. A ring sizing cannot be
returned. You cannot transfer a ring sizing to another ring, nor
give it away or hand it down to another person. Services are
also non-storable. You cannot stock up on ring sizings during
the slower summer months and have them available for the rush
during the Christmas season.
In addition, with the services you perform you do not have a
manufacture’s cost or suggested retail price to work with, as you
do with jewelry and watch products. This all leads to problems
when we try to set prices for our jewelry repair services.
In the jewelry industry there are two mythsabout setting repair
prices that flourish among retailers. This further complicates the
already difficult process of setting repair prices. The first myth is
setting your prices based on what others charge.
There is a story of a man who worked in a factory. He lived on
the opposite side of town from the factory and every day he
would walk through town on his way to work. Each morning as
he passed though the downtown shopping area he would stop in
front of the finest jewelry store and stare in the front window. He
would gaze through the window for a moment, look at his watch,
and then continue to work.
The storeowner grew so perplexed by this man’s behavior that
one day he went outside to meet this man. The jeweler said that
everyday he saw him staring though his window and he was
curious as to what he was looking at. The man told the
storeowner that it was his job to blow the noon whistle everyday
at the factory, and he took his job very seriously. So everyday
he would stop in front of the store because it was the finest
jewelry store in town. He would look through the window at the
store’s clock and check his watch to make certain his watch was
correct. This way he was assured that he would blow the noon
whistle precisely at 12 o’clock noon.
The storeowner told the man he admired his dedication to his
job. “In fact,” the storeowner said, “you are so accurate in
performing your job, that for years we have set our store’s clock
by the factory’s noon whistle.”
After years of carrying out this ritual, is there any way that either
of them had a clue as to what the correct time really was?
For years, jewelry store owners have set their prices for jewelry
repair by calling all the stores in town and base it on what the
other stores charge. If you use this method to set prices, you are
setting your prices based on stores who have most likely set
their prices based on what you had charged in the past. After
years of carrying out this ritual, is there any way that any jeweler
has a clue as to what the correct price should be for jewelry
repairs?
You cannot set your prices correctly in your store just by calling
the other stores in town and setting your prices accordingly.
The second myth to setting repair prices is to set your prices
based solely on your cost.
A real problem develops when we set our prices based solely on
our cost. At the end of the year we evaluate our jeweler’s
performance and based on the shop’s income we determine if
we can afford to give our jewelers a raise. Now, if we set our
prices based on what we pay our jewelers, and pay our jewelers
based on what we collect from the prices we set, is there any
way either can be correct.
In addition, isn’t it obvious that if our income (the prices we
charge) is based on what we pay our jeweler there will never be
extra money to give our jewelers a raise. Commissions do not
solve this problem either. If you set your price, and the
commission the jeweler receives, based on how long it should
take the jeweler to perform the work; the only way for them to
make more money is to do the work faster than they should be
doing it.
Unless we set our prices based on the value of the services we
provide; we will never have the money to pay the kind of wages
that reflect the value of our jeweler’s labor. When we as an
industry start charging prices based on the value of the service
we provide, not only will the stores’ profits increase, but also we
will finally be able to provide the wages to our jewelers
comparable with the wages paid in other skilled professions.
When you determine the value of your services you will then
know how much to price that “doggie in the window”. Next
month we will look at methods to help you determine what your
customers believe the value of your repair services to be.
=================================================
<> <> <> <> <> <> GOLD SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> <>
Impact Specialties
Introducing our new form filling and repair management
software
> > > Impact Repairware Software < < <
We have developed this new software to be used in conjunction
with our laser repair envelopes, cut sheets and cards. This
software will enable jewelers to computerize their process.
Impact Repairware features repair location tracking, parts and
inventory database, customer database, special occasion
tracking and a variety of reports. It is available in single user or
multi user and features a watch repair and jewelry repair form.
Impact Repairware can be used to provide estimates, appraisals
and receipts.
For more information or to receive a FREE trial disk, visit us at
http://www.isiprint.com or call Impact at 800 – 543 – 4264
Impact – For All Your Jewelry Store Form Needs
=================================================
<> <> <> <> QUOTES WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>
Sometimes the difference between loving your job and hating
your job is all in your attitude.
Zig Ziglar
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Your destiny is not a matter of chance: it is a matter of chose.
Many people have the right aims in life – they just never get
around to pulling the trigger. When you determine what you
want, you have made the most important decision in your life.
You have to know what you want in order to attain it.
John Mason
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
I’m a survivor – being a survivor doesn’t mean you have to be
made out of steel. And it doesn’t mean you have to be ruthless.
It means you have to be basically on your own side and want to
win.
Linda Ronstadt
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Over the years, many executives have said to me with pride:
“Boy, I worked so hard last year that I didn’t take any vacation.”
I always feel like responding: “You dummy. You mean to tell me
that you can take responsibility for an $80 million project and you
can’t plan two weeks out of the year to have some fun?”
Lee Iacocca
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Forget about likes and dislikes. They are of no consequence.
Just do what must be done. This may not be happiness, but it is
greatness.
George Bernard Shaw
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
And I will do whatever you ask in my name, so that the Son may
bring glory to the Father. You may ask me for anything in my
name, and I will do it.
John 14: 13 &14
=================================================
<> <> <> <> <> Product Review <> <> <> <> <>
Bezel & Flush Setting
With Diamonds and Colored Stones
Training Videos
By Blaine Lewis
This video is advertised as a “Classroom in a Box” and that is
exactly what it is. It comes with two training videos, two practice
mountings, stones to set, a bezel punch, tool templates so that
you can make the tools demonstrated, and a piece of candy (a
layout tip is demonstrated using the candy; however before I got
to that place in the video I had eaten the candy).
Blaine Lewis, founder of the New Approach School for Jewelers
presents in these videos a revolutionary training system utilizing
ultra-high magnification. Then, just when you begin to think you
understand the technique, Blaine integrates stunning 3-D
computer animation demonstrating the setting techniques. This
combination of ultra-high magnification and 3-D computer
animation allows the learner to fully comprehend what is
transpiring during the setting process.
Through viewing these videos and practicing the techniques
taught you will learn systematic methods for multiple layout
procedures, proper bearing cutting, bezel and flush setting
techniques for round and fancy shaped stones, enhanced
tightening methods, tool making, clean up tips and much more.
Blaine Lewis teaches a unique method of flush setting softer
colored stones utilizing an innovative tool which he not only
demonstrates how to make, but also provides a template
assisting you in making this tool for your own use.
After studying this video training system and practicing the
techniques, any jewelers can flush set soft colored stones
without fear of damaging the stone. This is without a doubt the
best training video available on the subject of flush & bezel
setting gemstones. Blaine Lewis’ easy-to-follow detailed
instruction is Fantastic. The only recommendation I can offer to
improve this training package is to include more candy!
For additional information go to: http://www.jewelryvideos.com/
Bradney W. Simon, CMBJ
=================================================
<> <> <> <> <> SIMON SEZ SEMINARS <> <> <> <> <>
Bradney W. Simon is an accomplished platform speaker;
providing Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars.
For information on having him speak
for your organization log
onto; http://www.BWSimon.com
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> > > > JCK Show - Las Vegas < < < <
May 31, 2001
Bradney Simon will be speaking at the JCK Las Vegas Show
For more information and to register contact JCK Shows:
http://jck.expoplanner.com/vegas.html
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> > > > IJO Conference < < < <
August 4 - 8, 2001
Bradney Simon will conduct seminars and Bench Demonstrations
at the Independent Jewelers
Organization Show in Salt Lake City.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> > > > New Hampshire Jewelers Association < < < <
October 21, 2001
Bradney Simon will be presenting Trade Secrets – Tips Tricks
and Techniques of a Master Jeweler.
For more information call Paul Richter 603-437-2655
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> > > > Two Great Seminars for Jewelers < < < <
=> Run Your Shop Without It Running You
This seminar will help jewelers increase profits by
operating
an efficient jewelry repair shop. It contains innovative and
practical
information that you can use in your store. Topics
include: Pricing, Take-In
Procedures, Productivity in the Shop,
Employee Development, and Much
More.
=> Trade Secrets
Tips, Tricks, & Techniques of a
Master Jeweler
Making and repairing jewelry encompasses only a few basic
techniques. However, there are numerous tricks to use in
mastering those techniques. In this interactive seminar you will
learn tips, tricks, and techniques on jewelry repair, fabrication,
and stone setting from a JA Certified Master Bench Jeweler.
> > > > Attend Both Seminars < < < <
Run Your Shop on Friday and Trade Secrets on Saturday
Oakland CA < > March 30 & 31, 2001
There is still time for you to attend. For information go to:
http://www.bwsimon.com/SimonSezSeminars/Oakland.htm
Denver CO < > April 6 & 7, 2001
There is still time for you to attend. For information go to:
http://www.bwsimon.com/SimonSezSeminars/Denver.htm
Washington DC < > May 4 & 5, 2001
Seattle WA < > September 7 & 8, 2001
Chicago IL < > September 28 & 29, 2001
For additional information on these seminars or to register go to
http://www.bwsimon.com/SimonSezSeminars/SimonSez.htm
=================================================
<> <> <> <> <> <> GOLD SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> <>
HAVE YOU INVENTED A NEW PRODUCT
OR INNOVATIVE
IDEA?
Now you can have it evaluated by professional marketing
experts.
MVI Marketing LTD., THE Market Intelligence Company for the
Worldwide Gem and Jewelry Industries, is now offering its
unique NEW PRODUCT EVALUATION (NPE) directly to bench
jewelers and independent retailers.
MVI’s NPE will review your innovation in complete confidence
and provide you with a report, honestly evaluating its commercial
potential and marketing options.
MVI is the only business consulting organization working
exclusively in the worldwide gem and jewelry industries. For
more information about MVI’s New Product Evaluation visit us at
www.mvimarketing.com or email us at info@mvimarketing.com
=================================================
<> <> <> <> <> TRADE SECRETS <> <> <> <> <>
The difference in one size is 1/10 of an inch or 2.54 millimeters.
For simplicity 2.5 millimeters is used in actual practice. If a ring
is to be sized up or down one size 2.5 mm is either added or
removed from the shank.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Anneal wedding bands prior to setting stones into them. Die
struck seamless bands are work hardened during the
manufacturing process. The hardened gold is difficult to push
over a stone when channel, bead, or flush setting. Annealing the
band before you begin will make setting much easier.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Paint whiteout over engraving on the inside of rings before sizing
or soldering wedding sets together. This will keep the solder
from flowing over the engraving.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Grind a knife-edge on the end of an equaling needle file. Then it
will be easier to insert into a joint to true it up before soldering.
This works particularly well on truing up the seam in a ring shank
when sizing.
Another method to true a seam before soldering is to saw
through the seam with a saw blade, trimming a little metal from
each side of the seam.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
You should always take great care when filing that you do not
remove too much metal. It is impossible to replace the metal
removed. When filing to remove excess solder, often the
mistake is made of filing too much resulting in thinning the metal.
Stop filing when the outline of the solder is just barely visible.
Sanding to prepare the metal for polishing will remove the
remaining solder. If you continue to file until all evidence of the
solder is removed the sanded metal will be thinned more than
necessary.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
On heavy prongs, use a small ball bur to carve a hollow area on
the inside on the prong. This will make it easier to bend over
fragile stones.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
When setting colored stones with an uneven pavilion in clusters
or as side stones, set the thicker portion to the outside of the
mounting where it will receive more abuse. If the stone is set
with the thinner edge to the outside it may be chipped while
wearing.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it
in an e-mail to mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com
=================================================
<> <> <> <> <> <> GOLD SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> <>
CEIA USA
CEIA specializes in the manufacture of Ultrasonic Cleaning
Machines and Medium Frequency Induction Melters.
CEIA Ultrasonics are designed using the latest technologies.
The high efficiency of the generator and the absence of moving
mechanical parts guarantee the machine an extremely long
lifetime. All functions are microprocessor controlled which allows
for adjustable cavitation, temperature and time.
Call us for a free trial.
CEIA Induction melters have achieved widespread recognition in
the field of precious metal casting. All functions of the furnaces
are microcomputer controlled. Digitally adjustable power gives
the possibility to optimize melting times. CEIA melters offer
speed of melting, purity of the alloy and very low cooling water
consumption.
CEIA USA
Tel: 609-631-8802
Email: jbruns@ceia-usa.com Web Page http://www.ceia.net
=================================================
<> <> <> <> <> ON THE BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <>
Fit to be Sized
Before sizing any ring examine it carefully and compare it to the
information on the job envelope. If you see any damage or
potential problems that are not marked clearly on the envelope,
inform the store manager or sales clerk who took in the job so
that they can notify the customer. It is extremely important that
you inform them now, before any work is performed, rather than
wait until later to inform them.
Measure the thickness and width of the ring shank and record
these measurements on the job envelope. Having these
measurements may save you from doing a half-shank later if the
customer complains that you thinned the shank too much during
sizing.
While examining the ring, measure the ring’s current size and
determine if you need to size it up or down. Divide your sizing
jobs into four groups: rings to be sized down, rings to hammer
up, rings to size up, and wedding bands to stretch. By
organizing your ring sizings in this manner and working on all the
rings in each group togetheryou will increase your productivity.
Always anneal wedding bands prior to stretching or compressing
with a ring stretcher. Die struck seamless bands are work
hardened during the manufacturing process. This hardened gold
is difficult to stretch or compress. Annealing the band before you
begin will reduce the amount of physical force that you will need
to apply to accomplish the task. A ring stretcher is not designed
to double as a nautilus machine. In addition, if the metal is not
annealed the stretching or compressing process may cause the
metal to crack.
To stretch a wedding band that is
larger than your ring stretcher
mandrel, slip a copper sleeve over
the mandrel and place the
ring over the sleeve. The mandrel will press out on the copper
sleeve, which in turn will press out
on the wedding band
stretching it to a larger size. To make the sleeve purchase a 3/4
inch copper pipe coupling from a
plumbing supply store. Then
using a hacksaw, cut slits down the
length of the coupling. Make
four to six cuts to line up with the
slits on the mandrel on your
stretcher. Make all the cuts from one end and cut
3/4 of the
length of the coupling. This will allow it to expand easier and
will
make it easier to remove the ring
when finished.
Sizing heavy gent’s rings
creates additional problems because of
the metal thickness in the
shank. Straightening the ring on a
ring
mandrel can be particularly
challenging. Using a Lead-filled
weighted rawhide mallet or a
dead-blow mallet will provide the
extra force needed to make this job
easier. In addition, one of
these mallets can be used to force
the ring down on a ring
mandrel when opening a shank up after
sawing through the
shank.
Heavy duty “Bow Pliers” available from most jewelry tool
suppliers are indispensable in closing the gap in down sizing. Be
certain to cover the jaws with leather or copper to avoid marring
the outside of the ring. Sometimes it is necessary to use a
rawhide mallet to hammer the shank into position. A bench
mounted ring shank bender is a welcome asset in shaping
pieces for up sizing and half-shanks.
When soldering heavy gents rings avoid the temptation to use a
pick to smear the solder around the joint. This will result in a
weak solder joint, known as a cold solder joint, as the solder
flowed only at the surface and not through the seam. Make
certain you have a tight fitting seam and apply solder to only one
side of the joint. Then, with the heat of your torch pull the solder
through the seam to the other side.
For highest
productivity in the shop, take all the rings to be sized
down
together. Then one at a time mark
the back of the shank
for the
amount of gold to be removed from each shank. When all
the rings are
marked, then pick up your saw. Saw
through all the
rings without
putting down the saw.
When finished
sawing, pick up your ring bending pliers and bend
all the
shanks closed. Make sure there is
no visible gap; hold
the ring up
to a light to see that there is a precise fit. Group rings
on your bench
as to metal content and color, 14k yellow
together, 14k
white together, 18k yellow, etc.
Then place
enough solder
on your soldering pad to solder all of the rings
closed. Make a small pile of solder for each
metal type.
Then begin
the soldering process. Hold the
torch in one hand
and with the
other hand pick up a ring with locking tweezers;
dip the ring
in boric acid and alcohol. Set the
ring down on
your
soldering pad and light it with your torch. Arrange several
rings across
your soldering pad in this manner.
Then, with the
solder pick
in your free hand, pick up the solder and solder the
ring shanks
closed.
Place the
rings aside on your soldering pad to cool, and pick up
another group
of rings as before. As the alcohol
is burning off,
pick up the
solder with a pick, and solder the shanks of this
group. Lay them aside to cool, and move on to
the next group.
With this
process, you can solder all the rings closed without
ever placing
the torch down. You light the torch
once and do not
have to
re-light it for each separate job. When you are finished
soldering all
the rings, turn your torch off.
Place the cooled rings
in the pickle
and begin to work on the rings that go up.
Size the up
sizings in a similar manner. When
they are all
soldered,
place them in the pickle and take out the rings you
sized
down. Rinse and dry them off and
begin to file with your
half-round
ring file. File each ring on the
inside so that it is
smooth. File off excess solder only on the
inside of the rings at
this
time.
Then lay the
file down and pick up the ring mandrel and mallet.
Taking one
ring at a time, slide it onto the ring mandrel and
straighten it
out; check to make certain you have reached the
right
size. After you have straightened
each ring, pick up your
file
again. File the sides and back of
the shank, removing the
excess solder
and hammer marks on the outside of all the rings.
When you have
finished filing each ring, take the rings that you
sized up out
of the pickle rinse and dry them off.
Repeat the
filing / straightening
process. File the inside of the
rings first,
then straighten each ring and then
file the outsides of the rings.
When all
rings to be sized are filed, sand all of the shanks,
polish, and
place them in the cleaner.
If you only
have a few rings to size you can size the down sizings
and up
sizings together. Solder the piece
on one side of the up
sizings. While they cool, solder the down
sizings. Then bend
and solder
the second side of the up sizes.
=================================================
<> <> <> <> <> SILVER SPONSORS <> <> <> <> <>
Namano / Southeastern Findings
Service to the Manufacturing Jeweler
We are Findings, Diamonds, Wedding Bands, Jewelry Boxes,
Platinum, Batteries, Tools, and So Much More.
Greater Selection - Expanded Inventory - No Minimum Order
Call 1-800-282-8285 or visit us on the World Wide Web
http://www.sefindings.com
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Jewelry Dealers World Trade Net
<> <> <> Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel <> <> <>
Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the on going
discussions, or just read and take in all the advice from many
excellent Jewelers from around the world.
Membership includes: Many topical Discussion Channels,
Plus you may buy, sell and trade on the Buy/Sell Channels, Plus
Much More.
List B W Simon as your sponsor on the membership application
and you will receive:
** ** 30 DAYS FREE MEMBERSHIP ** **
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Place Your Ad Here
Over 1,000 Bench Jewelers will see your message, plus it will
remain in our permanent archive at www.BWSimon.com
For Information and rates on placing an Ad
Go to: http://bwsimon.com/E-BENCH/E-BenchSponsors.htm
=================================================
<> <> <> <> <> Thank You for Reading <> <> <> <> <>
We are now on the World Wide Web.
Visit us at http://www.BWSimon.com
A complete archive of back issues of E-BENCH is located there.
Visit often, as we will be making changes to our site,
adding
additional useful information for bench jewelers.
<> <> <> SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION <> <> <>
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+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Information provided in this document is provided ‘As Is’
without
warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied. This
publication is designed to
provide accurate and authoritative
information concerning the subject matter
covered. It is provided
with the
understanding that the author or publisher is not
engaged in rendering legal,
accounting, or other professional
services. If legal advice or other expert
assistance is required,
the services of a competent professional person
should be
sought.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
For editorial suggestions, comments, ideas or
requests,
please send an E-Mail to Bradney W. Simon
mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com
Copyrighted, 2001, B W Simon. All rights reserved.
B W Simon
1066 Hopkins St.
Spartanburg, SC
29307
864-921-0827
http://www.BWSimon.com
<> <> <> <> <> <> <> <> <> <> <> <> <> <> <> <> <>