E-BENCH Volume 2 Issue 4

<> <> <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <> <>

A New Method of Learning in a New Millennium

April 2001
Volume 2 Issue 4 circulation over 1,000

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<> <> <> <> ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER <> <> <> <>

E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for
Retail Jewelry Store Owners, Shop Managers, Bench Jewelers,
and Anyone Else That Is Interested.

We encourage you to forward this newsletter to anyone that you
think may benefit from it, provided that you forward all of it
without modification and not just portions of it. This document
may NOT be distributed for profit. E-BENCH is a copyrighted
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Please support them with your purchases.

Thanks – Bradney W. Simon CMBJ, CMP

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an absolute must have for finding "The Right Tools"

Or if you prefer, browse through Gesswein's Web Site:

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<> <> <> <> <> TABLE OF CONTENTS <> <> <> <> <>

RUN YOUR SHOP WITHOUT IT RUNNING YOU

A feature article on shop management issues

QUOTES WORTH RE-QUOTING

Motivational insights from some of the best

SIMON SEZ

See and hear Bradney W. Simon in person

REVERE FINDING TIPS

This new column contains useful tips to help you find things in

the studio from Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts

TRADE SECRETS

Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little easier
and more productive

ON THE BENCH

Learn a new technique or brush up on basic skills with this
feature article.

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Trade Secrets – A Simon Sez Seminar

Learn Bench Tips and Tricks from a Master Jeweler

“No matter how much one knows it is always enlightening and

stimulating to sit back and listen to a Master share his own

personal tips. This is an excellent presentation.”
Alan Revere – Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts

To see what others are saying about this seminar go to:

http://www.bwsimon.com/Testimonials/TradeSecretsSeminar.htm

See the Simon Sez section of this newsletter
for information on Dates and Locations this seminar is offered.

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<> <> RUN YOUR SHOP WITHOUT IT RUNNING YOU <> <>

How Much is That Doggie in the Window?

Part 2

Last month we looked at two myths about setting prices on your

jewelry repairs. This month we will look at a preferred method to

determine what to charge.

Imagine for a moment that there is no money. You cannot buy

anything; you must barter. For example; if you need the oil

changed in your car and your mechanic needs a ring sized, you

could size his ring in exchange for the oil change in your car.

Everybody would be happy - until you drove 3,000 miles and

needed another oil change. You return to your mechanic only to

find he does not have another ring that needs sizing. So you find

a window washer who needs a ring sized, and you size his ring.

In exchange, he washes your mechanic’s windows, who in

exchange, changes the oil in your car. Once again, everybody is

happy, until… .

As an alternative to trade. man devised money to simplify his life.

(I bet you never thought of money as simplifying your life, did

you?). You size your window washer’s ring and in exchange he

pays you an amount of money equivalent to the value of the

service you provide. You then go to your mechanic for your oil

change and pay him an amount of money equivalent to the value

of the service he provides. Your mechanic then goes to your

window washer and he has his windows washed and pays him

an amount of money equivalent to the value of the service he

provides. Once again, everybody is happy. That is of course, as

long as everybody has set their prices correctly.

You see the ONLY reason to set a price is to establish the value

for the product or service being rendered and then a fair

exchange of your service for their money can be made. There is

only one person who decides what the value of your services are

– and it’s not you - it is your customer. Your customer decides

the value of your services and whether or not it is worth parting

with their hard-earned cash in exchange for it.

Pubilius Syrus, a first century Roman writer stated, “A thing is

worth whatever the buyer will pay for it.” Old Pubilius was my

kind of guy. He was able to boil down the essences of pricing to

11 words. The Internal Revenue Service and Treasury

Regulations is a little wordier. Here is an excerpt from Revenue

Procedures 66-49. “Fair market value is the price at which the

property or service would change hands between a willing buyer

and a willing seller, if neither one is under any compulsion to buy

or sell…” Sadly, over the years we have forgotten Pubilius

Syrus’ advice when we set our prices. All we think about is the

second part of the Treasury Regulations – the willing seller. How

much am I willing to sell my services for? How much does it cost

me? How little can I sell it for? Instead we should be asking,

How much is MY customers willing to pay for my services?

You see, the ONLY reason a doctor or lawyer can receive more

money for their services than most other people, is because their

clientele believes their time is more valuable. In order to set your

prices correctly you need to find out how much your clientele

perceives your time is worth. When you find this out, then you

will be able to price your shop services properly. There are a

number of methods you can use to find this information

including:

ASK
We all have a group of people we feel comfortable discussing

business with. Ask them to review your prices. See what they

feel is the maximum they would be willing to pay for your

services.

SURVEYS
Compile a short survey asking various questions concerning

marketing and advertising. Then include questions about prices.

For example; What is the maximum you would pay for ___? Add

in various repair services such as: sizing a ring, repairing a

chain, retipping a prong, and replacing a post on an earring.

LABOR RATE COMPARISON
Many times a customer will come into your store and pay you

what you charge for a repair. Then, they leave and spend two to

three times that per hour to have their electronic equipment or

cars repaired. An excellent method to determine what your

customers will spend for your services is to consider what they

are spending for labor on similar work being performed. What is

the going labor rate in your area? Not what the laborers are

being paid, but what are the stores charging for labor? Some

industries to consider include: Accounting, Appliance Repairs,

Auto Mechanics, Carpentry, Cleaning Services, Commercial

Artists, Computer Repair, Electricians, Electronic Repairs,

Graphic Artists, Lawn Services, and Shoe Repairs.

SERVICE COMPARISON
Another excellent method to use is to compare what your

customers willingly pay for similar services, and then price your

services correspondingly. Consider such items as: a doctor’s

office visit, an oil change in a car, cleaning heads in a VCR,

painting a room in a house, having a book re-bound, a tune-up of

a lawnmower, and repairing a toaster. For example, an oil

change for your car takes about the same time as sizing a ring.

The cost of the oil and filter is about the same as the gold

needed for sizing. However, the skill level of the high school kid

changing your oil is lower than your goldsmith. Therefore, the oil

change has a slightly lower value than the ring sizing, and you

can reasonably price your sizing slightly higher than what your

customers pay to have their oil changed.

TEST PRICING
To do this, raise the prices on all repairs for a period of time. At

the end of the period, raise them again. Gradually raise the price

on each item until you receive significant price resistance. When

you receive price resistance on an item do not raise that price

anymore, but continue to raise prices on the other items. When

significant price resistance is met on each item, you have

reached the peak market price for your store.

The method you use is not nearly as important as that you find

out the information from your customers. Each store’s clientele

perceives the value of those services differently. Therefore,

each store’s management must make their own pricing decisions

based on their clientele’s perceived value of the services they

provide from their shop. When you know what value YOUR

clientele places on the services you provide, and therefore what

prices they would be willing to pay for them, then you will know

how much to price that “doggie in the window”.

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<> <> <> <> <> <> GOLD SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> <>

Impact Specialties

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> > > Impact Repairware Software < < <

We have developed this new software to be used in conjunction

with our laser repair envelopes, cut sheets and cards. This

software will enable jewelers to computerize their process.

Impact Repairware features repair location tracking, parts and

inventory database, customer database, special occasion

tracking and a variety of reports. It is available in single user or

multi user and features a watch repair and jewelry repair form.

Impact Repairware can be used to provide estimates, appraisals

and receipts.

For more information or to receive a FREE trial disk, visit us at

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Impact – For All Your Jewelry Store Form Needs

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<> <> <> <> QUOTES WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

Optimists are people who, when they wear out their
shoes, just figure they are back on their feet.

Zig Ziglar

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The secret of getting ahead is getting started.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

It’s not what you do once in a while, it’s what you do day in and

day out that makes the difference.

Jenny Craig

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If we had no winter, the spring would not be so pleasant; if we

did not sometimes have a taste of adversity, prosperity would not

be so welcome.

Anne Bradstreet

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Shoot for the moon. Even if you miss, you’ll land among the

stars.

Les Brown

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When I stand before God at the end of my life, I would hope that

I would not have a single bit of talent left and could say, “I used

everything you gave me.”

Erma Bombeck

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It’s not enough to be good if you have the ability to be better. It

is not enough to be good if you can be great.

Albert Cox

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You can buy a person’s time; you can buy his physical presence

in a given place; you can even buy a measured number of skilled

muscular motions per year.

But you cannot buy enthusiasm. You cannot buy initiative. You

cannot buy the devotion of hearts, minds and souls. You have to

earn those.

Clarence Francis

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When wealth is lost, nothing is lost;

When health is lost, something is lost;

When character is lost, all is lost.

German Proverb

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A little sleep, a little slumber, a little folding of the hands to rest –

and poverty will come on you like a bandit and scarcity like an

armed man.

The Bible -- Proverbs 6:10-11

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<> <> <> <> <> SIMON SEZ SEMINARS <> <> <> <> <>

Bradney W. Simon is an accomplished platform speaker;

providing Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars.
For information on having him speak for your organization log

onto; http://www.BWSimon.com

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

> > > > JCK Show - Las Vegas < < < <

May 31, 2001

Bradney Simon will be speaking at the JCK Las Vegas Show

For more information and to register contact JCK Shows:

http://jck.expoplanner.com/vegas.html

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

> > > > IJO Conference < < < <

August 4 - 8, 2001

Bradney Simon will conduct seminars and Bench Demonstrations

at the Independent Jewelers Organization

Show in Salt Lake City.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

> > > > New Hampshire Jewelers Association < < < <

October 21, 2001

Bradney Simon will be presenting Trade Secrets – Tips Tricks

and Techniques of a Master Jeweler.

For more information call Paul Richter 603-437-2655

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

> > > > Two Great Seminars for Jewelers < < < <

=> Run Your Shop Without It Running You

This seminar will help jewelers increase profits by operating
an efficient jewelry repair shop. It contains innovative and
practical information that you can use in your store. Topics
include: Pricing, Take-In Procedures, Productivity in the Shop,
Employee Development, and Much More.

=> Trade Secrets
Tips, Tricks, & Techniques of a Master Jeweler

Making and repairing jewelry encompasses only a few basic

techniques. However, there are numerous tricks to use in

mastering those techniques. In this interactive seminar you will

learn tips, tricks, and techniques on jewelry repair, fabrication,

and stone setting from a JA Certified Master Bench Jeweler.

> > > > Attend Both Seminars < < < <

Run Your Shop on Friday and Trade Secrets on Saturday

Washington DC < > May 4 & 5, 2001

There is still time to register

Go to http://www.bwsimon.com/SimonSezSeminars/DC.htm

Seattle WA < > September 7 & 8, 2001

Chicago IL < > September 28 & 29, 2001

For additional information on these seminars or to register go to

http://www.bwsimon.com/SimonSezSeminars/simon_sez.htm

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<> <> <> <> <> <> GOLD SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> <>

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OR INNOVATIVE IDEA?

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experts.

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Worldwide Gem and Jewelry Industries, is now offering its

unique NEW PRODUCT EVALUATION (NPE) directly to bench

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MVI’s NPE will review your innovation in complete confidence

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<> <> <> <> <> REVERE FINDING TIPS <> <> <> <> <>

Here are some useful tips to help you find things in the studio

from Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts

http://www.revereacademy.com/

Finding Something In The Ultrasonic

By Alan Revere

Sometimes things get lost in the ultrasonic; a small item drops

out of the basket or a stone falls out of its setting, etc. It is

difficult to fish it out because it the piece is too small to grab with

tweezers and the solution is too hot to put your hand into. Try

using a paintbrush to sweep along the floor until you feel it and

then sweep it up the sides until you can grab it.

By the way, NEVER put your hand into an ultrasonic that is

vibrating. It damages your nerves!!!

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<> <> <> <> <> TRADE SECRETS <> <> <> <> <>

When channel setting always undercut the same side of the

channel on each stone. Alternating the undercut side may cause

the stones to set unevenly when finished. Before cutting the

seats mark one of the walls of the channel with a felt tip maker.

Then you will be certain to always undercut the same side of the

channel. This is particularly important if you are interrupted while

cutting the seats.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

A small cotton buff for your flex-shaft can easily be made to

polish recesses and other areas that are small and difficult to

access. First, take an old ball bur small enough to fit into the

area. Then wrap cotton around the bur by holding the bur

against a small piece of cotton while turning slowly in your flex-

shaft. Apply rouge to the cotton and use to polish the area.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

When setting colored stones, use a crown that is slightly larger

than the crown you would set the same size diamond. This

larger size is needed to accommodate the larger pavilion on

color stones.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

When setting colored stones, it is extremely important to place

the stone in the mounting in exactly the same position each time

you test fit the stone while cutting the seat. This is due to the

fact that most colored stones are cut irregularly. To assist you in

this placement, draw a line on the crown of the stone with a fine

tip marker. Then line-up this mark with a distinctive design

element of the mounting, a similar mark with a felt tip marker on

the mounting, or a mark made on the holder holding the

mounting (such as a deep file mark filed into your ring clamp).

When finished setting, any remaining ink can be removed with

alcohol.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Clean solutions in your ultrasonic clean most efficiently. Change

the solution when it becomes dirty to the point that you can no

longer see through it. You cannot clean dirt off jewelry with dirt.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Add a tablespoon or so of hydrogen peroxide to your pickle, and

it will make it work 5 to 10 times faster.

Andy Green

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it

in an e-mail to mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com

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<> <> <> <> <> <> GOLD SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> <>

CEIA USA

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Machines and Medium Frequency Induction Melters.

CEIA Ultrasonics are designed using the latest technologies.

The high efficiency of the generator and the absence of moving

mechanical parts guarantee the machine an extremely long

lifetime. All functions are microprocessor controlled which allows

for adjustable cavitation, temperature and time.

Call us for a free trial.

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CEIA USA

Tel: 609-631-8802

Email: jbruns@ceia-usa.com Web Page http://www.ceia.net

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<> <> <> <> <> ON THE BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <>

IT’S INVISIBLE

Part 1

By Robert Gravley

For illustrations of this process go to:

http://www.bwsimon.com/TradeSecrets/InvisibleSetting.htm

The majority of the invisible set styles that are available are the

type where the diamonds are pressed in. To do repairs of any

kind I believe you should understand how these stones are set

and how to set them.

The secret to invisible setting is the precision cut rail(s) that

holds the diamond in place. Manufacturers today will create a

master model, the stone setter will cut the rails with the utmost

precision, a mold is made and the live mountings are set with

little or no alterations necessary. Newer proprietary processes

will set the diamonds in a package or cartridges typically made of

platinum. You can identify these cast in place settings by the

two tone under-galley. The boxed settings are dropped in a wax

model and cast in place. Some manufacturers claim they can do

sizing on these styles without damaging the settings because the

box does not move with the shank. Most or all manufacturers

will not share information on design limitations.

To cut seats for invisible setting first inspect the mounting. The

center rail should be significantly thicker than the cross

members. Look for cracks, casting defects, and potential

problems that could occur during setting. Use a bud bur to clear

enough metal away to make room for the pavillion for each

stone. Depending on the number of rows and or style, one or

more rails need to have seats cut. The finished rail cross section

should resemble a (T) shape or flattened (Y). Start cutting this T

by using a 45' bur.006 and or an onglette graver 3/0 to 5/0. Cut

a continuous line from one end to the other. If the cross

members get in your way trim them down slightly.

The horizontal portion of this rail must have a uniform and

unwavering thickness, with a tapered edge. The depth of the cut

will depend on the depth of the groove in the diamonds. Practice

will reduce trial and error. If more than one rail is needed, take

your time, it must be the same height. The outside walls need to

be undercut so the diamonds can be tilted into position. Some

designs will use rails on the inside and out; the outside wall will

only appear to be undercut and holding the stones.

After all trimming is complete, lay the diamonds in position; the

rail you cut should be the only contact points. Any metal

touching the pavillion will prevent the stone from seating in the

rail. You will need to undercut the top and or the bottom outside

channel wall to hide discrepancies, if any, and to have the

flexibility to slide the stones and make adjustments in spacing.

When satisfied that your diamonds will set evenly without

damaging each other, remove them and retain their order on a

waxed tray. Most manufacturers will rhodium plate the under

gallery prior to setting. Use a chopstick or a hard wood dowel

with a diameter slightly smaller than the table of the diamonds.

Mount the dowel in a graver handle the length is up to you, but I

find better control with a shorter dowel.

Set the first diamond in place using the wood dowel. Push down

directly on the table of the diamond holding the tool

perpendicular to the stone's table. With firm pressure push the

diamond’s groove into the rail, it may snap into place. Do not

force the stone down. You may have to do additional trimming to

shorten the rail. Steady pressure will cause the rail to flatten and

the stone to set tight. Set each stone slightly loose. When all

stones are in place go back and tighten keeping the tables at the

same height. Be careful of the spacing, damage occurs at this

point if you are careless. The last step is to burnish the outside

channel walls.

This is an over simplified explanation of how to set invisible set

stones. A true understanding can only be obtained by sitting at

the bench and practicing. This is an advanced technique that

requires great skill with gravers and precision cutting a straight

line.

Next Month we will look at replacing and tightening stones as

well as sizing invisible set rings.

Robert Gravley is Atlanta Shop Foreman for the Shane Co

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<> <> <> <> <> SILVER SPONSORS <> <> <> <> <>

Namano / Southeastern Findings

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Call 1-800-282-8285 or visit us on the World Wide Web

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Jewelry Dealers World Trade Net

http://www.jdwtn.com/

<> <> <> Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel <> <> <>

Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the on going

discussions, or just read and take in all the advice from many

excellent Jewelers from around the world.

Membership includes: Many topical Discussion Channels,

Plus you may buy, sell and trade on the Buy/Sell Channels, Plus

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List B W Simon as your sponsor on the membership application

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For Information and rates on placing an Ad Go to:

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<> <> <> <> <> Thank You for Reading <> <> <> <> <>

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A complete archive of back issues of E-BENCH is located there.

Visit often, as we will be making changes to our site,
adding additional useful information for bench jewelers.

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+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Information provided in this document is provided ‘As Is’ without
warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied. This
publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative
information concerning the subject matter covered. It is provided
with the understanding that the author or publisher is not
engaged in rendering legal, accounting, or other professional
services. If legal advice or other expert assistance is required,
the services of a competent professional person should be
sought.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

For editorial suggestions, comments, ideas or requests,
please send an E-Mail to Bradney W. Simon
mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com

B W Simon
1066 Hopkins St.
Spartanburg, SC 29307
864-921-0827
http://www.BWSimon.com

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