E-BENCH Volume 2 Issue 8

<> <> <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <> <>

A New Method of Learning in a New Millennium

August 2001
Volume 2 Issue 8 circulation over 1,200

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<> <> <> <> ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER <> <> <> <>

E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for
Retail Jewelry Store Owners, Shop Managers, Bench Jewelers,
and Anyone Else That Is Interested.

We encourage you to forward this newsletter to anyone that you
think may benefit from it, provided that you forward all of it
without modification and not just portions of it. This document
may NOT be distributed for profit. E-BENCH is a copyrighted
newsletter and all rights are reserved!

We assure you that your email address is kept strictly
confidential and is not shared with anyone for any reason.

E-BENCH is sent to you each month FREE of charge

because of the generous support of our SPONSORS.

Please support them with your purchases.

Thanks – Bradney W. Simon CMBJ, CMP

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<> <> <> <> <> PLATINUM SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>

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<> <> <> <> <> TABLE OF CONTENTS <> <> <> <> <>

Over the last 19 months of publishing this newsletter, we have

heard from many of you regarding the content of this newsletter.

In response to your requests, we have altered the content to

bring you more tips including tips from other Master Jewelers.

REVERE FINDING TIPS

Useful tips to help you find things in the studio from Revere

Academy of Jewelry Arts

TRADE SECRETS

Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little easier
and more productive from Bradney W. Simon CMBJ and
E-BENCH Readers.

SIMON SEZ SEMINARS

See and hear Bradney W. Simon in person

STEWART'S BENCH TIPS

Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers

AT THE PLATINUM BENCH

Tips for working on Platinum from Platinum Guild International

FEATURE ARTICLE

Learn how to make you shop more profitable, a new technique,

or brush up on basic skills.

LASER LESSON

Tips and tricks to make using a Laser Welder easier from
B. Staley, Goldsmiths/Precision Laser Welding

GERRY’S GEMZ

Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting

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<> <> <> <> <> REVERE FINDING TIPS <> <> <> <> <>

Here are some useful tips to help you find things in the studio
from Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts

http://www.revereacademy.com/

Finding the Right Graver

By Alan Revere

Most jewelers and setters have a pile of loose gravers in a box or

on their bench top. Finding the right one can be time consuming

and frustrating. Make life easier on yourself by identifying the

graver on the end of the handle. First, use a slide caliper to

measure the width of each graver (I find this more useful than

relying on the inconsistent and arbitrary numbering system

gravers come with.) Write the size on the handle using a

permanent marker. Below the size, draw the shape; a "V" for

anglette gravers, "W" for Florentine, "U" for round, etc. and then

make a rack for your gravers. You can drill a number of holes in

a piece of wood or the edge of your bench, and stick the gravers

in with the handle sticking out, easily identified. Or make a wire

mesh stand for your gravers by folding up a section of heavy

wire mesh into a rack or by fitting a piece of this mesh into your

drawer (if it is deep enough). When you have time, go over each

marking on the handles with a small round bur, cutting into the

wood and leaving deep lines that will outlast a permanent

marker. By grouping all the round gravers, flat gravers, etc. in

the rack and according to size, it will be a snap to find that 1.3

mm flat graver when you need it, as well as all the others.

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<> <> <> <> <> <> GOLD SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> <>

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MVI’s NPE will review your innovation in complete confidence

and provide you with a report, honestly evaluating its commercial

potential and marketing options.

MVI is the only business consulting organization working

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more information about MVI’s New Product Evaluation visit us at

www.mvimarketing.com or email us at info@mvimarketing.com

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<> <> <> <> <> TRADE SECRETS <> <> <> <> <>

To straighten kinks in flat chains such as herringbone, lay the

chain out on a hard surface such as a formica counter top. Then

carefully roll across the kink with a wooden wallpaper seam

roller. Another method to use to remove kinks is to carefully

squeeze the chain between the jaws of flat nose pliers.

A bad kink may be removed with the following method. Grasp

the chain between your thumb and index finger, placing one

hand on each side of the kink. Then slowly rotate your hands in

a circular motion in the direction opposite of the chain twist.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

When soldering rings together tack them together at 4:30 and

7:30 positions. Then, flow the solder across the back of the

shank. This will keep the rings from “popping” apart if previously

sized with low melting solder.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

To help hold wedding sets together in perfect alignment while

soldering together, hold the rings together in your fingers. Next,

place a small amount of super glue between the rings at their

top. Then clamp the rings as you normally would and solder the

back of the shanks together. If any glue remains when finished

soak in acetone to remove.

Note: before performing this procedure make certain your

soldering area is well ventilated. When heated super glue will

emit toxic vapors.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Pin stems should be aligned so that the stem will naturally lie

slightly above the catch, with the opening of the catch toward the

bottom of the broach. To fasten slight downward pressure is

exerted on the pin steam. Once fastened the pin seam will

remain under tension, pressing its point against the inside of the

clasp. If the clasp accidentally opens while wearing, this tension

will keep the pin seam in place.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

To make certain prongs are down tight on the crown of the

stone, hold the stone at eye level. Then hold your index finger

about 1” above the stone. This will shield direct light from the

stone, causing a silhouette of the stone and prong. Then you

can easily see light coming through any gaps between the stone

and prong. If necessary, tape a 3 X 5 white index card on the

wall in front of your bench to provide a light background to hold

the stone in front of.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Take an old setting bur and grind the point off. Grind down just

past the edge that cuts the corner for the girdle of the stone.

What you have left is a wheel bur with teeth on the edges only.

In essence a wheel bur with a safety edge. With this you can

trim the inside edge of a bezel setting to remove the wavy edge

left from pushing it over the diamond. Cut carefully so as to not

remove very much metal. This will leave a smooth even edge

that can be polished easily with a graver.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it

in an e-mail to mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com

< < < < < <> > > > > >

If you like Trade Secrets then you’ll love Trade Secret of the Day

a bench tip provided daily Monday through Friday on various

Internet web sites including:

http://www.jewelrydealersnetwork.com/

http://www.polygon.net/

http://www.watchfix.com/

http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/orchid.htm

If you know of a jewelers’ bulletin board or discussion channel

that you would like to see Trade Secret of the Day posted on,

have the administrator contact me at Brad@BWSimon.com

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<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

Never tire of doing what is right.

Apostle Paul -- II Thessalonians 3:13

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<> <> <> <> <> SIMON SEZ SEMINARS <> <> <> <> <>

Bradney W. Simon is an accomplished platform speaker;

providing Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars.
For information on having him speak for your organization log

onto; http://www.BWSimon.com

< < < < < <> > > > > >

> > > > New Hampshire Jewelers Association < < < <

September 15, 2001

Bradney Simon will be presenting Trade Secrets – Tips Tricks

and Techniques of a Master Jeweler.

For more information call Paul Richter 603-437-2655

< < < < < <> > > > > >

> > > > Connecticut Jewelers Association < < < <

October 24, 2001

Bradney Simon will be presenting information from

Run Your Shop Without It Running You, and Trade Secrets

For more information call Ed Isenberg 860-246-6566

< < < < < <> > > > > >

> > > > Two Great Seminars for Jewelers < < < <

=> Run Your Shop Without It Running You

This seminar will help jewelers increase profits by operating
an efficient jewelry repair shop. It contains innovative and
practical information that you can use in your store. Topics
include: Pricing, Take-In Procedures, Productivity in the Shop,
Employee Development, and Much More.

=> Trade Secrets
Tips, Tricks, & Techniques of a Master Jeweler

Making and repairing jewelry encompasses only a few basic

techniques. However, there are numerous tricks to use in

mastering those techniques. In this interactive seminar you will

learn tips, tricks, and techniques on jewelry repair, fabrication,

and stone setting from a JA Certified Master Bench Jeweler.

“No matter how much one knows it is always enlightening and

stimulating to sit back and listen to a Master share his own

personal tips. This is an excellent presentation.”
Alan Revere – Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts

To see what others are saying about this seminar go to:

http://www.bwsimon.com/Testimonials/TradeSecretsSeminar.htm

< < < < < <> > > > > >

> > > > Attend Both Seminars < < < <

Run Your Shop on Friday and Trade Secrets on Saturday

Chicago IL < > September 28 & 29, 2001

For additional information on these seminars or to register go to

http://www.bwsimon.com/SimonSezSeminars/simon_sez.htm

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<> <> <> <> <> STEWART'S BENCH TIPS <> <> <> <> <>

Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers

http://www.stewartsintlschool.com/

CHAIN REPAIR

by Jim Stewart

Take time to clean the chain because of the oils and hairspray

that get inside the hollow links. You may have to clean the chain

using a tablespoon of Red Devil Lye to a few cups of water at

180F. You will need ventilation while doing this. You can cut

through one link on both sides using an ultra thin cutoff disc or

you can lay the gold chain down on a flat piece of copper and cut

the links with an X-ACTO knife. It is less costly to replace an
X-ACTO blade than a flush side cutting pliers. Now weave links

together and solder using paste solder. Paste solder is not

necessary but it is a little faster.

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<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

The only true measure of success is the ratio between what we

might have done and what we might have been on the one hand,

and the thing we have made and the thing we have made of

ourselves on the other.

H. G. Wells

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<> <> <> <> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <> <> <> <>

Tips for working on Platinum from Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ

director of technical education for Platinum Guild International

http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com/

SIZING A PLATINUM/COBALT (Pt/Co) RING

Pt/Co is slightly magnetic and can be easily detected at the

bench with a magnet.

Sizing a Platinum ring is normally done with the welding method,

as long as there are no stones nearby and the ring is made of

Platinum. The exception is Pt/Co, as cobalt oxidizes. To size a

Pt/Co ring, 1700 seamless solder is recommended.

Roll the solder paper thin, wedge it into a very well fitting seam

and heat. The seam should be very, very thin. When welded

with a torch, Pt/Co may oxidize slightly. This can be removed by

firecoating the object after the initial welding and re-heating it to

about 1000 F. or by pickling in a 10% solution of nitric acid. The

oxidation will not reappear during wear. Next, use a file to

remove excess solder, and burnish the seam with a Tungsten

burnisher. This should remove all traces of the seam. Now

polish and clean the ring. With its good hardness, Pt/Co takes

on a great polish.

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<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

Learn from the mistakes of others.
You can’t live long enough to make them all yourself.

Martin Vinbee

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<> <> <> <> <> FEATURE ARTICLE <> <> <> <> <>

TAKE-IN NOT TAKEN Part 1

by Bradney W. Simon CMBJ

A lady was apartment hunting one day and she found the perfect

apartment. It was ideal for her situation. So she signed the

lease and went home to start packing.

While she was packing she did what many of us would do and

started to visualize where she would put her possessions in that

new apartment. She could envision her couch along one wall,

and she could sit there and watch TV, if she placed the TV just

so. The chair would look nice between those two windows, and

on she went around the new apartment.

Then it dawned on her that she could not remember seeing a

bathroom. Where in the world is the toilet, she thought. Surely

there was not one large bathroom at the end of the hall that she

would share with the other tenants.

The more she thought about this the more concerned she

became. She decided to write the landlord a letter to find out

where the toilet was located. However, as she wrote she

became embarrassed. She could not write the word toilet in a

letter. What should she say? Then she thought of the old term

Water Closet. That sounded better to her, but in her haste she

abbreviated and only wrote the initials W C.

Well the landlord received the letter, and as you can imagine, did

not understand what she wanted to know. What is the W C?

What was she looking for? Then it dawned on him. She must

want to know where the Waverly Church is located so he wrote

the following response. Now keep in mind that she wants to

know where the toilet is located as she reads:

Dear Madam,

You will be pleased to know that the W C is located only three

blocks away. It is a lovely stroll on a nice day. You will find that

most all of the tenants use the facilities there. Most go only once

a week, and stay for an hour or two. However, some feel it

necessary to go more often. Everyone who goes there leaves

refreshed, and feels revitalized.

If I can be of further assistance, Please let me know.

Your Landlord

Miscommunication such as this is a major contributor to

problems in business as well. In fact, many of the problems in

business today are the result of faulty communication and

jewelry stores are not exempt. Problems associated with poor

communication happen in many areas of our stores but none are

more evident than those associated with the take-in process.

Proper take-in procedures are important! A single, simple

mistake during take-in can erase several months’ shop profits

and dramatically affect the entire store’s profit for the year. It

may also destroy your good name; a few dissatisfied customers

can give you a reputation for mishandling jewelry.

Limits Liability

There are many stories similar to the one just told. Proper

identification, descriptions, and documentation reduces your

store’s potential liability. It will minimize litigation from your

neglect or misrepresentation of their jewelry.

Enhances Image

Many customers are concerned with stones being switched, or

their jewelry being misplaced or damaged while in your care.

Following proper procedures reassures customers of your

professionalism, enhancing the store’s image as a reliable

source of quality repair work and new merchandise.

Increases Accuracy

Complete and clear instructions assure that the desired work is

performed to the customer’s satisfaction.

Improves Productivity

An often overlooked benefit of proper take-in procedures is the

improvement in the efficiency of your shop operation. Accurate

descriptions simplify replacing repaired jewelry in the correct

envelope, and everyone saves time by avoiding interruptions for

additional instructions.

You need experienced, competent salespeople to handle take-

ins. They do not have to be gemologists or bench jewelers.

However, besides knowing proper take-in procedures, they must

have some training in:

Basic Gemology

How to identify and describe stones and metals

Jewelry Repair

The types of work the repair shop can handle

Counter Skills

Inspection, cleaning, measuring ring sizes

People Skills

Communicate clearly and tactfully

The sales staff should handle all take-ins, since this process

offers chances to sell other articles and services, especially

when repairing the item might be more costly than replacing it. If

handled properly re-mounts and sales of new jewelry can

become an important part of the take-in process. Knowledge of

the store's inventory and the skills of the salesperson are needed

for this, and they are better prepared to meet the needs of the

customer. Occasionally, even a trained salesperson needs

technical help. They should not hesitate to ask the bench

jeweler for assistance.

The repair envelope is the written record of the customer’s

jewelry and the work they are authorizing you to perform. It is

essential that this record be complete, accurate, and clear.

Incomplete and inaccurate information must be eliminated if an

efficient shop is to be maintained.

Be careful when placing jewelry in envelopes. Often jewelry is

damaged further while stored in the envelopes. Do not force

envelopes into a box for storage. This may bend or dent the

jewelry. Extremely fragile jewelry should be put into a box before

being placed in the envelope.

Be careful of customers’ jewelry while in your possession.

Always place it in the best safe you have. If robbed it is harder

to replace customer’s jewelry than your own inventory. Even if

the value is lower, the difficulty in finding suitable replacements

adds to the importance of caring for the jewelry.

If a customer comes in to pick-up their jewelry, and leaves

another item for repair, use a new envelope for the new job. Do

not cross out the instructions on the original envelope and write

in new instructions next to it. It does not allow you to record an

adequate description of the new piece of jewelry. Reusing an

envelope eliminates the record of the original repair for your

permanent file. This also causes confusion in the shop, possibly

resulting in the wrong repairs being performed.

Never place more than one piece of jewelry in an envelope. If

the customer brings in multiple items for repair, use a separate

envelope for each article. Then complete descriptions and

instructions of each piece can be recorded. Later, there will be

no confusion in the shop as to what is to be done and to which

piece of jewelry. Make a notation on the envelope that this is job

1 of 2, 2 of 2, etc. Then you can verify that all work is finished

before notifying the customer.

Over the next two months we will look at, the inspection process,

and properly filling out the job envelope.

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<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

The man who makes no mistakes does not usually make

anything.

Edward J. Phelps

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<> <> <> <> <> LASER LESSON <> <> <> <> <>

Provided by B. Staley, Goldsmiths/Precision Laser Welding

bstaley2@bellsouth.net 1.877.535.9938

USING A MASK

by Bob Staley

Use a piece of sterling silver sheet to mask areas you don't want

the laser pulse to affect. Hold the silver sheet between the pulse

and the part you want protected. Silver is highly reflective and

should offer protection against stray pulses. Just be sure to

keep the silver free of the black sooty oxides that can develop.

Silver is reflective but will absorb the full impact of the pulse

when darkened by oxides or masked with an ink marker.

Though it can be sticky when warmed under the laser chamber

lights and from the transference of heat from the pulsed metal,

yellow "plasti-tack," (the stuff that softens and is used to hold

sheet paper to walls without damaging the wall surface), can

also be used. You can get it from your local office supply store

and it can be used to cover sensitive areas and stones to guard

against a ricochet.

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<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

Things don’t turn-up in this world until somebody turns them up.

James Garfield

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<> <> <> <> <> GERRY’S GEMZ <> <> <> <> <>

Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting

http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com/index.html

SETTING PRINCESS CUT DIAMONDS

by Gerald N. Lewy

Princess cut diamonds are usually not exactly square. Before

setting measure the stone and mark the long side with an

indelible ink/marker. This way you won't forget which direction

the stone is to be set.

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<> <> <> <> <> SILVER SPONSORS <> <> <> <> <>

Namano / Southeastern Findings

Service to the Manufacturing Jeweler

We are Findings, Diamonds, Wedding Bands, Jewelry Boxes,

Platinum, Batteries, Tools, and So Much More.

Greater Selection - Expanded Inventory - No Minimum Order

Call 1-800-282-8285 or visit us on the World Wide Web

http://www.sefindings.com

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Jewelry Dealers World Trade Network

http://www.JewelryDealersNetwork.com/

<> <> <> Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel <> <> <>

Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the on going

discussions, or just read and take in all the advice from many

excellent Jewelers from around the world.

Membership includes: Many topical Discussion Channels,

Plus you may buy, sell and trade on the Buy/Sell Channels, Plus

Much More.

List B W Simon as your sponsor on the membership application

and you will receive:

** ** 30 DAYS FREE MEMBERSHIP ** **

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Place Your Ad Here

Over 1,200 Bench Jewelers will see your message, plus it will

remain in our permanent archive at www.BWSimon.com

For Information and rates on placing an Ad Go to:

http://bwsimon.com/E-BENCH/E-BenchSponsors.htm

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<> <> <> <> <> Thank You for Reading <> <> <> <> <>

We are on the World Wide Web.
Visit us at http://www.BWSimon.com

A complete archive of back issues of E-BENCH is located there.

Visit often, as we will be making changes to our site,
adding additional useful information for bench jewelers.

<> <> <> SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION <> <> <>

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< < < < < <> > > > > >

Information provided in this document is provided ‘As Is’ without
warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied. This
publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative
information concerning the subject matter covered. It is provided
with the understanding that the author or publisher is not
engaged in rendering legal, accounting, or other professional
services. If legal advice or other expert assistance is required,
the services of a competent professional person should be
sought.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

For editorial suggestions, comments, ideas or requests,
please send an E-Mail to Bradney W. Simon
mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com

B W Simon
1066 Hopkins St.
Spartanburg, SC 29307
864-921-0827
http://www.BWSimon.com

< < < < < <> > > > > >

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