<> <> <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <> <>
A New Method of Learning in a New Millennium
January 2002
Volume 3 Issue 1
circulation over 1,500
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WE HAVE MOVED
Our offices are now located at:
B W Simon
106 South Pinepoint Dr.
Spartanburg, SC 29302
NEW Telephone Number:
864 – 680 - 4416
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E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for
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Owners, Shop Managers, Bench Jewelers,
and Anyone Else That Is
Interested.
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<> <> <> <> <> PLATINUM SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>
Are You Going to Tucson?
Then you will want to attend:
Trade Secrets – TUCSON
February 7th 2002 - During Gem Shows
the day before Catalog
In Motion
Seminar presented by: Bradney W. Simon
Publisher & Editor of E-BENCH and BENCH Magazine
Making and repairing jewelry encompasses only a few basic techniques. However, there are numerous tricks to use in mastering those techniques. In this seminar you will learn tips, tricks, and techniques on Jewelry Repair, Fabrication, and Stonesetting.
For more information or to register log onto: www.BWSimon.com/SimonSezSeminars
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<> <> <> <> <> TABLE OF CONTENTS <> <> <> <> <>
REVERE FINDING TIPS
Useful tips to help you find things in the studio from Revere
Academy of Jewelry Arts
FAVORITE TIPS
Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little
easier
and more productive from Bradney W. Simon CMBJ and
E-BENCH
Readers.
STEWART'S BENCH TIPS
Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers
SIMON SEZ SEMINARS
See and hear Bradney W. Simon in person
FEATURE ARTICLE
Learn how to make you shop more profitable, a new technique,
or brush up on basic skills.
AT THE PLATINUM BENCH
Tips for working on Platinum from Platinum Guild International
GERRY’S GEMZ
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
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<> <> <> <> <> REVERE FINDING TIPS <> <> <> <> <>
Here are some useful tips to help you find things in the
studio
from Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts
FINDING A LOST ITEM ON THE FLOOR
By Alan Revere
How many
times have you dropped a setting, a stone, a small spring, etc. on the floor and
then crawled around on your hands and knees looking for it? Or perhaps you grab a broom and start
sweeping the entire workshop looking for it. Here is a way to recover lost items
and save yourself from having to put knee patches on all your pants. Use a vacuum cleaner! But before you condemn the lost item to
the bowels of your Hoover, remove the brush attachment and cover the end of the
tube with a piece of stocking or plastic mesh held on by a rubber band. Now suck
up all the loose stuff lying around and when you have a load caught in the mesh,
just hold it over a tray or newspaper and turn off the power. All the stuff drops off, including that
lost 3.5 carat emerald you were supposed to set by lunchtime.
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<> <> <> <> <> <> GOLD SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> <>
Crafford - LaserStar
Technologies designs and manufacturers a
complete range of
Nd:YAG pulse laser systems for retail and
manufacturing
jewelers. LaserStar® Workstations
are 50
watt/class 1 systems
ranging in power from 85 – 120 joules and
are ideal for a wide
range of jewelry design, manufacturing, and
repair applications in
gold, silver, and platinum.
Crafford’s team
of highly trained
direct sales and applications specialists are
always available to
review new applications, share technical
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service and technical support from our
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manufacturing facility.
All
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Workstations
are Made In USA and comply with all FDA (CDRH)
and
CE certification guidelines for safety.
Four models of the
LaserStar
Workstation are available to the jewelry marketplace.
For
more information please reference our web site at
www.laserstar.net
or www.crafford.com
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<> <> <> <> <> <> FAVORITE TIPS <> <> <> <> <> <>
Take a warm ball of Jett Sett and squeeze the lower third in a
ring clamp. Then allow it to
cool. To use, re-heat the top of
the ball to secure the item of jewelry and re-clamp the ball in your ring
clamp.
<
< < < < <> > > > > >
A small cotton buff for your flex-shaft can easily be made to
polish recesses and other areas that are small and difficult to access. First, take an old ball bur small enough
to fit into the area. Then wrap
cotton around the bur by holding the bur against a small piece of cotton while
turning slowly in your flex-shaft.
Apply rouge to the cotton and use to polish the area.
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A ring roller designed to enlarge rings can be useful to tighten stones in a channel set wedding band. Select a half-round die larger than the width of the band making certain the die will contact the tops of the channel without hitting the stones. Apply gentle pressure and roll across the entire channel, compressing the metal down tight onto the stones. Then, remove the ring and check the stones. Repeat as necessary. DO NOT Over Tighten The Die Against The Ring. This process will leave the channel smooth and even.
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< < < <> > > > > >
To help hold wedding sets together in perfect alignment while soldering together, hold the rings together in your fingers. Next, place a small amount of super glue between the rings at their top. Then, clamp the rings as you normally would and solder the back of the shanks together. If any glue remains when finished soak in acetone to remove.
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Pin stems should be aligned so that the stem will naturally lie slightly above the catch, with the opening of the catch toward the bottom of the broach. To fasten, slight downward pressure is exerted on the pin stem. Once fastened the pin stem will remain under tension, pressing its point against the inside of the clasp. If the clasp accidentally opens while wearing, this tension will keep the pin stem in place.
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Attach a sponge lightly saturated with oil to your rolling mill. Place one sponge above the top roller and one sponge below the bottom roller. As you use the mill the sponges will keep the rollers clean and the oil will keep them from rusting. You can keep them in place with binding wire. Just make sure you keep everything away from the gears.
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Color the inside of the channel with a black felt tip marker prior to setting. The diamonds will stand out against this background making it easier to keep the spacing uniform. When finished setting, dip the jewelry in alcohol to remove the ink. Use white out when setting dark colored stones.
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If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it
in an e-mail to mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com
< < < < < <> > > > > >
If you like Favorite Tips then you’ll love Favorite Tip of the Day
a bench tip provided daily Monday through Friday on various
Internet web sites including:
http://www.jewelrydealersnetwork.com/
http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/orchid.htm
http://www.groups.yahoo.com/group/Jeweller
If you know of a jewelers’ bulletin board or discussion channel
that you would like to see Favorite Tip of the Day posted on,
have the administrator contact me at Brad@BWSimon.com
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<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>
I can’t
change the direction of the wind, but I can adjust my sails to always reach my
destination.
Jimmy
Dean
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<> <> <> <> <> STEWART'S BENCH TIPS <> <> <> <> <>
Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers
http://www.stewartsintlschool.com/
ROLLING GOLD
By Jim Stewart
When rolling gold through a rolling
mill tap the gold each time it passes through on the steel roller. The pitch will get higher each time you
pass it through the mill. You can
tell by the sound when it is ready to be annealed again.
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<> <> <> <> <> SIMON SEZ SEMINARS <> <> <> <> <>
Bradney W. Simon is an accomplished platform speaker;
providing Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars.
For information on having him speak
for your organization log
onto; http://www.BWSimon.com/SimonSez Seminars
< < < < < <> > > > > >
TRADE SECRETS - TUCSON
Tips, Tricks, and Techniques of a Master Jeweler
Tucson AZ
February 7, 2002
This one-day seminar coincides with the Tucson Gem Shows
and is the day before Catalog in Motion.
For more information or to register log onto: www.BWSimon.com/SimonSezSeminars
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<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>
Large-scale success today is spelled T E A M W O R K. The successful teamworker doesn’t wear a chip on his shoulder, doesn’t look for slights, isn’t constantly on the alert lest his ‘dignity’ be insulted. He puts the good of the house – the company or team – first. And if the whole prospers, he, as an active, effective, progressive part, will prosper with it.
B. C. Forbes
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<> <> <> <> <> <> GOLD SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> <>
If You Like E-Bench
YOU WILL LOVE BENCH MAGAZINE
A New Print Magazine For Bench Jewelers
BENCH Magazine, a new quarterly publication from B W Simon,
is Written BY Bench Jewelers FOR Bench Jewelers. Each issue
is filled with high-quality instructional articles by working jewelers
who are masters of their craft; enhanced by line drawings, color
renderings, or photographs.
From Basic Techniques to Advanced Applications -
From
Centuries Old Procedures to the Latest in Technological
Advancements, BENCH Magazine provides accurate informative
instruction from Professional Bench Jewelers. In addition, each
issue contains a Bench Tip section where you can learn tricks of
the trade from the magazine staff and jewelers around the world.
Subscriptions are free to jewelers in the USA and Canada,
and only $40 per year for overseas delivery.
To subscribe go to http://www.BWSimon.com/BENCH
BENCH and E-BENCH - Training Jewelers Worldwide
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<> <> <> <> <> FEATURE ARTICLE <> <> <> <> <>
Fit to be Sized
By Bradney W. Simon CMBJ
Before sizing any ring, examine it carefully and compare it to the information on the job envelope. If you see any damage or potential problems that are not marked clearly on the envelope, inform the store manager or sales clerk who took in the job so that they can notify the customer. It is extremely important that you inform them now, before any work is performed, rather than wait until later to inform them.
Measure the thickness and width of the ring shank and record these measurements on the job envelope. Having these measurements may save you from doing a half-shank later if the customer complains that you thinned the shank too much during sizing.
While examining the ring, measure the ring’s current size and determine if you need to size it up or down. Divide your sizing jobs into four groups: rings to be sized down, rings to hammer up (1/2 size or less), rings to size up, and wedding bands to stretch. By organizing your ring sizings in this manner and working on all the rings in each group together will increase your productivity.
To begin, anneal all the wedding bands needing stretching or compressing. Die struck seamless bands are work hardened during the manufacturing process. This hardened gold is difficult to stretch or compress. Annealing the band before you begin will reduce the amount of physical force that you will need to apply to accomplish the task. A ring stretcher is not designed to double as a nautilus machine. In addition, if the metal is not annealed the stretching or compressing process may cause the metal to crack.
While the wedding bands are in the pickle, take all the rings to be sized down together. Then one at a time mark the back of the shank for the amount of gold to be removed from each shank. The difference in one size is 1/10 of an inch or 2.54 millimeters. For simplicity 2.5 millimeters is used in actual practice. If a ring is to be sized up or down one size 2.5 mm is either added or removed from the shank.
The curvature of rings creates problems when down sizing a substantial amount. Your measurement on a flat ruler cannot be accurately transferred to the curved surface of the ring shank. As the distance increases the inaccuracy multiplies. To compensate, when sizing down 3 or more sizes cut the back of the shank at one side of center. Then straighten the back of the shank. Mark the amount to remove on this straightened portion. Cut off the excess amount with your saw and re-shape the ring closing the gap.
When sizing purposely make the ring 1/8 size too small. You can later hammer across the solder joint until the ring reaches the correct size. This will help you to be more accurate in your sizing (if you are a little too large you will need to resize). In addition, this will work-harden the sizing area making a stronger joint, and finishing and polishing will be easier.
When all the
rings are marked, then pick up your saw.
Saw through all the rings without putting down the saw.
When finished sawing, pick up your ring bending pliers and bend all the shanks closed. Make sure there is no visible gap; hold the ring up to a light to see that there is a precise fit. If there is a gap, true the seam with an equaling needle file. Grind a knife-edge on the end of the file. Then it will be easier to insert it into the seam. Another method to true a seam before soldering is to saw through the seam with a saw blade, trimming a little metal from each side of the seam.
Next, group
the rings on your bench as to metal content and color, 14k yellow together, 14k
white together, 18k yellow, etc.
Then place enough solder on your soldering pad to solder all of the rings
closed. Make a small pile of solder
for each metal type.
Then begin
the soldering process. Hold the
torch in one hand and with the other hand pick up a ring with locking tweezers,
and dip the ring in boric acid and alcohol. Set the ring down on your soldering pad
and light it with your torch.
Arrange several rings across your soldering pad in this manner. Then, with the solder pick in your free
hand, pick up the solder and solder the ring shanks closed.
Place the
rings aside on your soldering pad to cool, and pick up another group of rings as
before. As the alcohol is burning
off, pick up the solder with a pick, and solder the shanks of this group. Lay them aside to cool, and move on to
the next group.
With this
process, you can solder all the rings closed without ever placing the torch
down. You light the torch once and
do not have to re-light it for each separate job. When you are finished soldering all the
rings, turn your torch off.
While the
down sizings are cooling, remove the wedding bands from the pickle, and rinse
and dry them off. Place down
sizings in the pickle and begin stretching the wedding bands.
To stretch a wedding band that is larger than your ring stretcher mandrel, slip a copper sleeve over the mandrel and place the ring over the sleeve. The mandrel will press out on the copper sleeve, which in turn will press out on the wedding band stretching it to a larger size. To make the sleeve purchase a 3/4 inch copper pipe coupling from a plumbing supply store. Then, using a hacksaw cut slits down the length of the coupling. Make four or six cuts to line up with the slits on the mandrel on your stretcher. Make all the cuts from the same end and cut 3/4 of the length of the coupling. This will allow it to expand easier and will make it easier to remove the ring when finished.
Next begin work on the up sizings. Cut each shank through with the saw. Then open the shanks, either with pliers or by sliding it down on the ring mandrel. Then cut pieces to add to the shanks from your gold stock and lay on your bench next to each ring. Lay out across your bench each ring with the corresponding piece to add to the shank.
If you do not have the correct size of metal stock available for up sizing, reduce the size of stock with a rolling mill before marking the amount needed. This will eliminate waste and will save time over filing away the excess. Ideally the stock should be 1 tenth of a millimeter and no more than 2 tenths wider and thicker than the shank.
With two pairs of locking tweezers, hold the ring in one pair of tweezers, the piece to be added in the other. Solder the piece you are adding to one side of the ring and lay it aside to cool. When each ring is soldered on one side turn your torch off. Using your pliers, close the gap on each ring making sure you have a tight fit. Then solder the rings closed using the same manner that you used sizing rings down.
When they are
all soldered, place them in the pickle and take out the rings you sized
down. Rinse and dry them off and
begin to file with your half-round ring file. File each ring on the inside so that it
is smooth. File off excess solder
only on the inside of the rings at this time.
Then lay the
file down and pick up the ring mandrel and mallet. Taking one ring at a time, slide it onto
the ring mandrel and straighten it out; check to make certain you have reached
the right size.
When rounding out the rings from sizing use a double face mallet - brass on one side and nylon on the other. Use the nylon side to straighten out the ring shank. Like a rawhide mallet, it will bend the shank but not stretch it. Then if the ring is a little too small turn the hammer around in your hand and tap up with the brass side. This saves time from putting down the rawhide mallet and picking up a steel hammer then going back to the rawhide mallet.
After you
have straightened each ring, pick up your file again. File the sides and back of the shank,
removing the excess solder and hammer marks on the outside of all the
rings.
You should always take great care when filing that you do not remove too much metal. It is impossible to replace the metal removed. When filing to remove excess solder, often the mistake is made of filing too much resulting in thinning the metal. Stop filing when the outline of the solder is just barely visible. Sanding to prepare the metal for polishing will remove the remaining solder. If you continue to file until all evidence of the solder is removed the sanded metal will be thinned more than necessary.
When you have
finished filing each ring, take the rings that you sized up out of the pickle
rinse and dry them off. Add any
rings that are to be sized up 1/2 size or less. They can be hammered up along with
straightening the rest of the up sizings.
Repeat the
filing / straightening process.
File the inside of the rings first, then straighten each ring and then
file the outsides of the rings.
When all ringsneeding to be sized are filed, sand all of the shanks,
polish, and place them in the cleaner.
If you only
have a few rings to size, you can size the down sizings and up sizings
together. Solder the piece on one
side of the up sizings. While they
cool, solder the down sizings. Then
bend and solder the second side of the up sizes.
Sizing heavy gent’s rings
creates additional problems because of the
metal thickness in the shank.
Straightening the ring on a ring mandrel can be particularly
challenging. Using a Lead-filled
weighted rawhide mallet or a dead-blow mallet will provide the extra force
needed to make this job easier. In
addition, one of these mallets can be used to force the ring down on a ring
mandrel when opening a shank up after sawing through the shank.
Heavy duty “Bow Pliers” available from most jewelry tool suppliers are indispensable in closing the gap in down sizing. Be certain to cover the jaws with leather or copper to avoid marring the outside of the ring. Sometimes it is necessary to use a rawhide mallet to hammer the shank into position. A bench mounted ring shank bender is a welcome asset in shaping pieces for up sizing and half-shanks.
When soldering heavy gents rings avoid the temptation to use a pick to smear the solder around the joint. This will result in a weak solder joint, known as a cold solder joint, as the solder flowed only at the surface and not through the seam. Make certain you have a tight fitting seam and apply solder to only one side of the joint. Then, with the heat of your torch pull the solder through the seam to the other side.
By following these procedures your shop will become more productive, and you will be Fit To Be Sized.
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<> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>
Where there is no vision, the people perish.
Proverbs 29:18
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<> <> <> <> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <> <> <> <>
Tips for working on Platinum from Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ
director of technical education for Platinum Guild International
http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com/
SIZING A PLATINUM/COBALT RING
Platinum /Cobalt alloy is slightly
ferro-magnetic. This Pt950 alloy
has very good flow characteristics and is a superior platinum casting
alloy. With its good hardness, it
takes on a great polish.
The best way to size a Pt/Co ring is
soldering with 1700 solder. Roll
the solder paper-thin, wedge it into a very well fitting seam and heat. The seam should be very, very thin. Now use a file to remove excess solder,
and BURNISH the seam with a Tungsten burnisher. This should remove all traces. Now polish and clean the ring.
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<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>
Half-finished work generally proves to be labor lost.
Abraham Lincoln
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<> <> <> <> <> GERRY’S GEMZ <> <> <> <> <>
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com/index.html
SETTING EARING STUDS
by Gerald N. Lewy
When setting stud earrings hold them in a simple clamp rather than in your fingers. If you slip with a burr while hold the mounting in your fingers, you can easily cut your fingers. Spend a few seconds more and save your fingers.
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<> <> <> <> <> SILVER SPONSORS <> <> <> <> <>
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< < < < < <> > > > > >
Agate Cameos, Gems, Tools, Wire
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preston@wire-sculpture.com
601-636-0600
< < < < < <> > > > > >
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<> <> <> <> <> Thank You for Reading <> <> <> <> <>
We are on the World Wide Web.
Visit us at http://www.BWSimon.com
A complete archive of back issues of E-BENCH is located there.
Visit often, as we will be making changes to our site,
adding
additional useful information for bench jewelers.
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Information provided in this document is provided ‘As Is’
without
warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied. This
publication is designed to
provide accurate and authoritative
information concerning the subject matter
covered. It is provided
with the
understanding that the author or publisher is not
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assistance is required,
the services of a competent professional person
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sought.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
For editorial suggestions, comments, ideas or
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please send an E-Mail to Bradney W. Simon
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Copyrighted, 2002, B W Simon. All rights reserved.
B W Simon
106 South Pinepoint Dr.
Spartanburg, SC
2930
864 - 680 - 4416
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