E-Bench Volume 3 Issue 11

<> <> <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <> <>

A New Method of Learning in a New Millennium

November 2002
Volume 3 Issue 11 circulation over 1,800

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<> <> <> <> ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER <> <> <> <>

E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for
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<> <> <> <> <> TABLE OF CONTENTS <> <> <> <> <>

REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS

Tips for Jewelers, Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere

FEATURE ARTICLE

Learn how to make your shop more profitable, a new technique,

or brush up on basic skills.

STEWART'S BENCH TIPS

Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers

AT THE PLATINUM BENCH

Tips for working on Platinum from Platinum Guild International

FAVORITE TIPS

Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little easier

and more productive from Bradney W. Simon CMBJ and

E-BENCH Readers.

GERRY’S GEMZ

Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting

TIPS FOR JEWELERS

Bench Tips from Charles Lewton-Brian

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If You Like E-Bench

YOU WILL LOVE BENCH MAGAZINE

BENCH Magazine, a quarterly publication from BENCH Media,

is Written BY Bench Jewelers FOR Bench Jewelers. Each issue

is filled with high-quality instructional articles by working jewelers

who are masters of their craft.

From Basic Techniques to Advanced Applications -
From Centuries Old Procedures to the Latest in Technological

Advancements, BENCH Magazine provides accurate informative

instruction from Professional Bench Jewelers. In addition, each

issue contains a Bench Tip section where you will learn tricks of

the trade from the magazine staff and jewelers around the world.

Subscriptions are free to jewelers in the USA and Canada,

and only $40 per year for overseas delivery.

To subscribe go to http://www.BWSimon.com/BENCH

BENCH and E-BENCH - Training Jewelers Worldwide

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<> <> <> REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS <> <> <> <>

Tips for Jewelers Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere

Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts

http://www.revereacademy.com/

Read trade magazines, attend industry seminars and listen to

anyone –who wants to give you advice.

Consider all tools from suppliers as raw materials to be

customized for your use.

Never promise to deliver a job before you are certain it will be

finished.

"Well begun is half done." -Aristotle

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<> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

Always bear in mind that your own resolution to success is more

important than any other one thing.

Abraham Lincoln

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<> <> <> <> <> FEATURE ARTICLE <> <> <> <> <>

Polishing Your Act

By Bradney W. Simon

Many jewelers see polishing as a mundane task. However, it is

one of the most important operations in the process of repairing

or making jewelry. The final appearance of the jewelry, to large

extent, will determine the acceptability of the work by the

customer. Although a good polish cannot cover-up poor

workmanship, a poor polish will make even the most expert

workmanship look sloppy.

Buffing and polishing are the two procedures to produce the final

high luster on jewelry. Although often used interchangeably

these are two separate operations.

Buffing is an abrasive process where a small amount of the

surface is removed. Tripoli is the most commonly used

compound for buffing. It will remove minor scratches left from

sanding and smooth out all surfaces. However, it will not bright

polish.

The final high luster is achieved by polishing. Polishing uses

harder compounds such as rouge. Varieties of rouges are

available for different uses and are distinguished by their color.

Yellow rouge is fast becoming the preferred rouge for gold, as it

is less messy than the traditional red rouge. With rouge, there is

almost no cutting action; it burnishes the metal, moving the

surface layer around to smooth the fine scratches left from

buffing.

NEVER mix the rouge and tripoli buffs. You can easily

contaminate the rouge buff. Once contaminated with even a

slight amount of tripoli, the rouge buff will not produce its normal

mirror finish. Always wipe or wash off the jewelry and your

hands after using the tripoli buff. It is possible to "carry over"

tripoli on the jewelry to the rouge buff.

A discussion of the polishing motor should begin with a warning

to respect its capability for inflicting serious personal injury, as

well as damage to the article of jewelry. Because the buff

wheels are so soft, it is hard to imagine that they can do any

damage. This misconception can lead to problems unless you

follow certain procedures.

Probably more fingers have been broken or cut off, as well as

other serious injuries, while polishing than in all other jewelry

related procedures combined. The spinning buffs have a

tendency to snatch at anything they encounter. The down draft

created by the blower may pull loose clothing or hair into the

wheel. The following procedures will help you produce a

professional looking finish and minimize the risk of personal

injury.

Always work just below the center of the buff wheel. Never raise

the jewelry above a horizontal line even with the motor spindle,

or lower it too far below. Both of these situations will cause the

wheel to grab the item from your hand.

Press your work firmly against the wheel so that you feel the

cutting action. However, never press so hard that the motor

slows down. Excessive pressure will not give a better polish or

polish faster. Light pressure is also ineffective. A firm even

pressure throughout the operation is preferred.

Do not use too much tripoli or rouge on the wheels. It is not

necessary to apply more compounds each time the buff is used.

Apply the compounds when the results indicate it is necessary.

Move the jewelry constantly. Holding it for too long in one

position may cut undesirable grooves in the metal. The

excessive cutting may also remove details and change the

shape. Press the jewelry against the wheel, then move it

downward, sideways, roll, rotate, and position it so that the wheel

reaches all possible areas of the metal. Then all areas will

receive uniform polish, and the cross buffing will result in a

higher shine.

Buff solder joints across the joint rather than with it. Solder is

softer than the surrounding metal. If you buff with the joint, the

solder will polish away quicker, leaving a groove in the metal.

Always hold the jewelry in a breakaway grip. Never interlock

your fingers into the piece. Never put a ring on your finger to

polish.

Tie long hair back so that it cannot tangle up in the wheel.

Always roll up or button your sleeves, and wear an apron or

smock to keep loose clothing away from the wheels.

Use a face shield on the dust collector or wear goggles. The

buffing room is no place for vanity, your eyesight is far more

important.

Protect your lungs. Always wear a respirator. (The same

applies to lungs as eyesight.)

Place a cardboard or carpet pad under the wheels to protect the

jewelry from possible damage if pulled out of your hands.

Never take the wheel for granted. Always keep your mind on

what you are doing while polishing. If interrupted, stop polishing

and turn the machine off. Then come back when you can

concentrate on polishing.

Never leave the machine running when you are not in front of it;

not even for a few seconds.

Always use a dust collector to keep the dust from blowing around

the shop. The money received from the refiner will pay for it in a

short time.

A more intricate, controlled polish may be prepared using the

flexible shaft. An analogy can be made to mowing lawns. The

polishing machine is to polishing what a lawnmower is to cutting

grass and the flex-shaft is comparable to a trimmer. You can

mow your lawn with a lawnmower with out using a trimmer, but

the edges of the lawn are left ragged. You could also mow the

entire lawn with just the trimmer. However, the results would be

uneven and choppy, not to mention it would take a very long

time. For a professionally looking lawn, you need to use both the

lawnmower and trimmer.

For a professional looking finish, you need to start with the

flex-shaft. Its small wheels and brushes will allow you to polish

prongs and other delicate areas without damage, and reach

areas inaccessible with the larger wheels. Then buffing and

polishing on the larger polishing machine will result in a smooth

even high luster, the work of a true jewelry professional.

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<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

What small potatoes we all are, compared with what we might

be!

Charles Dudley Warner

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<> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>

MENTAL PATIENT MAKES $50,000 a year TWISTING WIRE!!!

Yes, it's true and I can show you how to make wire jewelry and

do the same thing. You can make money right from your kitchen

table making wire jewelry and still keep your day job.

Please send a blank email to

mailto:wireworker@royal-responder.com

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<> <> <> <> <> STEWART'S BENCH TIPS <> <> <> <> <>

Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers

http://www.stewartsintlschool.com/

SIZING SILVER RINGS WITH STONES

By Jim Stewart

To protect a stone when sizing a silver ring, I recommend that

you remove the stone to be SAFE. If you leave the stone in the

mounting, cover the stone with a commercial thermal shield

paste. You can also cover the stone with sand moistened with

water. Cover the stone but do not cover too much of the ring as

it will absorb too much of the heat.

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<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

The key to everything is patience. You get the chicken by

hatching the egg - not by smashing it.

Arnold Glasow

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<> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>

At the Bench: New Book from MJSA/AJM Press

Featuring more than 200 full-color photographs, this essential

bench resource offers step-by-step guides to common—and not

so common—repair and fabrication techniques for gold and

silver jewelry. It also offers basic bench preparation and

practices (including tips for organizing tools and prioritizing work

flow), a guide to taking in repairs, and step-by-step projects

ranging from resizing two-tone rings to setting fancy shapes,

from building a bracelet hinge to basic chasing and repoussé.

Published by MJSA/AJM Press, a division of Manufacturing

Jewelers & Suppliers of America.

Visit http://www.ajm-magazine.com/atb/index.htm for a preview.

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<> <> <> <> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <> <> <> <>

Tips for working on Platinum from Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ,

director of technical education for Platinum Guild International

http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com

Platinum /Cobalt alloy is slightly ferro-magnetic. This Pt950 alloy

has very good flow characteristics and is a superior platinum

casting alloy. With its good hardness, it takes on a great polish.

The best way to size a Platinum /Cobalt alloy ring is soldering

with 1700 solder. Roll the solder paper-thin, wedge it into a very

well fitting seam and heat. The seam should be very, very thin.

Now use a file to remove excess solder, and BURNISH the seam

with a Tungsten burnisher. This should remove all traces of the

seam. Now polish and clean the ring.

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<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

You may delay, but time will not.

Benjamin Franklin

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<> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>

Turn Your Computer into a Multi-Media Training Center

From the publisher of E-BENCH and BENCH Magazine comes

an exciting new educational product – BENCH ROM

The Multi-Media Training Experience for Bench Jewelers.

BENCH ROM is a complete multi-media educational experience

presented on CD ROM. Each annual subscription includes four

CD ROMs providing you quality instruction right in your shop,

with over 40 minutes of video showing the actual work in

progress in each issue. BENCH ROM is fully interactive allowing

you to review only the sections that you want. In addition, an

article you can print accompanies each project to review at your

bench. Each Quarterly Issue is packed with information on

Stone Setting, Jewelry Repair, Custom Jewelry Manufacturing,

and BENCH TIPS!

Don’t just read about it in an article

See the Actual Work Performed by Master Jewelers

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For more information or to subscribe log onto:

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BENCH ROM is the Affordable Alternative

to Learning New Skills and Developing Your Career

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<> <> <> <> <> <> FAVORITE TIPS <> <> <> <> <> <>

To solder closed a link in a hollow link bracelet, take a small

section of wire that matches the color and karat of the bracelet

link. Use a wire diameter that will semi-snuggly fit inside the link.

Then, place some paste solder in each end of the link and insert

the wire. Gently hold the link closed and heat until the solder

melts. The wire will provide more surface area for the solder to

flow to make a stronger joint.

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To make certain prongs are down tight on the crown of the

stone, hold the mounting at eye level and turn so that you are

looking at the prong from the side view. Then, hold your index

finger about 1” above the stone. This will shield direct light from

the stone, causing a silhouette of the stone and prong. Then,

you can easily see light coming through any gaps between the

stone and prong. If you cannot see any light between the crown

of the stone and the prong, your prongs are down tight and no

further tightening is necessary. Taping a 3 X 5 white index card

on the wall in front of your bench helps too as it provides a light

background to hold the stone in front of for viewing.

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The key to productivity is NOT working faster but working more

efficiently.

To increase productivity find areas of wasted time and work to

minimize or eliminate it.

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Before bead setting stones, properly measure the thickness of

your metal. At a minimum, the metal should be as thick as the

distance between the girdle and the culet. If the metal is too thin,

you will not have enough metal to get a good bead.

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Place a doormat in the doorway of the shop. Employees can

wipe their feet on it as they leave the shop. This will help in

removing particles of precious metal off the soles of their shoes.

Replace the mat annually and send the old mat to the refiner

with the polishing waste.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

When doing a re-mount, always weigh stones while loose and

mark their weight on the envelope. Do this even if an appraisal

is not requested at the time of re-mounting, as the customer may

ask for one later and the appraiser will need this record of the

stone weights when doing the appraisal.

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Small objects can be held with pliers or a ring clamp. A small

pair of vice grip pliers is a useful tool to hold small parts while

filing. File the teeth off the jaws before using so that you will not

mar the item you are holding.

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When drilling, periodically pull the drill bit up out of the metal.

This will clear any metal chips from the hole. In addition, the drill

bit spinning freely in the air will help keep it cool.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it

in an e-mail to mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com

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<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

Everyone should be quick to listen, slow to speak, and slow to

become angry.

James 1:19

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<> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>

Jewelry Dealers World Trade Network

http://www.JewelryDealersNetwork.com/

<> <> <> Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel <> <> <>

Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the on going

discussions, or just read and take in all the advice from many

Excellent Jewelers from around the world.

Membership includes: Many topical Discussion Channels,

Plus you may buy, sell and trade on the Buy/Sell Channels, Plus

Much More.

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<> <> <> <> <> GERRY’S GEMZ <> <> <> <> <>

Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting

http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com/index.html

By Gerald N. Lewy

Place all of your burrs on a plastic peg-board and in sizes from

small to large. In this way you will find the exact size you need

just by looking for it.

Clean off your bench-filings daily, as it is hard to locate a small

diamond amidst all of the gold dust. I once had a fingernail

removed because of some gold dust that caused gangrene.

Darken all of your bench tops, as this will reduce all of the

"reflective light" and its 'glare'.

See that all of your gravers are in top shape, so when you need

one, it is ready for your use.

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<> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>

SIMON SEZ SEMINARS

Bradney W. Simon is a JA Certified Master Bench Jeweler with

over 25 years experience on the bench. He is the Editor and

Publisher of E-BENCH, BENCH Magazine, and BENCH ROM,

and is an accomplished platform speaker, providing Keynote

Speeches, and Educational Seminars.

Topics include:
     Shop Management
     Bench Tips
     Jewelry Demonstrations

For information on having him speak for your organization, log

onto; http://www.BWSimon.com/SimonSez Seminars

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<> <> <> <> <> TIPS FOR JEWELERS <> <> <> <> <>

Bench Tips From Charles Lewton-Brian

Drawplates with larger size holes are essential for making tubing.

They should be steel and are rather expensive. For occasional

use, a wooden draw plate, brass, delrin or nylon may be used.

All you need are tapered holes in the plate. While one can draw

tubing by hand, in the larger sizes and thicker walls, it is pleasant

to have a draw bench for the extra force that is required.

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<> <> <> <> <> Thank You for Reading <> <> <> <> <>

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Visit us at http://www.BWSimon.com

A complete archive of back issues of E-BENCH is located there.

Visit often, as we will be making changes to our site,
adding additional useful information for bench jewelers.

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< < < < < <> > > > > >

Information provided in this document is provided ‘As Is’ without
warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied. This
publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative
information concerning the subject matter covered. It is provided
with the understanding that the author or publisher is not
engaged in rendering legal, accounting, or other professional
services. If legal advice or other expert assistance is required,
the services of a competent professional person should be
sought.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

For editorial suggestions, comments, ideas or requests,
please send an E-Mail to Bradney W. Simon
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