E-BENCH Volume 3 Issue 2

<> <> <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <> <>

A New Method of Learning in a New Millennium

February 2002
Volume 3 Issue 2 circulation over 1,500

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

WE HAVE MOVED

Our offices are now located at:

B W Simon
106 South Pinepoint Dr.

Spartanburg, SC 29302

NEW Telephone Number:

864 – 680 - 4416

<> <> <> <> ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER <> <> <> <>

E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for
Retail Jewelry Store Owners, Shop Managers, Bench Jewelers,
and Anyone Else That Is Interested.

We encourage you to forward this newsletter to anyone that you
think may benefit from it, provided that you forward all of it
without modification and not just portions of it. This document
may NOT be distributed for profit. E-BENCH is a copyrighted
newsletter and all rights are reserved!

We assure you that your email address is kept strictly
confidential and is not shared with anyone for any reason.

E-BENCH is sent to you each month FREE of charge

because of the generous support of our SPONSORS.

Please support them with your purchases.

Thanks – Bradney W. Simon CMBJ, CMP

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> PLATINUM SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>

If You Like E-Bench

YOU WILL LOVE BENCH MAGAZINE

A New Print Magazine For Bench Jewelers

BENCH Magazine, a new quarterly publication from B W Simon,

is Written BY Bench Jewelers FOR Bench Jewelers. Each issue

is filled with high-quality instructional articles by working jewelers

who are masters of their craft; enhanced by line drawings, color

renderings, or photographs.

From Basic Techniques to Advanced Applications -
From Centuries Old Procedures to the Latest in Technological

Advancements, BENCH Magazine provides accurate informative

instruction from Professional Bench Jewelers. In addition, each

issue contains a Bench Tip section where you can learn tricks of

the trade from the magazine staff and jewelers around the world.

Subscriptions are free to jewelers in the USA and Canada,

and only $40 per year for overseas delivery.

To subscribe go to http://www.BWSimon.com/BENCH

BENCH and E-BENCH - Training Jewelers Worldwide

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> TABLE OF CONTENTS <> <> <> <> <>

REVERE FINDING TIPS

Useful tips to help you find things in the studio from Revere

Academy of Jewelry Arts

FAVORITE TIPS

Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little easier
and more productive from Bradney W. Simon CMBJ and
E-BENCH Readers.

STEWART'S BENCH TIPS

Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers

FEATURE ARTICLE

Learn how to make you shop more profitable, a new technique,

or brush up on basic skills.

AT THE PLATINUM BENCH

Tips for working on Platinum from Platinum Guild International

GERRY’S GEMZ

Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> REVERE FINDING TIPS <> <> <> <> <>

Here are some useful tips to help you find things in the studio
from Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts

http://www.revereacademy.com/

Finding the Right Graver

By Alan Revere

Most jewelers and setters have a pile of loose gravers in a box or

on their bench top. Finding the right one can be time consuming

and frustrating. Make life easier on yourself by identifying the

graver on the end of the handle. First, use a slide caliper to

measure the width of each graver (I find this more useful than

relying on the inconsistent and arbitrary numbering system

gravers come with.) Write the size on the handle using a

permanent marker. Below the size, draw the shape; a "V" for

anglette gravers, "W" for Florentine, "U" for round, etc. and then

make a rack for your gravers. You can drill a number of holes in

a piece of wood or the edge of your bench, and stick the gravers

in with the handle sticking out, easily identified. Another option is

to make a wire mesh stand for your gravers by folding up a

section of heavy wire mesh into a rack or by fitting a piece of this

mesh into your drawer (if it is deep enough). When you have

time, go over each marking on the handles with a small round

bur, cutting into the wood and leaving deep lines that will outlast

a permanent marker. By grouping all the round gravers, flat

gravers, etc. in the rack and according to size, it will be a snap to

find that 1.3 mm flat graver when you need it, as well as all the

others.

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> <> GOLD SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> <>

“The Jeweler’s Tool of Choice”

Jewelry LaserStar Workstations

Crafford - LaserStar Technologies designs and manufacturers a

complete range of Nd:YAG pulse laser systems for retail and

manufacturing jewelers. LaserStar Workstations are 50

watt/class 1 systems ranging in power from 85 - 120 joules and

are ideal for a wide range of jewelry design, manufacturing, and

repair applications in gold, silver, and platinum. Crafford's team

of highly trained direct sales and bench jeweler applications

specialists are always available to review new applications,

share technical expertise, and provide service and technical

support from our Providence, RI USA manufacturing facility. All

LaserStar Workstations are Made In USA and comply with all

FDA (CDRH), CSA, UL, and CE certification guidelines for

safety. Four models of the LaserStar Workstation are available

to the jewelry marketplace. For more information please

reference our web site at

www.laserstar.net or www.crafford.com

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> <> FAVORITE TIPS <> <> <> <> <> <>

A small cotton buff for your flex-shaft can easily be made to

polish recesses and other areas that are small and difficult to

access. First, take an old ball bur small enough to fit into the

area. Then wrap cotton around the bur by holding the bur

against a small piece of cotton while turning slowly in your flex-

shaft. Apply rouge to the cotton and use to polish the area.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Over time the hinge on an adjustable shank can become loose

and the holes begin to wear oval allowing "play" on the hinge.

To alleviate this you CANNOT plug the hole by soldering a piece

of gold and re-drilling the hole. The shanks are assembled of

several pieces and the heat will ruin the shank. Instead re-drill

the hole with a slightly larger drill bit, then re-rivet the hinge with

a larger hinge pin.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Use a small ball of steel wool to apply oxidation solutions to large

areas.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Use a yellow highlight marker to color the label on yellow gold

paste solder. Then, while working it will be easy to distinguish

between the tubes of yellow and white paste solder.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

To straighten kinks in flat chains such as herringbone, lay the

chain out on a hard surface such as a formic counter top. Then

carefully roll across the kink with a wooden wallpaper seam

roller. Another method to use to remove kinks is to carefully

squeeze the chain between the jaws of flat nose pliers.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

To make certain prongs are down tight on the crown of the

stone, hold the stone at eye level. Then, hold your index finger

about 1” above the stone. This will shield direct light from the

stone, causing a silhouette of the stone and prong. Then, you

can easily see light coming through any gaps between the stone

and prong. If necessary, tape a 3 X 5 white index card on the

wall in front of your bench to provide a light background to hold

the stone in front of.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

To inlay gold into platinum first cut a groove into the platinum

with a bur. Then select a wire of gold smaller than the groove.

Using your torch, melt the gold into the groove fusing it to the

platinum. Because of the high melting point of platinum, you do

not have to be concerned about melting the platinum jewelry.

File the surface even and finish using emery papers.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it

in an e-mail to mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com

< < < < < <> > > > > >

If you like Favorite Tips then you’ll love Favorite Tip of the Day

a bench tip provided daily Monday through Friday on various

Internet web sites including:

http://www.jewelrydealersnetwork.com/

http://www.polygon.net/

http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/orchid.htm

If you know of a jewelers’ bulletin board or discussion channel

that you would like to see Favorite Tip of the Day posted on,

have the administrator contact me at Brad@BWSimon.com

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

The most important single ingredient to the formula of

success is knowing how to get along with people.

Teddy Roosevelt

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> STEWART'S BENCH TIPS <> <> <> <> <>

Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers

http://www.stewartsintlschool.com/

KEEPING SEAMS FOR SHOWING IN PLATINUM

By Jim Stewart

Some platinum rings are lightly rhodium plated and when you

weld, the rhodium is absorbed into the joint and causes

discoloration. I recommend you emery off the rhodium plating on

the shank before you weld. Also, when sizing down, cut a small

piece from the ring sizing stock because it will be the same metal

as the ring. Hammer thin and make sure the face of your

hammer is clean. Use this thin piece as FILLER MATERIAL

when welding your platinum ring.

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

Ability is what you’re capable of doing.

Motivation determines what you do.

Attitude determines how well you do it.

Lou Holtz

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> <> GOLD SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> <>

SIMON SEZ SEMINARS

Bradney W. Simon is an accomplished platform speaker,

providing Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars.

Topics include:
     Shop Management
     Bench Tips
     Jewelry Demonstrations

For information on having him speak for your organization log

onto; http://www.BWSimon.com/SimonSez Seminars

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> FEATURE ARTICLE <> <> <> <> <>

CHAIN REACTION

By Bradney W. Simon CMBJ

Repairing broken chains is one of the two most often performed

jobs in the shop. (Sizing rings is the other) The difficulty of

chain repair lies in the fact that the chain is made up of fine

wires. These wires heat up quickly when trying to melt the

solder. Two problems can develop. The first is if the wire link

gets too hot, it will quickly melt as you are trying to solder. When

a link melts it forms a small ball of gold fused onto the next link.

This of course melts forming a larger ball on the next link. This

then melts forming a larger ball, etc. It is a chain reaction.

The other problem is, if too long a section of chain is heated, the

solder will flow from one link to the next. From there the solder

will flow to the next link on down the chain. It is that chain

reaction thing again. This will cause several links to solder

together forming a stiff place in the chain.

Both of these reactions by the chain result in an unsatisfactory

repair.

Jewelers have devised many ways to over-come these

problems. They include coating the chain with an anti-flux such

as yellow ocher or white out, and covering the chain with a heat

sink such as a washer, razor blade, or coins. My preferred

method is to use paste solder and to master the art of torch

control.

The method to repair a chain using paste solder is as follows.

Inspect the Chain

Look over the chain to ascertain how the links are put together.

In order to re-assemble the chain where it is broken you must

know how the links are assembled. At this point look for other

areas in the chain that need repairs. Although the salesperson

taking in the repair should have already done this, it is a good

idea to double-check their work.

Remove Damaged Links

Trim off any damaged links from the broken ends of the chain.

Cut End Links

The end link needs to be cut in order to re-assemble the chain.

Some chains require you to cut one or two links on each side.

The number depends on how the chain is assembled. You can

cut the links with a fine saw blade, small end cutters, or a cut-off

wheel in your flex shaft.

Re-Assemble the Chain

Lay the chain on a clean ceramic soldering board. Using your

tweezers fit the two ends of the chain back together. Then

squeeze the links closed. Once assembled it is often difficult to

find the break in the chain. To help you find the break, mark the

broken links with a felt tip marker before assembly. On some

chains like rope chains you can add the solder to the broken link

before assembly.

Another method to help you locate the break in the chain is to cut

a line down the center of a ceramic soldering board using a cut-

off wheel in your flex-shaft or with the edge of a diamond file.

Then, lay the chain on the soldering board placing the broken

link over this line. With this method you can lay out several

chains about 1" apart. Then start at one end of the solder board

and solder the first chain, and then proceed to the next one.

With all the chains laid out, you can quickly solder each one and

the line shows you where to solder, with no time wasted trying to

find the correct link.

Add the Solder

Apply a small amount of paste solder to the joint. Do not coat

the chain with boric acid. The flux in the paste solder is all that is

needed for the solder to flow. The slight oxidation on the chain

from the heat will help keep the solder from flowing to the other

links.

Heat the Chain

With a small pointed (oxidizing) flame heat the ceramic soldering

pad next to the joint in the chain. Do not use a bushy (reducing)

flame as you will heat too much of the chain. On most chains,

you will not need to place the flame directly on the chain. Place

the flame on the solder pad and let the reflected heat melt the

solder. This will help you from melting the chain. On larger

chains, heat the solder pad on one side of the chain, then quickly

move the flame across the chain to the other side. Heat the pad

on this side and then move back across the chain. Repeat the

process if the solder has not completely flowed. However never

direct the flame on the chain for any length of time. Move it

quickly across the joint and heat the solder pad allowing the

reflected heat to melt the solder.

Clean the Chain

When cool, hold the joint of the chain on your bench pin and

clean off all flux and oxidation with a scratch brush. A brass

brush or a small satin finish brush in your flex-shaft works well.

The new 3M Radial Bristle Discs are excellent for this purpose. I

prefer the blue wheels and stack 4 to 6 on my mandrel at one

time. Pickling the chain before doing this can help, but is often

not necessary.

Polish the Chain

DO NOT Polish Chains On A Polishing Machine. I do not know

of any other procedure in the shop that has cut and broken more

fingers than a chain that becomes tangled around a polishing

wheel (not to mention the expense of replacing a customer’s

chain). Polishing machines loves chains. They eat them up.

Come near a polishing machine with a chain and it will snatch it

right out of your hand and wrap it around its wheel and arbor.

To polish, lay the chain across your bench pin. Then hold the

chain down tight with your thumb and index finger. With a bristle

brush in your flex shaft polish at medium speed the area of chain

between your thumb and finger. Polish the chain little by little in

this manner. It is a safe and efficient means to accomplish the

task.

If properly repaired, your customer will return with a different

chain for you to repair, and then a third. Eventually they will

return to purchase jewelry. Now, that is a chain reaction we can

all live with.

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

Do nothing from selfishness or empty conceit, but with humility of

mind let each of you regard one another as more important than

himself; do not merely look out for your own personal interest,

but also for the interest of others.

Philippians 2: 3-4

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <> <> <> <>

Tips for working on Platinum from Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ

director of technical education for Platinum Guild International

http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com/

JOINING PLATINUM TO GOLD

If platinum is being joined to karat gold, it is important to finish

the platinum segment completely prior to assembly. Failure to

do this will result in the over-polishing of the karat gold

component. Platinum will not oxidize during brazing / welding.

Therefore, the platinum finish will not be altered by the process.

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

The last of the human freedoms is to choose one’s attitude in

any given set of circumstances.

Victor Frankl

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> GERRY’S GEMZ <> <> <> <> <>

Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting

http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com/index.html

THE GREATEST GIFT

by Gerald N. Lewy

The greatest gift possible is in knowing this one word:

Communication. It can be a lifesaver; it makes the job at hand

easier to follow!

Write out the full job description; give proper details of metals

needed, number of stones, etc. Write out the accurate style of

setting and placement of the stones. Write out the delivery date

and when it is needed back.

Life is too short to leave so much emphasis on the unknown

factors or presumption of instructions..."I thought you knew what

I meant...!"

Jewelers don't have the gift of reading minds.

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> SILVER SPONSORS <> <> <> <> <>

Namano / Southeastern Findings

Service to the Manufacturing Jeweler

We are Findings, Diamonds, Wedding Bands, Jewelry Boxes,

Platinum, Batteries, Tools, and So Much More.

Greater Selection - Expanded Inventory - No Minimum Order

Call 1-800-282-8285 or visit us on the World Wide Web

http://www.sefindings.com

< < < < < <> > > > > >

                       Agate Cameos, Gems, Tools, Wire

                         Free Newsletter on supply deals
                           preston@wire-sculpture.com

    Preston J. Reuther Master Wire Sculptor
    http://www.wire-sculpture.com/
    preston@wire-sculpture.com
     601-636-0600

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Jewelry Dealers World Trade Network

http://www.JewelryDealersNetwork.com/

<> <> <> Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel <> <> <>

Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the on going

discussions, or just read and take in all the advice from many

Excellent Jewelers from around the world.

Membership includes: Many topical Discussion Channels,

Plus you may buy, sell and trade on the Buy/Sell Channels, Plus

Much More.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Place Your Ad Here

Over 1,500 Bench Jewelers will see your message, plus it will

remain in our permanent archive at www.BWSimon.com

For Information and rates on placing an Ad Go to:

http://bwsimon.com/E-BENCH/E-BenchSponsors.htm

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> Thank You for Reading <> <> <> <> <>

We are on the World Wide Web.
Visit us at http://www.BWSimon.com

A complete archive of back issues of E-BENCH is located there.

Visit often, as we will be making changes to our site,
adding additional useful information for bench jewelers.

<> <> <> SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION <> <> <>

We value every subscriber and respect your privacy.

We do not sell, rent, or otherwise disclose our list of subscribers
for any reason. Your Email Address Is Kept Strictly Confidential.

To subscribe, send an E-Mail with Subscribe as the subject

mailto:E-BENCH@BWSimon.com?subject=Subscribe

If you do not wish to continue receiving this newsletter, send an
E-Mail with Unsubscribe as the subject

mailto:E-BENCH@BWSimon.com?subject=Unsubscribe

If you change your e-mail address, PLEASE let us know. Each
month we have several newsletters returned to us because the
e-mail address is no longer in service. We have no alternative
method of contacting you, and cannot send you future issues
unless you notify us of your new e-mail address.

mailto:E-Bench@BWSimon.com

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Information provided in this document is provided ‘As Is’ without
warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied. This
publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative
information concerning the subject matter covered. It is provided
with the understanding that the author or publisher is not
engaged in rendering legal, accounting, or other professional
services. If legal advice or other expert assistance is required,
the services of a competent professional person should be
sought.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

For editorial suggestions, comments, ideas or requests,
please send an E-Mail to Bradney W. Simon
mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com

B W Simon
106 South Pinepoint Dr.
Spartanburg, SC 2930
864 - 680 - 4416
http://www.BWSimon.com

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Back to E-BENCH