E-BENCH Volume 3 Issue 5

<> <> <> <> <> <> <> E-BENCH <> <> <> <> <> <> <>

A New Method of Learning in a New Millennium

May 2002
Volume 3 Issue 5 circulation over 1,700

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER <> <> <> <>

E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for
Retail Jewelry Store Owners, Shop Managers, Bench Jewelers,
and Anyone Else That Is Interested.

We encourage you to forward this newsletter to anyone that you
think may benefit from it, provided that you forward all of it
without modification and not just portions of it. This document
may NOT be distributed for profit. E-BENCH is a copyrighted
newsletter and all rights are reserved!

We assure you that your email address is kept strictly
confidential and is not shared with anyone for any reason.

E-BENCH is sent to you each month FREE of charge

because of the generous support of our SPONSORS.

Please support them with your purchases.

E-BENCH is a BENCH MEDIA Publication

BENCH MEDIA is a division of B W Simon

Bradney W Simon – Publisher
Daniel Spirer - Proofreader

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> PLATINUM SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <>

If You Like E-Bench

YOU WILL LOVE BENCH MAGAZINE

A New Print Magazine For Bench Jewelers

BENCH Magazine, a new quarterly publication from B W Simon,

Is Written BY Bench Jewelers FOR Bench Jewelers. Each issue

is filled with high-quality instructional articles by working jewelers

who are masters of their craft; enhanced by line drawings, color

renderings, or photographs.

From Basic Techniques to Advanced Applications -
From Centuries Old Procedures to the Latest in Technological

Advancements, BENCH Magazine provides accurate informative

instruction from Professional Bench Jewelers. In addition, each

issue contains a Bench Tip section where you can learn tricks of

the trade from the magazine staff and jewelers around the world.

Subscriptions are free to jewelers in the USA and Canada,

and only $40 per year for overseas delivery.

To subscribe go to http://www.BWSimon.com/BENCH

BENCH and E-BENCH - Training Jewelers Worldwide

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> TABLE OF CONTENTS <> <> <> <> <>

REVERE FINDING TIPS

Useful tips to help you find things in the studio from Revere

Academy of Jewelry Arts

FEATURE ARTICLE

Learn how to make your shop more profitable, a new technique,

or brush up on basic skills.

STEWART'S BENCH TIPS

Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers

AT THE PLATINUM BENCH

Tips for working on Platinum from Platinum Guild International

FAVORITE TIPS

Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench a little easier
and more productive from Bradney W. Simon CMBJ and
E-BENCH Readers.

GERRY’S GEMZ

Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> REVERE FINDING TIPS <> <> <> <> <>

Here are some useful tips to help you find things in the studio
from Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts

http://www.revereacademy.com/

FINDING YOUR CHUCK KEY

By Alan Revere

The snazziest system I have seen to find your chuck key is

mounting one of those retractable spring gadgets that hold a ring

of keys on your belt (sometimes known as a Keyback or key

caddy), under your bench top. Instead of keys, attach your

chuck key. Now it is always exactly where you left it.

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

If you want to move your greatest obstacle, realize that the

obstacle is yourself – and that the time to act is now!

Nido Qubein

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> <> GOLD SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> <>

“The Jeweler’s Tool of Choice”

Jewelry LaserStar Workstations

Crafford - LaserStar Technologies designs and manufacturers a

complete range of Nd:YAG pulse laser systems for retail and

manufacturing jewelers. LaserStar Workstations are 50

watt/class 1 systems ranging in power from 85 - 120 joules and

are ideal for a wide range of jewelry design, manufacturing, and

repair applications in gold, silver, and platinum. Crafford's team

of highly trained direct sales and bench jeweler applications

specialists are always available to review new applications,

share technical expertise, and provide service and technical

support from our Providence, RI USA manufacturing facility. All

LaserStar Workstations are made in the USA and comply with all

FDA (CDRH), CSA, UL, and CE certification guidelines for

safety. Four models of the LaserStar Workstation are available

to the jewelry marketplace. For more information please

reference our web site at

www.laserstar.net or www.crafford.com

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> FEATURE ARTICLE <> <> <> <> <>

Bead It!

By Bradney W. Simon CMBJ

Bench Jewelers often use different methods to accomplish the

same work. I believe the end results are what is important, not

the method used to get there. In jewelry work the ends often

justifies the means.

This is not more evident than in bead setting. I know jewelers

who cut the seat with round, bud, cone, setting, heart, or bearing

burs. Then they cut the excess metal away with flat, knife, or

onglette gravers, or they use heart, wheel, round, or knife edge

burs. Some even use needle files or saw blades.

Over the years, I have taken a number of different ideas from a

variety of jewelers and developed a method that works well for

me. That is what I believe is important. Jewelers need to

develop a method that works well for them.

Sometimes the jewelry and stones being set dictate different

techniques to use. However, the following is the method I use

most often.

Layout

To lay out the diamonds, place a thin coat of wax over the metal.

Then place the stones table down on the metal. The wax will

keep them from falling off. You can try several arrangements of

the stones to find a pattern that works best. On a curved surface,

space the stones further apart. When setting down in the metal,

they will come closer together.

Next, take a small tray or tin and fill the bottom with wax. With

the point of a tweezers, draw the shape of the metal plate. The

stones can then be placed in this tray in the same position as on

the jewelry. Then, when setting them, they will fit the same way

you laid them out.

Carefully lift the stones from the jewelry and place them in their

position in the tray. After you remove each stone, mark the

metal where the center of that stone is to be. A #50 round

bottom graver work well for this. Later, when all the stones are

removed, you can go back over these marks and make them

deeper to center your drill bit.

Drilling the Holes

Using a small drill bit (less than 1/2 the diameter of the stone)

drill a hole through the metal on each of your center marks. The

more accurately you drill, the less work you will have to do later.

Inspect your work to make certain the holes are all precisely

where the center of each stone is to be.

If any holes are off center, you will need to enlarge the hole to

center it. Take a krause bur and place in the hole. Then cut the

side of the hole towards the center of the stone. Once all the

holes are centered, re-drill the holes with a larger drill bit. Use a

drill bit 2/3 the diameter of the stone, and drill through the metal

exactly where the center of the stone is to be.

Cutting the Seat

Begin cutting the seat by using a setting bur. Select a bur that is

one size SMALLER than the stone. For example, for 2.5 mm

stones use a 2.3 mm bur. Cut the seat sufficiently deep enough,

to have plenty of metal to form the beads. A mistake many

beginning jewelers make is to cut the seat too shallow, not

allowing them to form adequate beads to hold the stones.

However, be careful when cutting that you do not cut all the way

through the metal. As a rule, cut the seat deep enough that the

table of the stone will set just below the plate surface.

If the metal is particularly thin, the following tip may help. When

cutting the preliminary seat, use a setting bur that is slightly dull.

Then, rather than cutting the metal away cleanly, it will push

some of the metal down. This metal will bulge down below the

plate supporting the stone.

Cutting Azures

Next, turn the jewelry over and clean up the back of the plate. If

the plate is thin, all you can do is scrape away any burs and

polish with a bristle brush. If the plate is thick enough, you need

to cut away some of the metal surrounding the holes. These

cuts are called azures. The easiest method is to cut a tapered

hole using a bud bur.

On finer jewelry you will want to cut a square or triangle shaped

tapered hole. The results look like bright cutting on the backside

of the jewelry. To begin, cut a tapered hole with a bud bur.

Then, using a hart bur held sideways cut your corners in each

hole. Next, use a small wheel bur to clean away the metal

between the corners. Then use a polished flat graver to clean up

and polish your cuts.

With a little practice, you can easily cut professional looking

azures in just a few minutes.

Removing Excess Metal

The next step is to remove excess metal from around the stones

and to rough out the bright cut. First, mark where the beads are

to be using a scribe or the point of a tweezers. Then using a

small (2 - 3 mm) hart bur held perpendicular to the metal begin

cutting the excess metal. Use the seat cut by the setting bur as

a depth gauge. Do not cut below this line. First, cut the metal

from between the stones. Then, cut around the outside forming

a 45° angle for the bright cut. Be very careful to not cut any of

the metal marked for the beads. If necessary, trim the metal left

for beads and clean up the cutting with a graver.

Finish Cutting the Seats

Select a hart bur the same size or slightly smaller than the stone.

Then, cut the seat for each stone by slightly undercutting the

metal left for beads. By cutting the seat in this manner, the bead

is already partially over the stone.

Setting the Stones

Remove the stones one at a time from the tray and lay it over its

corresponding seat. Inspect it to make certain it will fit and make

any necessary adjustments. Then, place one side of the stone in

its seat and push it in place using a brass pusher. Repeat the

process for each stone.

Forming the Beads

Next, push the beads down tight on the stones using a graver.

For most beads, place a round bottom graver at the base of the

bead and push it over the stone. Where a bar of metal is left

between two stones to form two beads, use a flat graver and cut

straight down. Wiggle the graver back and forth forming a bead

onto each stone. Where a triangle of metal is left between three

stones, use a round bottom graver. Push sideways on each tip

of the triangle pushing it over a stone (one tip over each stone).

Then use a beading tool to form the bead down tight on the

stones.

When all the stones are tight, clean up the beads with a graver.

Then shape them using a beading tool.

Bright Cut

Finally, go over all the remaining metal using a highly polished

flat bottom graver. Smooth out any rough places, using long

even cutting strokes. This will leave the metal polished. If

necessary polish with rouge only using a small bristle brush, and

finish the edge with a millgrain wheel.

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

A cheerful heart is good medicine

Proverbs 17:22

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> STEWART'S BENCH TIPS <> <> <> <> <>

Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School for Jewelers

http://www.stewartsintlschool.com/

KEEPING TOOLS FROM RUSTING

By Jim Stewart

Spray your steel tools regularly with CRC formula 6-56 multi-

purpose lubricant then wipe with a clean cloth. It removes rust

and protects against corrosion. You can buy it at marine

or electrical supply stores. Don't use WD-40, because the rust

will come back.

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

Nothing can stop the man with the right mental attitude from

achieving his goal; nothing on earth can help the man with the

wrong mental attitude.

Thomas Jefferson

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <> <> <> <>

Tips for working on Platinum from Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ,

director of technical education for Platinum Guild International

http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com/

SOLDERING VS WELDING PLATINUM

Soldering is usually required when you are working on a multi-

metal piece, such as an 18K and Platinum combination. The

metal with the lowest melting point dictates the method used.

When installing minor components to Platinum, such as findings,

soldering is preferred. Whenever you are sizing a ring and need

to use solder, use a 1700 seamless solder to do the task. Lower

temperature solders tend to show a seam.

Sizing a Platinum ring is normally done with the welding method,

as long as there are no stones nearby and the ring is made of

Platinum.

The exception here is Pt/Co, as cobalt oxidizes. To size a Pt/Co

ring, the 1700 seamless solder is recommended.

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> <> GOLD SPONSOR <> <> <> <> <> <>

SIMON SEZ SEMINARS

Bradney W. Simon is an accomplished platform speaker,

providing Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars.

Topics include:
     Shop Management
     Bench Tips
     Jewelry Demonstrations

For information on having him speak for your organization log

onto; http://www.BWSimon.com/SimonSez Seminars

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> <> FAVORITE TIPS <> <> <> <> <> <>

I use a plain old-fashioned wooden clothespin (with wire coil) to

clamp & hold pearls after gluing, as well as to clamp on the

bottom of rings to hold them upright to dry in a remote place on

my bench after applying ceramit or antiquing a ring.

I also want to add my thanks for your time & effort in making this,

the most valuable tool of all, available to all free of charge.

Steve Klepinger

< < < < < <> > > > > >

When bright cutting stones in a ring mounting that is going to

take more than the usual amount of pressure, take a small piece

of emery paper (maybe 11/2" or so) fold it in half and put it

around your ring shank before you put in your ring clamp. This

will help prevent it from slipping while you're doing your work,

especially if you have an older ring clamp.

Stephen Cowan

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Use a water pick (the kind used to clean your teeth) to clean

jewelry with colored stones that cannot be steam cleaned.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Use coffee filters to filter out dirt from plating solutions.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

To make certain prongs are down tight on the crown of the

stone, hold the mounting at eye level and turn so that you are

looking at the prong from the side view. Then, hold your index

finger about 1” above the stone. This will shield direct light from

the stone, causing a silhouette of the stone and prong. Then,

you can easily see light coming through any gaps between the

stone and prong. If you cannot see any light between the crown

of the stone and the prong, your prongs are down tight and no

further tightening is necessary. Taping a 3 X 5 white index card

on the wall in front of your bench helps as it provides a light

background to hold the stone in front of.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Use bent chain nose pliers to set stones with, instead of regular

chain nose pliers. Then, your hand and the body of the pliers will

be out of your line of sight, allowing you a better view of the work

you are doing.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

To keep a coin from turning in a coin frame with tabs, take a

piece of wire and roll it through a rolling mill. Then cut pieces to

wedge between the coin and frame under each tab. The length

and thickness of the piece depends on how loose the coin is, but

cut it at least three times the width of the tab. Then push the tab

over with a prong pusher. A brass pusher works well, but if

you’re concerned with slipping off and marring the coin a wooden

dowel rod in a graver handle would work or make a pusher from

a plastic handle from a tooth brush.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Gravers make excellent burnishers. A flat graver works wonders

on burnishing the edges of bezels and channels. Place the

graver in the same manner you would trim the edge of the bezel

or channel. Then pull backwards on the graver to burnish rather

than pushing forward to cut.

In addition, tips of polished gravers of various shapes can be

inserted into slits, cut outs, crevices, or any other tight spots and

rubbed back and forth to burnish the metal.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Schedule more difficult work requiring concentration during times

when the store is quiet. The chance for interruptions is

diminished during these times. Plan to work on simpler jobs

during times when the store is busier. Then interruptions will

have less effect on your productivity.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

If you have a tip you would like to share with our readers send it

in an e-mail to mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com

< < < < < <> > > > > >

If you like Favorite Tips then you’ll love Favorite Tip of the Day

a bench tip provided daily Monday through Friday on various

Internet web sites including:

http://www.jewelrydealersnetwork.com

http://www.polygon.net

http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/orchid.htm

If you know of a jewelers’ bulletin board or discussion channel

that you would like to see Favorite Tip of the Day posted on,

have the administrator contact me at Brad@BWSimon.com

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <> <> <> <>

If you want to conquer fear, don’t sit home and think about it. Go

out and get busy.

Dale Carnegie

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> GERRY’S GEMZ <> <> <> <> <>

Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting

http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com/index.html

By Gerald N. Lewy

Before placing a ring on a ring mandrel, take a few extra

moments and check with a loupe for the culet of any stones. If

any culet protrudes into the finger hole, slide the ring onto a

grooved mandrel.

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> SILVER SPONSORS <> <> <> <> <>

Namano / Southeastern Findings

Service to the Manufacturing Jeweler

We are Findings, Diamonds, Wedding Bands, Jewelry Boxes,

Platinum, Batteries, Tools, and So Much More.

Greater Selection - Expanded Inventory - No Minimum Order

Call 1-800-282-8285 or visit us on the World Wide Web

http://www.sefindings.com

< < < < < <> > > > > >

                       Agate Cameos, Gems, Tools, Wire

                         Free Newsletter on supply deals
                           preston@wire-sculpture.com

    Preston J. Reuther Master Wire Sculptor
    http://www.wire-sculpture.com
    preston@wire-sculpture.com
     601-636-0600

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Jewelry Dealers World Trade Network

http://www.JewelryDealersNetwork.com/

<> <> <> Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel <> <> <>

Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the on going

discussions, or just read and take in all the advice from many

Excellent Jewelers from around the world.

Membership includes: Many topical Discussion Channels,

Plus you may buy, sell and trade on the Buy/Sell Channels, Plus

Much More.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Place Your Ad Here

Over 1,500 Bench Jewelers will see your message, plus it will

remain in our permanent archive at www.BWSimon.com

For Information and rates on placing an Ad Go to:

http://bwsimon.com/E-BENCH/E-BenchSponsors.htm

(((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((())))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

<> <> <> <> <> Thank You for Reading <> <> <> <> <>

We are on the World Wide Web.
Visit us at http://www.BWSimon.com

A complete archive of back issues of E-BENCH is located there.

Visit often, as we will be making changes to our site,
adding additional useful information for bench jewelers.

<> <> <> SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION <> <> <>

We value every subscriber and respect your privacy.

We do not sell, rent, or otherwise disclose our list of subscribers
for any reason. Your Email Address Is Kept Strictly Confidential.

To subscribe, send an E-Mail with Subscribe as the subject

mailto:E-BENCH@BWSimon.com?subject=Subscribe

If you do not wish to continue receiving this newsletter, send an
E-Mail with Unsubscribe as the subject

mailto:E-BENCH@BWSimon.com?subject=Unsubscribe

If you change your e-mail address, PLEASE let us know. Each
month we have several newsletters returned to us because the
e-mail address is no longer in service. We have no alternative
method of contacting you, and cannot send you future issues
unless you notify us of your new e-mail address.

mailto:E-Bench@BWSimon.com

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Information provided in this document is provided ‘As Is’ without
warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied. This
publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative
information concerning the subject matter covered. It is provided
with the understanding that the author or publisher is not
engaged in rendering legal, accounting, or other professional
services. If legal advice or other expert assistance is required,
the services of a competent professional person should be
sought.

< < < < < <> > > > > >

For editorial suggestions, comments, ideas or requests,
please send an E-Mail to Bradney W. Simon
mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com

B W Simon
106 South Pinepoint Dr.
Spartanburg, SC 29302
864 - 680 - 4416
http://www.BWSimon.com

< < < < < <> > > > > >

Back to E-BENCH