Here is your next issue of E-BENCH.
Thanks for subscribing.
<=> <=> <=> <=> E-BENCH <=> <=> <=> <=>
The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers
October 2003
Volume 4 Issue 10 circulation
over 2,500
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER <=> <=>
E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for Retail
Jewelry Store Owners, Shop Managers, Bench
Jewelers and Anyone Else That Is Interested.
We encourage you to forward this newsletter to
anyone that you think may benefit from it,
provided you forward all of it without
modification and not just portions of it.
This document may NOT be distributed for
profit. E-BENCH is a copyrighted newsletter
and all rights are reserved!
We assure you that your email address is kept
strictly confidential and is not shared with
anyone for any reason.
E-BENCH is sent to you each month FREE of
charge because of the generous support of our
SPONSORS. Please support them with your
purchases.
E-BENCH is a BENCH MEDIA Publication
BENCH MEDIA is a B W Simon Company
Bradney W Simon – Publisher
Daniel Spirer - Proofreader
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> <=> TABLE OF CONTENTS <=> <=> <=>
REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS
Tips for Jewelers,
Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere
FEATURE ARTICLE
Learn how to make your shop more profitable, a
new technique, or brush up on basic skills.
STEWART'S BENCH TIPS
Bench Tips from
Stewart’s International School for Jewelers
AT THE PLATINUM BENCH
Tips for working on Platinum from
Platinum Guild International
FAVORITE TIPS
Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench
a little easier and more productive from
Bradney W. Simon CMBJ and E-BENCH Readers.
GERRY’S GEMZ
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS
Tips from Charles Lewton-Brian
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
“The Jeweler’s Tool of Choice”
Jewelry LaserStar Workstations
Crafford - LaserStar Technologies designs and
manufacturers a complete range of Nd: YAG pulse
laser systems for retail and manufacturing
jewelers. LaserStar Workstations are 50
watt/class 1 systems ranging in power from
85 – 120 joules and are ideal for a wide range
of jewelry design, manufacturing, and repair
applications in gold, silver, and platinum.
Crafford's team of highly trained direct sales
and bench jeweler applications specialists are
always available to review new applications,
share technical expertise, and provide service
and technical support from our Providence, RI
USA manufacturing facility. All LaserStar
Workstations are made in the USA and comply
with all FDA (CDRH), CSA, UL, and CE
certification guidelines for safety. Four
models of the LaserStar Workstation are
available to the jewelry marketplace. For more
information please reference our web site at
www.laserstar.net or www.crafford.com
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS <=> <=>
Tips for Jewelers Who Do Repairs
from Alan Revere
Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts
FINDING YOUR CHUCK KEY
By Alan Revere
The snazziest system I have seen to find your chuck key is mounting one of those retractable spring gadgets that hold a ring of keys on your belt (sometimes known as a Keyback or key caddy), under your bench top. Instead of keys, attach your chuck key. Now it is always exactly where you left it.
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
The older I get, the more wisdom I find in the ancient rule of taking first things first – a process which often reduces the most complex human problems to manageable proportions.
Dwight D. Eisenhower
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
SIMON SEZ SEMINARS
Bradney W. Simon is a JA Certified Master Bench
Jeweler with over 26 years experience on the
bench. He is the Editor and Publisher of
E-BENCH, BENCH Magazine, and BENCH ROM, and is
an accomplished platform speaker, providing
Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars.
Topics include:
Shop Management
Bench Tips
Jewelry Demonstrations
For information on having him speak for your
organization, log onto;
http://www.BWSimon.com/SimonSez Seminars
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> <=> FEATURE ARTICLE <=> <=> <=>
CUTTING AZURES
Azure is the American English derivative of the French term a jour or adjoure. An azure is a countersunk cutout on the back of a piece of jewelry, behind bead, channel, or flush set diamonds. Usually azures are a square or a triangle shape, resulting in what looks like bright cutting on the backside of the jewelry. It is an often neglected, important aspect of diamond setting.
Reasons for Cutting Azures
1. Allows light to enter the stone from the back. (With the modern cut of diamonds, this is no longer a major issue as it was 100 years ago)
2. Makes it easier to clean behind the stones.
3. Removes the burs left from drilling the hole.
4. Adds an additional design element to the jewelry.
5. Removes excess metal from the jewelry making the piece lighter in weight. This is of more importance in larger pieces of jewelry, especially earrings.
6. Provides the jewelry a professional looking finish.
The Traditional Method
Traditionally bench jewelers would either hand cut azures with a graver, or feed a saw blade through each hole and meticulously cut each opening. Although resulting in fine cut azures, both methods are extremely time consuming.
A Simpler Method
Many jewelers today cut azures using a bud or cone bur. This produces a round cone shaped cutout. This method is quick and easy, and it does remove the burs left from drilling and allows for easier cleaning behind the stones. Although better than no clean up at all, it does lack in adding a design element to the back of the jewelry. It also does not maximize the removal of metal to lighten the weight of the jewelry. This method should be seen as the minimum requirement, and should be avoided on finer, high-quality jewelry.
Cutting Azures Using Burs
Professional looking azures can be cut fairly easily using a combination of burs, in considerably less time than cutting by hand using gravers or a saw.
Cutting Azures with burs is an advanced technique. Only bench jewelers who have developed their skills of cutting with burs should attempt it. As with learning any new technique – practice cutting azures on a piece of scrap metal before attempting to use this technique on actual jewelry.
Although a square shaped cutout is most common, a number of different patterns or combination of patterns can be created with azures. Before beginning to cut the azures, sketch different pattern designs to find one that is most pleasing to you and fits the area of the jewelry. By combining triangular, square, pentagon, hexagon, or octagon shapes a variety of designs can be made.
To begin, cut a tapered hole with a bud bur in the backside of the hole drilled for the stone. Then, using a hart bur held perpendicular to the jewelry cut the corners in each hole. Start at the center of the hole and cut a line upwards to the surface to form each of the corners.
Next, use a small wheel bur to clean away the metal between the corners. Use the end face of the bur to cut the flat side of the azure. CAUTION: Make certain you hold the bur at an angle to the surface of the jewelry. Cutting straight down will remove the metal needed for the seat to hold the stone.
Then use a polished flat graver to clean up and polish your cuts. If necessary, a small bristle brush with rouge can be used to polish the azures. With a little practice, you can easily cut professional looking azures in just a few minutes.
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Education is not something to prepare you for life; it is a continuous part of life.
Henry Ford
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
Books from MJSA/AJM Press:
At the Bench and The Platinum Bench
Simplify your bench work!
The two award-winning books of MJSA/AJM Press,
The Platinum Bench
by Jurgen J. Maerz and At
the Bench by Gregg Todd and Greg Gilman,
feature a wealth of time-saving tips, and
illustrated, easy-to-follow instructions on the
repair and fabrication of gold, silver, and
platinum jewelry. Based on the popular At the
Bench section in AJM, both books feature
hundreds of photographs on everything from
simplified pave setting to easy 18k inlay in
platinum.
To download sample chapters, go to
http://www.mjsainc.com/info_press.php.
For more information, call 1-800-444-6572, ext.
3038.
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> STEWART'S BENCH TIPS <=> <=>
Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School
for Jewelers
http://www.stewartsintlschool.com/
REMOVING A DENT FROM HOLLOW JEWELRY
By Jim Stewart
There are many ways to remove a dent from hollow jewelry. One method is to pour water into an opening, filling it to the top. Then put tape over the end and put in your freezer. The water will expand when frozen pushing out on the dent. You may have to do this more than once to completely remove the dent. This also works in removing dents from candlestick holders.
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Bowmen bend their bows when they wish to shoot; unbrace them when the shooting is over. Were they kept always strung they would break and fail the archer in time of need. So it is with men. If they give themselves constantly to serious work, and never indulge a while in pastime or sport, they lose their senses and become mad.
Herodotus
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
Jewelry Dealers World Trade Network
http://www.JewelryDealersNetwork.com
<=> Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel <=> >
Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the
on going discussions, or just read and take in
all the advice from many Excellent Jewelers
from around the world.
Membership includes: Topical Discussion
Channels, including
Bench Work, CAD-CAM, Stone Setting, and many
more. You may buy, sell and trade on the
Buy/Sell Channels, Plus Much More.
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <=> <=>
Tips for working on Platinum from
Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ,
Director of Technical Education
for Platinum Guild International
http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com
SOLDERING VS WELDING PLATINUM
Soldering is usually required when you are working on a multi-metal piece, such as an 18K and platinum combination. The metal with the lowest melting point dictates the method used. When installing minor components to platinum, such as findings, soldering is preferred. Whenever you are sizing a ring and need to use solder, use a 1700 seamless solder to do the task. Lower temperature solders tend to show a seam.
Sizing a platinum ring is normally done with the welding method, as long as there are no stones nearby and the ring is made of platinum.
The exception here is Pt/Co, as cobalt oxidizes. To size a Pt/Co ring, the 1700 seamless solder is recommended.
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
A heart at peace gives life to the body, but envy rots the bones.
Proverbs 14: 30
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
BENCH ROM
The Multi-Media Magazine for Bench Jewelers
BENCH ROM is an affordable alternative to
learning new skills and developing your career.
Discover New Techniques
Learn New Tips to Improve Your Work
See New Products and Technologies Demonstrated
All right from your home or shop without having
to travel to a seminar or trade show.
“Bench Rom is great,” says jeweler Bill Scores
“It’s like being in the shop of a Master
Jeweler and watching over his shoulder.”
Log onto www.BWSimon.com/BenchRom for more
information or to subscribe
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> <=> FAVORITE TIPS <=> <=> <=>
When setting channel set anniversary bands, use pliers with one
half-round jaw and one flat jaw (the kind used to bend ring shanks while
sizing). Place the half-round jaw in
the finger hole of the ring and the flat jaw on the top of the channel. With the flat jaw of the pliers you can
smoothly squeeze down the channel onto the stones, and the half-round jaw will
not mar or nick the inside of the ring.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
After using cup burs to shape prongs on diamonds, the edge will
become worn down after a while. Keep
these older cup burs and use them on soft or fragile colored stones, then there
will be less chance of abrading the stone.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
Always weigh stones when loose and mark the weight on the envelope, even if an appraisal has not been requested. The customer may ask for one later. With a record of the weights, the appraiser will have them when doing the appraisal.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
To make a power burnisher, remove the screw from the end of a
flex-shaft mandrel. Insert a screw eye
in its place and solder together. To
use, place in your flex-shaft and hold the rotating screw eye against your metal. The edges of the screw eye will burnish any
soft metal, and you can watch your progress through its opening.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
The plastic coffee stirs from McDonalds make excellent paddles for
mixing epoxies - And the best part is you get one FREE with every cup of
coffee!
< < < < < <> > > > > >
When rounding out the rings from sizing, use a double face mallet,
brass on one side, nylon on the other.
Use the nylon side to straighten out the ring shank. Like a rawhide mallet it will bend the shank
but not stretch it. Then if the ring is
a little too small (quarter size or less) turn the hammer around in your hand
and tap across the seam with the brass side.
This saves time from putting down the rawhide mallet and picking up a
steel hammer and then going back to the rawhide mallet.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
If you have a tip you would like to share with
our readers send it in an e-mail to
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Never promise more than you can perform.
Publilius Syrus
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
The Ganoksin Project
www.ganoksin.com
The Gem and Jewelry Pre-Eminent Online
Resources. Open to the
public
Free of Charge.
A substantial library of articles,
publications, reports, and technical data on
gem and jewelry related topics; as well as a
sizable collection of art and jewelry
galleries, for both the casual visitor and the
professional, also host the popular Orchid
online forums for jewelers.
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> <=> GERRY’S GEMZ <=> <=> <=>
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com/index.html
by Gerald N. Lewy
Before placing a ring on a ring mandrel, take a few extra moments and check with a loupe for the culet of any stones. If any culet protrudes through the finger hole, slide the ring onto a grooved mandrel.
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
I find out what the world needs. Then I go ahead and try to invent it.
Thomas Edison
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo
Coming April 23 - 25 2004 to Chicago IL
Exciting New
Educational Conference and Supplier’s
Expo
Workshops – Seminars - Demonstrations –
Networking Opportunities - Exhibitor Show
All activities during this three day event will
be directed toward the Bench Jeweler,
Making This The One Show In 2004
That You Don’t Want To Miss
Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo presented by
Bench Media publisher of E-BENCH, BENCH
Magazine, and BENCH ROM
For More Information log onto:
www.BWSimon.com/Conference
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS <=> <=>
Workshop Safety Tips
From Charles Lewton-Brian
VENTILATION
There are dusts you can see in the air. It is, however, the smaller, completely invisible particles that are the most dangerous. These, especially fibrous or jagged ones like asbestos, cotton and silica, are stored between the air sacs of the lungs. That is, you breathe them in and they will never escape again. Once there, they cause scarring, thickening of tissues, eventually stressing the heart because it is more work to breathe. Cristobalite (a rather vicious form of silica) exposure is considered a real silicosis hazard. It is a major component of casting investment.
Fumes are small particles of a material, often from metals that have been melted. These may be very tiny and can be breathed deeply into the lungs. Metal fume fever can be a real problem with molten metals. Metal fume fever can be caused by zinc, copper, magnesium, aluminum, copper, antimony, cadmium, iron and silver.
Dilution ventilation is used in many shops, where you open a window next to you, and another one elsewhere, so that air passes you on its way out. Dilution ventilation is not generally an effective approach. What we really want most of the time is local ventilation, which means a sucking device, slot or tube very close to the working area that is generating the dust, mist or fumes so they are sucked away as they are produced: removed entirely from the workshop and vented safely (i.e. not near a makeup air intake).
If you think you need a respirator to do something, red flags should be waving in front of your eyes and alarm bells ringing in your mind. If you have to use a respirator, there is something seriously wrong with your ventilation system and working processes. When you take it off, whatever it was you were afraid of will still be there, as invisible dust (such as cristobalite investment) on all surfaces, so that merely walking past later will stir it up into the air so you can breathe it in. If you are using one, make sure it is correct for your face and for the dusts, chemicals and fumes you are protecting yourself from. Talk to your safety supply company representative, or better still several of them. It is easy to use the wrong respirator or to have an imperfect seal when you use it.
For more information on Workshop safety from
Charles Lewton-Brian log onto:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/safety.htm
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> Thank You for Reading <=> <=>
We are on the World Wide Web.
Visit us at http://www.BWSimon.com
A complete archive of back issues of E-BENCH is
located there.
Visit often, as we will be making changes to
our site, adding additional useful information
for bench jewelers.
<=> <=> SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION <=> <=>
We value every subscriber and respect your
privacy. We do not sell, rent, or otherwise
disclose our list of subscribers for any
reason. Your Email Address Is Kept Strictly
Confidential.
To subscribe, log onto:
http//www.BWSimon.com/E-Bench
If you do not wish to continue receiving this
newsletter
Reply to this message with UNSUBSCRIBE in the
subject line.
If you change your e-mail address, PLEASE let
us know. Each month we have several
newsletters returned to us because the e-mail
address is no longer in service. We have no
alternative method of contacting you, and
cannot send you future issues unless you notify
us of your new e-mail address.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
Information provided in this document is
provided ‘As Is’ without warranty of any kind,
either expressed or implied. This publication
is designed to provide accurate and
authoritative information concerning the
subject matter covered. It is provided with
the understanding that the author or publisher
is not engaged in rendering legal, accounting,
or other professional services. If legal
advice or other expert assistance is required,
the services of a competent professional person
should be sought.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
For editorial suggestions, comments, ideas
or requests, please send an E-Mail to
Bradney W. Simon mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com
Copyrighted, 2003, BENCH MEDIA.
All rights reserved.
BENCH MEDIA
106 South Pinepoint Dr.
Spartanburg, SC 29302
864 - 680 - 4416
http://www.BWSimon.com
< < < < < <> > > > > >