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<=> <=> <=> <=> E-BENCH <=> <=> <=> <=>
The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers
June 2003
Volume 4 Issue 6 circulation
over 2,400
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<=> <=> ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER <=> <=>
E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for Retail
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<=> <=> <=> TABLE OF CONTENTS <=> <=> <=>
REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS
Tips for Jewelers,
Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere
FEATURE ARTICLE
Learn how to make your shop more profitable, a
new technique, or brush up on basic skills.
STEWART'S BENCH TIPS
Bench Tips from
Stewart’s International School for Jewelers
AT THE PLATINUM BENCH
Tips for working on Platinum from
Platinum Guild International
FAVORITE TIPS
Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench
a little easier and more productive from
Bradney W. Simon CMBJ and E-BENCH Readers.
WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS
Tips from Charles Lewton-Brian
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<=> <=> REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS <=> <=>
Tips for Jewelers Who Do Repairs
from Alan Revere
Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts
Finding the Right Graver
By Alan Revere
Most jewelers and setters have a pile of loose
gravers in a box or on their bench top.
Finding the right one can be time consuming and
frustrating. Make life easier on yourself by
identifying the graver on the end of the
handle. First, use a slide caliper to measure
the width of each graver (I find this more
useful than relying on the inconsistent and
arbitrary numbering system gravers come with.)
Write the size on the handle using a permanent
marker. Below the size, draw the shape; a "V"
for anglette gravers, "W" for Florentine, "U"
for round, etc. and then make a rack for your
gravers. You can drill a number of holes in a
piece of wood or the edge of your bench, and
stick the gravers in with the handle sticking
out, easily identified. Or make a wire mesh
stand for your gravers by folding up a section
of heavy wire mesh into a rack or by fitting a
piece of this mesh into your drawer (if it is
deep enough). When you have time, go over each
marking on the handles with a small round bur,
cutting into the wood and leaving deep lines
that will outlast a permanent marker. By
grouping all the round gravers, flat gravers,
etc. in the rack and according to size, it will
be a snap to find that 1.3 mm flat graver when
you need it, as well as all the others.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Believe in yourself. You gain strength,
courage, and confidence by every experience in
which you stop to look fear in the face … You
must do that which you think you cannot do.
Eleanor Roosevelt
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
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<=> <=> <=> FEATURE ARTICLE <=> <=> <=>
Back To Basics- SAWING
By BRADNEY W. SIMON CMBJ
When legendary coach Vince Lombardi took over
the Green Bay Packers, he instituted training
in the basics. At the first meeting with the
players he held a football up in his hand and
said “Gentlemen this is a football.” This was
to a group of professional football players!
They had played football most of their lives.
If anybody knew what a football looked like it
was them. However, Coach Lombardi left nothing
to chance. To him, the team that won was the
team that performed the basics of football the
best. The team that blocked better, ran the
ball better, and tackled better than the other
team, usually won. His Packers won the first
two Super Bowls. In all sports, professional
athletes practice many of the same drills they
learned in youth leagues as a child. They know
practicing basic skills will allow them to
perform better at their level.
Working on jewelry, whether repairing or
creating a new piece, is no different. A bench
jeweler must perform basic skills with
precision in order to create excellent work.
Skills such as sawing, filing, soldering, and
polishing need to be mastered in order to
develop ones’ career as a jeweler. Over the
next few months I will be presenting a few of
these basic skills in a series called back to
basics. For the apprentice jeweler, these
articles will lay the foundation upon which the
skills of the trade can be built. For the
rest, these articles will serve as an important
review. At the jeweler’s bench, even the most
complicated task is a compilation of basic
skills performed with precision and accuracy.
Because of this, it is advantageous for all
jewelers, even the most advanced, to review and
practice the basics. This month we will cover
the basic skill of sawing.
The jeweler’s saw is one of the most widely
used tools at the jeweler’s bench. In the
hands of a skilled artisan, a saw can produce
the most intricate patterns or accurate
straight lines. It can also be used as a file
in small areas inaccessible by other tools. It
is important for a bench jeweler to master the
skills of sawing to perform quality
workmanship. These skills are not difficult
however to achieve precision, practice of
correct mechanics is required.
To begin cutting, place the metal on the bench
pin. Hold it firmly; if the metal slips the
blade will break. Rest the saw blade against
the metal’s edge and gently draw the blade
downward. The blade should begin to cut. If
it does not check the blade, as it may be the
wrong size for the metal being cut or it may be
installed upside down or backwards. There
should be at least two teeth in contact with
the metal at all times during the stroke, and
the teeth should point down towards the handle,
cutting on the down stroke. If the teeth point
upwards, remove the blade and turn it around.
Continue with a slow steady up and down rhythm
using the entire length of the blade. This
will allow you to saw faster and more
accurately. Short choppy strokes result in
uneven sawing and will prematurely wear out
that section of the blade, causing it to break.
On the downward stroke, a natural forward
movement provides sufficient pressure on the
blade. Too little pressure allows the teeth to
simply scrape the metal, which is ineffective.
Excessive forward or downward pressure will
cause the blade to break.
Release the forward pressure on the upward
return stroke. It only repositions the blade
for the next downward cutting stroke. Dragging
the teeth on the up stroke can cause the blade
to misshape and the teeth to wear unevenly.
Saw in front of the body and in a forward
direction. Some jewelers keep the saw in one
forward position and move the metal into the
saw. Others hold the metal steady and move the
saw in the desired direction. Still others
move both the metal and saw as necessary. With
a little practice, you will develop the most
natural method for you.
Sawing is most efficient when remaining relaxed
while sawing. Tensing muscles in the hand, arm
or shoulders cause fatigue and cramping. In
addition, unsatisfactory sawing will result.
The arm and shoulder should be loose and the
hand remaining relaxed. If necessary, adjust
your chair or body position in order to be
comfortable and relaxed while sawing.
Always saw on the waste side of the line. Cut
as close to the line as possible without
cutting into it. It is always better to leave
too much metal, which you can remove later,
than to cut away too much metal. With
experience, you will be able to cut right along
the line with no additional clean up needed
when finished.
As you saw, blow away metal filings that
accumulate. Then the cutting line remains
visible for more accurate cutting. Always pull
the lap tray out beneath the bench pin. This
will catch the filings from sawing. Collect
them and send them to a refiner for recovery.
To saw a straight line, tilt the saw forward slightly. Then the cut already made will help guide the blade, and it is easier to sight the straight line along the blade.
To saw curves, keep the blade perpendicular to
the metal. Tilting the saw forward while
rounding a curve will pinch the blade causing
it to break prematurely.
To make a sharp turn, continue the same up and
down rhythm without any forward pressure. Then
slowly rotate the metal around the moving
blade. On each downward stroke, make a slight
sideways cut until you reach the new direction.
Saw blades do wear out. When teeth are dulled
to the point where extra force must be used in
cutting, it is best to replace the blade.
Extra pressure decreases control; therefore,
nothing is gained by this economy.
Often saw blades break before they wear out, a
wasteful situation. This can be avoided or at
least minimized with proper sawing procedures.
The two main reasons for blades breaking are
too much force used while sawing, and pinching
the blade from twisting either the metal or the
saw frame.
DO NOT throw broken or worn out blades away.
Particles of gold become lodged in the teeth
during use. Place all old saw blades in the
container with the used polishing machine
filters to be refined. A good refiner can
reclaim this gold.
An excellent practice exercise is to cut out
pennies. Drill a hole in the background area
and thread the saw blade through. Cut around
the profile of Lincoln. Then saw around the
inside of the edge of the coin, forming a frame
around Lincoln’s head. Then examine your work
with a loupe or microscope to see areas for
improvement. IS the frame around the coin even
and sawed smoothly? Is all of the background
cut away or are there areas left around
Lincoln’s head? Is the nose or chin cut off?
If you find areas needing improvement, try the
exercise again and watch while sawing in those
areas to see where you can improve. Taking a
few minutes to saw one penny a day and working
to improve each coin you saw will help you
master this aspect of working at the jeweler’s
bench in a short period of time.
Precise sawing is important. It saves both
metal and time. When you perform accurate
sawing, very little, if any, filing is needed
to clean up your saw cuts. Following these
basic procedures and with a little practice,
one can easily master the art of using the
jeweler’s saw.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Plan for the future, because that is where you
are going to spend the rest of your life.
Mark Twain
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<=> <=> STEWART'S BENCH TIPS <=> <=>
Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School
for Jewelers
http://www.stewartsintlschool.com/
CHAIN REPAIR
by Jim Stewart
Take time to clean the chain because of the
oils and hairspray that get inside the hollow
links. You may have to clean the chain using a
tablespoon of Red Devil Lye to a few cups of
water at 180F. You will need ventilation while
doing this.
You can cut through one link on both sides
using an ultra thin cutoff disc or you can lay
the gold chain down on a flat piece of copper
and cut the links with an X-ACTO knife. It is
less costly to replace an X-ACTO blade than a
flush side cutting pliers. Now weave links
together and solder using paste solder. Paste
solder is not necessary but it is a little
faster.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Do nothing from selfishness or empty conceit,
but with humility of mind let each of you
regard one another as more important than
himself; do not merely look out for your own
personal interest, but also for the interest of
others.
Philippians 2: 3-4
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
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Featuring more than 200 full-color photographs,
this essential bench resource offers step-by-
step guides to common—and not so common—repair
and fabrication techniques for gold and silver
jewelry. It also offers basic bench
preparation and practices (including tips for
organizing tools and prioritizing work flow), a
guide to taking in repairs, and step-by-step
projects ranging from resizing two-tone rings
to setting fancy shapes, from building a
bracelet hinge to basic chasing and repoussé.
Published by MJSA/AJM Press, a division of
Manufacturing Jewelers & Suppliers of America.
Visit http://www.ajm-magazine.com/atb/index.htm
for a preview.
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<=> <=> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <=> <=>
Tips for working on Platinum from
Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ,
Director of Technical Education
for Platinum Guild International
http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com
SIZING A PLATINUM/COBALT (Pt/Co) RING
Pt/Co is slightly magnetic and you can easily
detect it at the bench with a magnet.
Sizing a Platinum ring is normally done with
the welding method as long as there are no
stones nearby. The exception is Pt/Co, as
cobalt oxidizes. To size a Pt/Co ring, 1700
seamless solder is recommended.
Roll the solder paper-thin, wedge it into a
very well fitting seam and heat. The seam
should be very, very thin. When welded with a
torch, Pt/Co may oxidize slightly. This can be
removed by firecoating the object after the
initial welding and re-heating it to about 1000
F. or by pickling in a 10% solution of nitric
acid. The oxidation will not reappear during
wear. Next, use a file to remove excess
solder, and burnish the seam with a Tungsten
burnisher. This should remove all traces of
the seam. Now polish and clean the ring. With
its good hardness, Pt/Co takes on a great
polish.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
The credit belongs to those people who are
actually in the arena … who know the great
enthusiasms, the great devotions to a worthy
cause; who at best, know the triumph of high
achievement; and who, at worst, fail while
daring greatly … so that their place shall
never be with those cold and timid souls who
know neither victory nor defeat.
Theodore Roosevelt
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
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<=> <=> <=> FAVORITE TIPS <=> <=> <=>
A flat graver can be used to burnish a
bezel
when setting. Place the graver point on the
bezel as you would if cutting. However, pull
backwards on the graver to burnish the
metal,
rather than pushing forward on it.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
Before placing in the job
envelope, put chains
in small zip-lock bag with
their catches
sticking out of the
top. When removing, hold
chain by clasp and lift out
of the bag. Do not
take the open bag and dump
it out. This will
keep the chain from
tangling
< < < < < <> > > > > >
When channel setting diamonds, color
the inside
of the channel with a black felt tip
marker
before setting. The diamonds will stand out
against this background making it
easier to
keep the spacing uniform. When finished
setting, dip the jewelry in alcohol to
remove
the ink.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
Once a chain is
reassembled, it is often
difficult to find the break
in the chain to
solder. To help you find the break, mark the
broken links with a felt
tip marker before
assembly.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
Line the bottom of your lap tray with a
piece
of leather, mat board, or cloth. This will
protect stones from the metal bottom if
dropped
into the tray.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
Measure the thickness and width of the
ring
shank and record these measurements on
the job
envelope before you begin sizing a
ring.
Having these measurements may save you
from
doing a half-shank later if the
customer
complains that you thinned the shank
too much
during sizing.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
Use snap-on sanding disk
with a fine grit to
clean up prong tips after
re-tipping. Place
the snap-on sanding disk
backwards (emery side
towards your flex-shaft
handpiece). This makes
them easier to control and
you can see your
progress as you sand.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
An organized bench WILL NOT LET YOU DO
BETTER
WORK!
It will however let you work more
efficiently.
Every minute looking for a tool to use
is 60
seconds spent not working.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
When accumulating scrap always keep in
mind
this thought:
WHEN IN DOUBT, DO NOT THROW IT OUT.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
Drill a 3/8” hole in the
center of your muslin
buff wheels. Then place on the tapered spindle
of your polishing
motor. This larger hole will
allow the wheel to move up
further on the
tapered spindle. You can then place an inside
ring buff on the remaining
tapered spindle.
You can then use both the
inside ring buff and
muslin buff wheel with out
stopping the motor
and changing the buffs.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
If you have a tip you would like to share with
our readers send it in an e-mail to
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Watch your thoughts, for they become words.
Choose your words, for they become actions.
Understand your actions, for they become
habits. Study your habits, for they will
become your character. Develop your character,
for it becomes your destiny.
Anonymous
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
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Coming April 23 - 25 2004 to Chicago IL
Workshops <> Seminars <> Demonstrations
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Everything during this Educational Conference
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For exhibitor information e-mail Tabetha Jordan
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS <=> <=>
Workshop Safety Tips
From Charles Lewton-Brian
BURNS
Burns are a common hazard in the jewelry shop.
All goldsmiths get small burns now and then and
sometimes larger burns occur as well. Burns
were the most common small injury reported in
the Orchid list survey (next to small cuts).
Don't use oils or greasy ointments to treat a
burn first. The best treatment is to freeze a
burn as soon as possible. Burn damage keeps on
going for some time after the cause of the burn
is removed and if you freeze it fast enough and
keep it cold for a while you can often limit
the damage considerably. While I still like
ice for the small and medium sized burns
jewelers get many EMS units that now use
materials like Water-Jel, a water based gel
that carries away heat rapidly and so stops the
burn from continuing deeper and yet does not
cause a hypothermia hazard for the burn victim.
Burns are avoidable if safety precautions are
taken. If you are working with fire, torches,
flammable materials, or hot liquids then you
must set up your workspace to avoid an
accident. If an accident does happen, then be
prepared so that it is not any worse than it
need be.
Alcohol fires are reported by almost all
jewelers I know who use boric acid and alcohol
as a fire scale retardant. I recommend other
ways of applying the material, such as dipping
in a simmering water based solution. Also
using powdered boric acid applied to the warmed
object to coat it to avoid the alcohol/fire
hazard.
For more information on Workshop safety from
Charles Lewton-Brian log onto:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/safety.htm
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
There are precious few Einsteins among us.
Most brilliance arises from ordinary people
working together in extraordinary ways.
Roger Von Oech
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<=> <=> Thank You for Reading <=> <=>
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<=> <=> SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION <=> <=>
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< < < < < <> > > > > >
Information provided in this document is
provided ‘As Is’ without warranty of any kind,
either expressed or implied. This publication
is designed to provide accurate and
authoritative information concerning the
subject matter covered. It is provided with
the understanding that the author or publisher
is not engaged in rendering legal, accounting,
or other professional services. If legal
advice or other expert assistance is required,
the services of a competent professional person
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< < < < < <> > > > > >
For editorial suggestions, comments, ideas
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Copyrighted, 2003, BENCH MEDIA.
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< < < < < <> > > > > >