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<=> <=> <=> <=> E-BENCH <=> <=> <=> <=>
The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers
July 2003
Volume 4 Issue 7 circulation
over 2,400
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<=> <=> ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER <=> <=>
E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for Retail
Jewelry Store Owners, Shop Managers, Bench
Jewelers and Anyone Else That Is Interested.
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E-BENCH is a BENCH MEDIA Publication
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<=> <=> <=> TABLE OF CONTENTS <=> <=> <=>
REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS
Tips for Jewelers,
Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere
FEATURE ARTICLE
Learn how to make your shop more profitable, a
new technique, or brush up on basic skills.
STEWART'S BENCH TIPS
Bench Tips from
Stewart’s International School for Jewelers
AT THE PLATINUM BENCH
Tips for working on Platinum from
Platinum Guild International
FAVORITE TIPS
Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench
a little easier and more productive from
Bradney W. Simon CMBJ and E-BENCH Readers.
GERRY’S GEMZ
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS
Tips from Charles Lewton-Brian
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Jewelry Dealers World Trade Network
http://www.JewelryDealersNetwork.com
<=> Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel <=> >
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<=> <=> REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS <=> <=>
Tips for Jewelers Who Do Repairs
from Alan Revere
Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts
Finding pieces of solder
By Alan Revere
When you first get a new piece of sheet solder color code it by using Sharpie permanent marking pens to completely cover both sides: red for hard, black for medium and blue for easy. Then when you cut snippets you can easily locate them if they drop into your tray as well as identify their melting temperature. The ink disappears without a trace when heated during soldering. You can do this on all your solders; color-coding wire solder and even tubes of paste solder.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
People who cannot find time for recreation are obliged sooner or later to find time for illness.
John Wanamaker
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
The Ganoksin Project
www.ganoksin.com
The Gem and Jewelry Pre-Eminent Online
Resources. Open to the
public
Free of Charge.
A substantial library of articles,
publications, reports, and technical data on
gem and jewelry related topics; as well as a
sizable collection of art and jewelry
galleries, for both the casual visitor and the
professional, also host the popular Orchid
online forums for jewelers.
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<=> <=> <=> FEATURE ARTICLE <=> <=> <=>
Wrigley Field, Home Runs, and Jewelry Repair
By Bradney W. Simon CMBJ
Several summers ago, I stood with my two sons in the aisle near the left field foul pole of historic Wrigley Field. The St. Louis Cardinals were in Chicago to play the Cubs and we came early to the game as most of the fans did in order to watch Mark McGuire take batting practice. Although he did not hit a home run during the game, he did not disappoint the fans during batting practice.
With the smell of the ivy on the outfield wall in the air, McGuire hit eight home runs, or more correctly he slugged 8 towering blast that left the park, crossed Waveland Ave., and landed in the yards of the houses across the street.
As we watched, I was amazed at two things. The first was how high and far he could hit the ball. We were standing near the outfield wall and balls were sailing over our heads as if we were standing by third base watching a normal home run.
The second thing that amazed me was: Why did one of the greatest home run hitters of all time need batting practice? He would go into the batting cage, hit a few home runs, and then step out. While a teammate hit, he received instructions from the batting coach, then he went back in the cage to hit some more. I was even told he had a batting tee at home where he practiced even more.
Why would he need to practice something as simple as swinging a bat? Anyone can pick up a bat and swing it. Of course, the answer is there are certain techniques that must be executed perfectly to consistently hit home runs. If your feet are not planted properly, if your hips rotate too early or too late, if your hands are not position correctly, or if your head moves, all you have done is swing the bat, not hit a home run.
In Mark McGuire’s chase of Roger Maris’ single season home run record, he had a limited number of plate appearances before the season ended. Therefore, he practiced to make certain each time he steps into the batter’s box during a game he makes the most efficient use of his swings.
By now, you are probably wondering what Wrigley Field and home runs have to do with jewelry repair. Well as I was driving home, I got to thinking. (Driving from Illinois to South Carolina gives you plenty of time to think.) In making jewelry, like swinging a bat, there are many tasks that seem simple; you just do it and don't think about techniques. Milling is a prime example. You stick a bur in your flex-shaft, step on the peddle, and anyway you ago. However, as simple as cutting with a bur seems, there are techniques you can use that will improve the efficiency of cutting and avoid waste in the shop. Proper milling techniques allows smoother cutting, resulting in less cleanup; more accurate cutting, resulting in higher quality work; and longer tool life, resulting in saving money.
Burs are used for a variety of tasks including functional and decorative tasks. Functional items include cutting notches in prongs or channels in plates for stone setting. Decorative uses include creating surface textures or decorative patterns.
Before the widespread use of flex-shafts and burs, a type of file called rifflers were used to file hard to reach areas. Today burs have replaced these files. Areas that were only accessible by rifflers are now more easily trimmed by using small burs in the flex-shaft.
A quick look through a jewelry tool catalog will reveal that a variety of shapes and sizes of burs are available. A well-equipped jeweler's bench has an ample supply of these.
In jewelry work, the piece of jewelry is generally held steady and the bur is moved freehand over the jewelry. Because in all milling actions metal is removed, the chips should be gathered and save for reclaiming. In addition, wear goggles when using burs to protect your eyes.
To achieve the best results the following procedures for use should be followed:
Keep all cutting tools sharp. Dull cutting edges are dangerous to use as they have a tendency to slip off the metal, rather than bite into it. Burs that slip can cut or pierce your fingers. Dull cutting edges take longer to perform the work resulting in lower productivity. They cause excessive heat buildup that could damage some jewelry or the tools themselves. Dull cutting edges produce poorer quality work. They leave more burs on the metal, rather than cutting cleanly. In addition, they do not always cut true, resulting in off centered holes, and un-even or un-true cutting.
When using burs and drills keep the cutting edge cool. To do this, always use a lubricant while using your burs and drills. You can use oil based or solid wax based cutting lubricant. This helps keep the cutting edges cool thereby prolonging tool life and helps the metal chips flow away from the cutting edge, preventing the teeth from clogging which will make smoother cuts and extend the bur’s life.
Solid wax-based lubricants, such as Bur Life, are handy to use and are less messy than oil-based lubricants. They can be mounted on the front edge of your bench, or on the side of your bench pin. Mounted on the side of your bench pin provides easy access; just make certain it is mounted below the top edge of your bench pin to stay out of the way of your work.
Mounting a metal thimble on the front edge of your bench makes a handy container for liquid lubricants.
While using burs, use a steady, slow to medium speed. Flex-shafts can operate at speeds up to 14,000 rpm, some even faster. Burs and drills should not approach this speed while cutting metal (Carbide and Diamond tipped burs and drills are the exception to this). You should operate the flex-shaft at no more than medium speed while using steel burs and drills, and the larger the bur the slower the speed. High Speed Steel burs are a description of the type of steel used and not indicative of the speed used to operate.
While using burs, use light even pressure. Excessive pressure to vigorously cut metal will overheat the burs. This heat will remove the temper from the tool, and it will no longer be able to keep a sharp cutting edge. Let the tool do the work. Do not use excessive speed or pressure to force a dull bur.
When using burs, insert the shank all the way into the handpiece. The chuck should hold the shank as close to the bur head as possible. This will provide more accurate control, and is safer to operate.
Always use a steady speed and even pressure. Varying the speed by pumping the foot pedal or using un-even pressure while cutting will cause un-even cutting, and wear out the flex-shaft prematurely.
When drilling periodically pull the drill bit up out of the metal. This will clear any metal chips from the hole. In addition, the drill bit spinning freely in the air will help keep it cool.
Grind a bevel on the end of the shank on all your burs. Then they will be easier to insert into your flex-shaft handpiece when using.
Arrange setting burs by millimeter size in a bur block, and write on the block by each hole the size of the bur. When setting stones, you will not waste time looking for, and measuring the correct size bur.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Counting time is not so important as making time count.
James Walker
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo
Coming April 23 - 25 2004 to Chicago IL
Workshops <> Seminars <> Demonstrations
Networking Opportunities <> Exhibitor Show
Everything during this Educational Conference
and Suppliers Expo - including the banquet
speakers - will be directed toward the bench
jeweler.
Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo presented by
Bench Media publisher of E-BENCH, BENCH
Magazine, and BENCH ROM
For exhibitor information e-mail Tabetha Jordan
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<=> <=> STEWART'S BENCH TIPS <=> <=>
Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School
for Jewelers
http://www.stewartsintlschool.com/
REMOVING A DENT FROM HOLLOW JEWELRY
By Jim Stewart
There are many ways to accomplish this. One method is to pour water into an opening, filling it to the top. Next, put tape over the end and put in your freezer. The water will expand when frozen pushing out on the dent. You may have to do this more than once to completely remove the dent. This also works in removing dents from candlestick holders.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
There is a time for everything, and a season for every activity under heaven.
Ecclesiastes 3: 1
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
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<=> <=> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <=> <=>
Tips for working on Platinum from
Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ,
Director of Technical Education
for Platinum Guild International
http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com
Sometimes when annealing platinum it is possible to contaminate the platinum with other metals. Some filings or some solder chips on a soldering surface or any other metal on the bench may melt into platinum, thus contaminating the area. To repair, grind the contamination away with a ball burr leaving a hole that can be filled with platinum. Next, take a small piece of the same platinum alloy used in the object and weld it to fill the hole. Filing the excess metal away, you create an invisible repair. To prevent this contamination from happening in the first place, soak your platinum in a 10% solution of Nitric acid for about 10 minutes, before annealing, welding or soldering.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
One of the things I learned the hard way was that it doesn't pay to get discouraged. Keeping busy and making optimism a way of life can restore your faith in yourself.
Lucille Ball
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
At the Bench: New Book from MJSA/AJM Press
Featuring more than 200 full-color photographs,
this essential bench resource offers step-by-
step guides to common—and not so common—repair
and fabrication techniques for gold and silver
jewelry. It also offers basic bench
preparation and practices (including tips for
organizing tools and prioritizing work flow), a
guide to taking in repairs, and step-by-step
projects ranging from resizing two-tone rings
to setting fancy shapes, from building a
bracelet hinge to basic chasing and repoussé.
Published by MJSA/AJM Press, a division of
Manufacturing Jewelers & Suppliers of America.
Visit http://www.ajm-magazine.com/atb/index.htm
for a preview.
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<=> <=> <=> FAVORITE TIPS <=> <=> <=>
When bead setting stones into metal
that is particularly thin, use a setting bur that is slightly dull. Then, rather than cutting the metal away
cleanly, it will push some of the metal down.
This metal will bulge down below the plate supporting the stone.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
When channel setting, place a strip of
double stick tape in your stone tray.
Then stones can be laid out on the tape in the same order as in the
mounting. The tape will keep them in
order even if the tray is bumped.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
When setting colored stones, use a head
that is slightly larger than the head you would set the same size diamond. This larger size is necessary to accommodate
the larger pavilion on colored stones.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
Cut a line down the center
of a ceramic soldering board using a cut-off wheel in your flex-shaft or using
the edge of a diamond file. When
repairing chains, place the break in the chain over this line. Then, it will be easier to locate the break
to solder.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
DO NOT polish chains on a
polishing machine. I do not know of any
other single item that has cut and broken more fingers than this. In addition, you save the cost of replacing
the customer’s chain.
To polish, lay the chain across your bench pin. Then hold the chain down tight with your thumb and index finger. With a bristle brush in your flex shaft polish at medium speed polish the area of chain between your thumb and finger. Polish the chain little by little in this manner. It is a safe and efficient means to accomplish the task.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
Pin stems should be aligned so that the
stem will naturally lie slightly above the catch, with the opening of the catch
toward the bottom of the broach. To
fasten, slight downward pressure is exerted on the pin steam. Once fastened the pin seam will remain under
tension, pressing its point against the inside of the clasp. If the clasp accidentally opens while
wearing this tension will keep the pin seam in place.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
If you have a tip you would like to share with
our readers send it in an e-mail to
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Planning is bringing the future into the present so that you can do something about it now.
Alan Lakein
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
MENTAL PATIENT MAKES $50,000 a year TWISTING
WIRE!!!
Yes, it's true and I can show you how to make
wire jewelry and do the same thing. You can
make money right from your kitchen table making
wire jewelry and still keep your day job.
Please send a blank email to
mailto:wireworker@royal-responder.com
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<=> <=> <=> GERRY’S GEMZ <=> <=> <=>
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com/index.html
by Gerald N. Lewy
CHANNEL SETTING
If I have to hammer secure a channel-set stone, I do not do the hammering while holding the ring in a wooden clamp. I find that the wooden holder absorbs the downward force. A better approach is to place the ring on a steel mandrel. On the steel mandrel, the hammering is total and the movement of the gold onto the diamond/stone is more definite. You can apply more downward force with less repetitive hammering motions.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Don't put off for tomorrow what you can do today, because if you enjoy it today, you can do it again tomorrow.
James Michener
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
BENCH ROM
The Multi-Media Magazine for Bench Jewelers
BENCH ROM is an affordable alternative to
learning new skills and developing your career.
Discover New Techniques
Learn New Tips to Improve Your Work
See New Products and Technologies Demonstrated
All right from your home or shop without having
to travel to a seminar or trade show.
“Bench Rom is great,” says jeweler Bill Scores
“It’s like being in the shop of a Master
Jeweler and watching over his shoulder.”
Log onto www.BWSimon.com/BenchRom for more
information or to subscribe
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<=> <=> WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS <=> <=>
Workshop Safety Tips
From Charles Lewton-Brian
Electroplating safety thoughts
As with all power tools, read the instruction manuals and directions most carefully.
It's a chemistry lab so set it up like one. When you are working with chemicals consider how chemists work with them. Remember your high school or college lab? Everything should be clean and wiped down, things put away, and there are lots of safety procedures to follow. When you are acting like a chemist then you need protection like a chemist - don't forget that.
Don't mix acid and cyanide solutions. Doing this might kill you. It can generate hydrogen cyanide gas, which was used by the Nazis in the gas chambers and is still used in gas executions in the United States. Make sure all pickle residues are removed from hollow objects before electro-plating.
Always be scared of electro-plating. You can be electrocuted or poisoned; dying in agony or permanently disabled and mentally damaged if you survive. Make sure that you receive instruction from at least two separate people in electroplating methods (the best is four people-then you may better judge what level of safety you should use -well, we would hope so anyway...).
Follow all electrical safety precautions. Proper grounding, rubber mats, insulated gloves, proper fusing are all appropriate things to consider.
Use all safety precautions. Neoprene gloves, apron, splash goggles, fume hood, proper chemical storage are all essential for working with plating solutions. Never store acids next to cyanides. Always label and date solutions properly. Consider a locking, properly ventilated chemical cabinet for cyanide solutions.
Use that Fume Hood. Be sure that the ventilation system is appropriate for hazardous fumes. A ventilation hood which is directly over or next to the bath is legally required in most places. Make sure that the electroplating solution fumes are not carried past your face on their way out. Use a system with a sliding or hanging window on the fume hood so that you are properly protected and air is being drawn in lower than your face height. Make sure that the fume hood does not vent outside the building near any air intake back into the building. Make sure that your ventilation system and air makeup (if you vent air new air has to come from somewhere) does not draw the hazardous fumes back into your space. An open window is not considered sufficient ventilation.
Always add acid to water. If you get mixed up you can splash acid on yourself.
Do not overheat your solutions! While it can ruin the solution for your purposes, it may also cause fumes to be generated that are extremely toxic and hazardous.
For more information on Workshop safety from
Charles Lewton-Brian log onto: http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/safety.htm
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<=> <=> Thank You for Reading <=> <=>
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< < < < < <> > > > > >
Information provided in this document is
provided ‘As Is’ without warranty of any kind,
either expressed or implied. This publication
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< < < < < <> > > > > >
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