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<=> <=> <=> <=> E-BENCH <=> <=> <=> <=>
The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers
August 2003
Volume 4 Issue 8 circulation
over 2,400
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<=> <=> ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER <=> <=>
E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for Retail
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<=> <=> <=> TABLE OF CONTENTS <=> <=> <=>
REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS
Tips for Jewelers,
Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere
FEATURE ARTICLE
Learn how to make your shop more profitable, a
new technique, or brush up on basic skills.
STEWART'S BENCH TIPS
Bench Tips from
Stewart’s International School for Jewelers
AT THE PLATINUM BENCH
Tips for working on Platinum from
Platinum Guild International
FAVORITE TIPS
Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench
a little easier and more productive from
Bradney W. Simon CMBJ and E-BENCH Readers.
GERRY’S GEMZ
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS
Tips from Charles Lewton-Brian
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
The Ganoksin Project
www.ganoksin.com
The Gem and Jewelry Pre-Eminent Online
Resources. Open to the
public
Free of Charge.
A substantial library of articles,
publications, reports, and technical data on
gem and jewelry related topics; as well as a
sizable collection of art and jewelry
galleries, for both the casual visitor and the
professional, also host the popular Orchid
online forums for jewelers.
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<=> <=> REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS <=> <=>
Tips for Jewelers Who Do Repairs
from Alan Revere
Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts
FINDING YOUR CHUCK KEY
By Alan Revere
The snazziest system I have seen is mounting
one of those retractable spring gadgets that
hold a ring of keys on your belt (sometimes
known as a Keyback or key caddy), under your
bench top. Instead of keys, attach your chuck
key. Now it is always exactly where you left
it.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Your true character is revealed by the clarity
of your convictions, the choices you make, and
the promises you keep. Hold strongly to your
principles and refuse to follow the currents of
convenience. What you say and do defines who
you are, and who you are ... you are forever.
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo
Coming April 23 - 25 2004 to Chicago IL
Workshops <> Seminars <> Demonstrations
Networking Opportunities <> Exhibitor Show
Everything during this Educational Conference
and Suppliers Expo - including the banquet
speakers - will be directed toward the bench
jeweler.
Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo presented by
Bench Media publisher of E-BENCH, BENCH
Magazine, and BENCH ROM
For exhibitor information e-mail Tabetha Jordan
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<=> <=> <=> FEATURE ARTICLE <=> <=> <=>
Back to School
Remember when Labor Day meant the end of summer
vacation and kids went back to school. It
doesn’t any more. Students have already been
back to school for weeks and the traditional
back to school sales are nearly over.
However, for the bench jeweler, September is an
ideal time to go “back to school” and brush-up
on your techniques as it is still typically one
of the slower months of the year and it is
always good to improve your skills just before
the Christmas rush begins.
Often, over the years, bad habits creep into
our work procedures. Periodic review of our
techniques is needed to assure us that these
“bad habits” are not allowed to continue to
effect the quality of our work. This month we
will continue our Back to Basics Series with an
article on filing.
Files are used for cutting, shaping, and
smoothing metal. Filing is a basic technique
used by jewelers, and the file is one of the
most important shaping and finishing tools we
have at our benches. Because the file is such
a simple looking tool, most people think there
is no right way to use it. However, this is
not true.
Filing incorrectly waste time, causes
unnecessary work, and wastes precious metal.
Proper filing determines whether the finished
jewelry will look professional or amateurish.
Accurate and rapid filing can only be developed
through study and practice. For speedy filing
the answer is in method, not muscle. Work with
steady, even, long strokes. Frantic aggressive
filing or short, broken, "fiddling” strokes
will produce inaccurate results.
All files are designed to cut on the forward or
push stroke. An efficient file stroke is
smooth, steady, and even, using the full length
of the file. The backward or pull stroke does
not cut; it only returns the file to the start
position. Many jewelers develop the habit of
lifting the file from the metal surface for the
return stroke. Others leave the file in
contact but allow it to lightly slide back.
When working in areas of critical fit or
precise edges, lift the file on the return
stroke and take careful, deliberate cutting
strokes. This permits constant visual
inspection.
Hold the file handle firmly with your index
finger extended on top of the file. This
permits you to apply the needed pressure during
the cutting stroke. Line up your hand and
wrist in a straight line from the file tip to
your elbow. As you file, do not bend your
wrist. Only your elbow and shoulder should
move during filing, not your hand or wrist.
Whenever exerting forward pressure on the hand,
keep the wrist as straight as possible.
Putting pressure on the wrist in a bent
position over time may lead to Carpal Tunnel
Syndrome.
File Types
Files come in many widths, lengths, shapes, and
cuts. Cuts range from the finest #8, to the
coarsest #00. (This numbering sequence is the
opposite of saw blades.) Hand files and
needle files are the two types most commonly
used in jewelry work. Hand files are used for
general filing. The most useful cut is a #4
with a #2 cut used for heavy coarse filing.
Needle files shape and smooth areas that are
unreachable with the larger hand files. A
common mistake made by jewelers is using a
needle file that is too coarse. A #2 cut
needle file is too coarse for jewelry work. It
leaves deep file marks in the metal that are
difficult to remove from the tight spaces where
needle files are used. When attempting to
remove them the clean straight edges or
contours developed by filing are lost,
resulting in a mediocre job.
A #4 cut needle file should be saved for times
where heavy filing is needed in tight areas. A
#6 cut needle file is used for general filing.
Often a jeweler can go straight to polishing
with tripoli after using a #6 file. This will
save not only time but also reduce waste
material. More importantly, the clean straight
edges, contours, and sharp corners produced
with the file are not lost in the sanding
process. This results in a more professional
looking finished piece of jewelry.
FLAT FILING
When filing flat surfaces or straight lines,
hold the work steady. Move only the file. A
flat-faced file is used. Using the flat side
of a half-round, barrette, equaling, or other
file is a matter of personal choice.
Outside Curves
Filing an outside curve (convex surface) is
similar to flat filing and the same file is
used. As the file moves forward, bend your
wrist slightly and lift your elbow to follow
the contour of the surface. Use long strokes,
and keep the file moving in a smooth continuous
curve or you will develop flat spots on the
jewelry.
Inside Curves
To file an inside curve (concave surface) a
file with a rounded face is need. You can use
a half-round, oval, round or crossing file.
Allow the file to roll from side to side as you
push forward. This not only keeps the contour
of the curve, but also prevents cutting
irregular flat spots in the edge of the metal.
You should always take great care when filing
that you do not remove too much metal. It is
impossible to replace the metal removed. When
filing to remove excess solder, often the
mistake is made of filing too much resulting in
a thinning of the metal. Stop filing when the
outline of the solder is just barely visible.
Sanding to prepare the metal for polishing will
remove the remaining solder. If you continue
to file until all evidence of the solder is
removed then when sanded, the metal will be
thinned more than necessary.
Learn to file correctly and practice the
techniques described here and your next piece
of jewelry will certainly be deserving of an
A+.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Time is what we want most, but what we use
worst.
William Penn
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
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<=> <=> STEWART'S BENCH TIPS <=> <=>
Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School
for Jewelers
http://www.stewartsintlschool.com/
RECOVERING GOLD FROM THE ULTRASONIC
By Jim Stewart
Pour the ultrasonic solution through a paper
coffee filter that is inside a strainer. The
solution then runs into a large can or bowl.
Next, use a paper towel to wipe the sludge out
of the tank. Place the coffee filter and paper
towel inside a plastic trash bag and when full
send it to a refinery. The old solution can be
reused. Put it back into the ultrasonic tank,
and then add a little non-ammoniated
concentrate.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
If you want to move your greatest obstacle,
realize that the obstacle is yourself - and
that the time to act is now!
Nido Qubein
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
SIMON SEZ SEMINARS
Bradney W. Simon is a JA Certified Master Bench
Jeweler with over 26 years experience on the
bench. He is the Editor and Publisher of
E-BENCH, BENCH Magazine, and BENCH ROM, and is
an accomplished platform speaker, providing
Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars.
Topics include:
Shop Management
Bench Tips
Jewelry Demonstrations
For information on having him speak for your
organization, log onto;
http://www.BWSimon.com/SimonSez Seminars
<=> <=> SEMINAR SCHEDULE <=> <=>
Tri-State Jeweler’s Association
September 8 Ocean City DE
EJTA
September 21 Charlotte NC
Kindall College of Art
September 22 – 25 Grand Rapids MI
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<=> <=> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <=> <=>
Tips for working on Platinum from
Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ,
Director of Technical Education
for Platinum Guild International
http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com
SOLDERING VS WELDING PLATINUM
Soldering is usually required when you are
working on a multi-metal piece, such as an 18K
and Platinum combination. The metal with the
lowest melting point dictates the method used.
When installing minor components to platinum,
such as findings, soldering is preferred.
Whenever you are sizing a ring and need to use
solder, use a 1700 seamless solder to do the
task. Lower temperature solders tend to show a
seam.
Sizing a platinum ring is normally done with
the welding method, as long as there are no
stones nearby and the ring is made entirely of
platinum.
The exception here is Pt/Co, as cobalt
oxidizes. To size a Pt/Co ring, the 1700
seamless solder is recommended.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Time is the only coin you have in life … and
only you can determine how it will be spent.
Be careful lest you let other people spend it
for you.
Carl Sandburg
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
At the Bench: New Book from MJSA/AJM Press
Featuring more than 200 full-color photographs,
this essential bench resource offers step-by-
step guides to common—and not so common—repair
and fabrication techniques for gold and silver
jewelry. It also offers basic bench
preparation and practices (including tips for
organizing tools and prioritizing work flow), a
guide to taking in repairs, and step-by-step
projects ranging from resizing two-tone rings
to setting fancy shapes, from building a
bracelet hinge to basic chasing and repoussé.
Published by MJSA/AJM Press, a division of
Manufacturing Jewelers & Suppliers of America.
Visit http://www.ajm-magazine.com/atb/index.htm
for a preview.
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<=> <=> <=> FAVORITE TIPS <=> <=> <=>
Wow, this edition [July 2003] was great. Not
only were the various topics of interest, but I
loved the quotes. In particular, I liked the
comparison of the baseball batter to jewelry
making. I think that's right on. You need to
"practice" techniques frequently. I had a
mentor who suggested that prior to the first
soldering job of the day, you practice
soldering some scraps just to be sure that you
are using the right flame, right solder, etc.
I have found this more often than not to be
very helpful. It just takes a second. I'm
sure you've noticed that as the day progresses,
soldering goes better and better, which I think
proves the point about practice.
Anyway, just wanted you to know I enjoyed this
issue mucho!
Kay
< < < < < <> > > > > >
Place the chain(s) to be
polished in a small
vibratory tumbler with
assorted shapes of
stainless steel shot. Run the tumbler for 1/2
to 1 hour & remove the
chains, rinse, and dry.
If the chain has trapped a
shot or two, the
easiest & least
frustrating way to remove it is
to drop the chain on a
smooth solid surface
from a height of 1- 2
feet. It may take
several tries, but the shot
generally falls
out.
Dave Arens
< < < < < <> > > > > >
To keep my solders organized
and safe from
contamination, I use a
seven-day pill dose
container from the local
pharmacy. Label each
cubicle for the various
solders you use. Then,
rather than cutting the
pennyweight sheet into
pallions ahead of time, I
prefer to just cut
them in halves, so they will
fit the bins
easier.
I have a separate container
for just silver
solders, and small sterling
parts, such as
half-round and full-round
beads, etc. These
containers keep silver parts
fairly free from
oxidation, and readily
accessible.
These little pill dose
containers are quite
handy, and occasionally even
free from the
pharmacies.
Mark Greenbaum
< < < < < <> > > > > >
I mark each sheet of solder
by punching a mark
to make identifying them
easier. The code is
as follows:
1 punch mark in 14KW EZ, and
14KY EZ
2 punch marks in 14KW HD
3 punch marks in 20KW HD,
and 14KY HD.
Mark Greenbaum
< < < < < <> > > > > >
A stuck drill will boil out in pickle in about
45 minutes be sure to hang the piece so that
the gas produced by the acid on the steel does
not block the hole and thus stop the action
(you should see a stream of tiny bubbles if it
is working ok).
Bill Pellegrin
< < < < < <> > > > > >
To stiffen an earring post, twist it on its own
axis one or two times. The soft part where you
soldered will twist and harden itself while the
hard part will stay the same (it also tests
your solder joint).
Bill Pellegrin
< < < < < <> > > > > >
If you have a tip you would like to share with
our readers send it in an e-mail to
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Patience and perseverance have a magical effect
before which difficulties disappear and
obstacles vanish.
John Quincy Adams
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
BENCH ROM
The Multi-Media Magazine for Bench Jewelers
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Discover New Techniques
Learn New Tips to Improve Your Work
See New Products and Technologies Demonstrated
All right from your home or shop without having
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“It’s like being in the shop of a Master
Jeweler and watching over his shoulder.”
Log onto www.BWSimon.com/BenchRom for more
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<=> <=> <=> GERRY’S GEMZ <=> <=> <=>
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com/index.html
by Gerald N. Lewy
by Gerald N. Lewy
High-speed steel refers to the tensile strength
of the steel used to make the burr. It should
not be misconstrued for the general usage and
the turning speed of the burr. When using a
high speed steel burr for preparing the seats
for a solitaire, I will make sure that the
speed of the drill is just fast enough that I
can not see the teeth of the bur turning. That
gives me total control of the burr. Remember
"high speed steel" is the name for the type of
the steel from which the bur is made, not the
speed at which it is used.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Give away your life; you’ll find life given
back, but not merely given back – given back
with bonus and blessing. Giving, not getting,
is the way. Generosity begets generosity.
Luke 11:36
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
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<=> Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel <=> >
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on going discussions, or just read and take in
all the advice from many Excellent Jewelers
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Membership includes: Topical Discussion
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Buy/Sell Channels, Plus Much More.
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<=> <=> WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS <=> <=>
Workshop Safety Tips
From Charles Lewton-Brian
Eye protection in the workshop usually consists
of using safety glasses and/or a face shield.
Polycarbonate glasses are good. Aside from
protection from sharp objects, flying chunks,
dust, chemicals, fumes, liquids and hot metal
splashes, we have to deal with glowing
materials (infrared light), the blue flame of a
high-temperature torch (ultraviolet light) and
"sodium glare or flare."
Most glasses and polycarbonates will stop the
ultraviolet, as will most contact lenses. The
infrared is stopped by a "shade": numbers 2 and
up have been suggested. It is important that
one understands that a "tinted" lens does not
offer infrared protection-only a shaded lens
offers protection. Side shields that stop UV
and infrared are also a good idea. Didymium
glasses stop the sodium flare, which is more of
a problem for glass workers.
For more information on Workshop safety from
Charles Lewton-Brian log onto:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/safety.htm
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<=> <=> Thank You for Reading <=> <=>
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Visit often, as we will be making changes to
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< < < < < <> > > > > >
Information provided in this document is
provided ‘As Is’ without warranty of any kind,
either expressed or implied. This publication
is designed to provide accurate and
authoritative information concerning the
subject matter covered. It is provided with
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< < < < < <> > > > > >
For editorial suggestions, comments, ideas
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please send an E-Mail to Bradney W. Simon
Copyrighted, 2003, BENCH MEDIA.
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< < < < < <> > > > > >