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<=> <=> <=> <=> E-BENCH <=> <=> <=> <=>
The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers
July 2004
Volume 5 Issue 07 circulation over 3,100
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<=> <=> ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER <=> <=>
E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for Retail
Jewelry Store Owners, Shop Managers, Bench
Jewelers and Anyone Else That Is Interested.
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<=> <=> <=> TABLE OF CONTENTS <=> <=> <=>
REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS
Tips for Jewelers,
Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere
FEATURE ARTICLE
Learn how to make your shop more profitable, a
new technique, or brush up on basic skills.
STEWART'S BENCH TIPS
Bench Tips from
Stewart’s International School for Jewelers
AT THE PLATINUM BENCH
Tips for working on Platinum from
Platinum Guild International
FAVORITE TIPS
Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench
a little easier and more productive from
Bradney W. Simon CMBJ and E-BENCH Readers.
GERRY’S GEMZ
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS
Tips from Charles Lewton-Brian
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
PLATINUM TECHNICAL TRAINING TOUR 2004
Technical Training for Bench Jewelers
This bench jeweler session will feature
invaluable, practical information about
working with platinum, straight from PGI’s Director of Technical Education Jurgen Maerz.
Among the topics:
– Platinum alloys
– Ring sizing and repairs
– Finishing techniques
– Casting techniques & porosity
REGISTRATION
Call 800 207 PLAT with your choice of tour location, number of people who will be attending and payment info.
Upon receipt of registration, a final confirmation will be faxed.
FEES
Payment Methods: Credit card, check or cash (at the door of event)
Bench Jeweler Training: $30 per person.
Stores sending five or more people receive a group discount rate of $25 per person. Beverages and appetizers will be provided for general sessions. Each session will feature raffles with exciting giveaways, and every attendee will receive a goodie bag!
TOUR SCHEDULE:
LOS ANGELES – AUGUST 11
Marriott Los Angeles Airport
SEATTLE – AUGUST 17
Renaissance Seattle Hotel
SAN FRANCISCO – AUGUST 18
Airport Marriott
DALLAS – SEPTEMBER 8
Omni Dallas Park West
HOUSTON – SEPTEMBER 9
Marriott JW Hotel
BOSTON – SEPTEMBER 21
Marriott Boston Burlington
DC METRO AREA – SEPTEMBER 22
Marriott Fairview Park
MIAMI – OCTOBER 7
Marriott Miami, Dadeland
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<=> <=> REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS <=> <=>
Tips for Jewelers Who Do Repairs
from Alan Revere
Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts
AN EASY WAY TO FILL SMALL HOLES IN METAL
Let’s say that during the final polishing of a
cast ring with an opal you discover a pit in
the metal that’s too big to burnish closed. Or
maybe you fabricated a hollow ring with a small
air hole in the back, to allow gases to go in
and out during soldering, and you now need to
close the hole. In either case, you cannot fill
the hole with solder, nor can you bur out and
then solder in a plug. What do you do?
Here is a surefire way to fill a small hole in
metal, either in a fabricated or cast piece.
Begin by drilling through the hole with as
small a drill bit as possible. Now select a
piece of round wire made of the same alloy as
the piece, but slightly larger. Using a file,
taper the wire so the tip will go in the hole.
Now place the wire in a pin vise and slowly jam
it into the hole, twisting it as you force it
in. When the wire will not go in any further
and fits the hole tightly, cut it off and file
it down until it’s flush with the ring. Sand,
polish, and voilá—you have totally hidden the
hole. There isn’t even a solder seam to
discolor.
This Tip is from the forthcoming book
"101 Bench Tips for Jewelers"
written by Alan Revere and published by
MJSA/AJM Press.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Creativity is a drug I cannot live without.
Cecil B. DeMille
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
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<=> <=> <=> FEATURE ARTICLE <=> <=> <=>
THE BEST LAID PLANS
A Bench Jeweler’s Guide to Planning Their Daily
Work
Part 2 of 4
Can you imagine going on a vacation without
doing any planning. You just get in your car
and start driving. Each time you come to a
junction in the road you randomly choose to
turn left or right, or go straight, and you
spend your entire vacation haphazardly choosing
which road to travel on.
You may be an avid skier and you just happen to
come upon one of the most beautiful Ski
resorts. However, because you did not do any
planning you are there in the middle of the
summer and there is no snow. Or you may love
to go to the beach and you spend hours driving
down a road that just happens to be parallel to
a magnificent beach. You miss going to the
beach even though it is only 5 or 10 miles away
because you don’t know it is there. You may
enjoy amusement parks and spend your entire
vacation driving around the country and never
find an amusement park, simply because you did
not do any planning for your vacation.
I’m sure you’re thinking “That’s crazy; no one
would take a vacation without at least planning
on where they are going.” However that is
exactly how many jewelers work. They take a
job envelope out of their work box and work on
it. Then they pull out another job and work on
it. All day long they work haphazardly on jobs
that just happen to be pulled out of the box
without giving any thought to their work or
making any plan. Most Americans spend more
time planning two weeks of vacation than they
do planning the other 50 weeks of their year.
Let’s take the vacation analogy a little
further. Suppose you did plan your vacation.
Your plan was to head east to spend a couple of
days at a beach, then travel north to spend a
day at an amusement park, and then drive west
to spend a few days at a mountain cabin before
heading home.
You leave home driving east toward the beach,
but before you arrive at the beach you decide
you have been going east long enough and you
want to start going toward the amusement park
and head north. After just a few hours of
heading north you decide you’re tired of going
north and really want to head toward the
mountains and so you turn west. A while later
you realize that you really need to be heading
toward the beach as that is your first
destination, so you turn the car around and
head back east. Before you know it your week
vacation is up and you have not reached any of
your destinations. You have spent the entire
week driving in circles.
Now I know some of you are thinking that is the
stupidest thing I’ve heard of. No one would
ever spend their vacation driving in circles,
and I agree. However, that is exactly how many
bench jewelers spend their day. They work on
this project for a little while then they start
doing a few repairs. A while later they are
tired of doing that so they start something
else, then they go back to what they started in
the morning, but before finishing they start a
few more repairs. On and on they go working in
circles all day long and at the end of the day
they cannot understand how they could work all
day long and not get anything finished.
Often bench jewelers feel that planning their
day’s work is too restrictive and confining,
and they like to be more spontaneous. I agree
to a point. Planning can be very restrictive.
I’m sure we all know people who plan their
vacations that way. They schedule down to the
minute where they will be at each moment and
what they will do, and look out for the person
who would dare change those plans. However,
let’s not throw the baby out with the bath
water. The opposite extreme of not planning at
all is just as detrimental to our productivity,
if not more so. Planning should be seen as a
tool to help us reach our destination rather
than a strict set of rules that cannot be
broken.
Plan your work and work your plan. If you fail
to plan you are planning to fail. These are
well-worn phrases about planning your work to
accomplish more. They have been widely used
because they are true. One minute spent in
planning saves several minutes in execution.
A ‘To Do’ list is an excellent tool to
effectively plan your workday. On it you can
list all the activities needed to be done, and
then schedule those activities in the order you
want or need to work on them. An alternative
to writing a To Do list is to use a ‘To Do’
card system. Each project is written on a card
and filed in order of importance. Then work on
the project on the first card. When it is
completed, throw the card away and move on to
the second.
For jewelers planning their work, a deviation
of this card system is used. Instead of
writing out cards for each project, the job
envelopes are used. A daily work tray is used
to place the envelopes in. Organize the
envelopes so that the envelope in front will be
worked on first. The second envelope will be
worked on next, etc. The envelope in the back
of the tray will be worked on last. If it is
not finished it would be moved to the front of
the tray the next day.
Sort the Envelopes
To organize the envelopes, take all the jobs
from the workbox filed under today’s date.
When the day’s work is pulled out of the box,
move the divider to the back of the box. Then
the next day’s work is always in front of the
workbox.
Sort each job into groups of similar work.
Place all the downsizings into one group, the
upsizings into another, place all the chain
repairs together, place all the retipping
together and a group for all stone setting,
etc.
If one piece of jewelry has more than one job
to do, place it in the group of work you will
do first. For example, an envelope with a ring
to be sized and a stone to be set should be
placed in the group of ring sizings. Later in
the day after the ring is sized, place the ring
back in the envelope. Then move the envelope
to the group of stone setting jobs.
Envelopes should never have more than one piece
of jewelry in it as in a ring to be sized and a
chain to be soldered. If it does, take one
item out of the envelope and write out a new
envelope for it. This way you can place the
envelopes in the appropriate group of jobs.
Once you sort the envelopes into groups, look
them over. If only one or two jobs are in one
group, check the due dates to see if you can
wait a day to begin them. Next check the
workbox and see if there are similar jobs to do
the next day. If you can wait a day and group
this job with similar work tomorrow, file it
back in the workbox.
Next, check the workbox to see if there is a
job or two of work similar to what you will be
doing during the day. If there is, pull them
out and add them to the appropriate group. One
or two jobs added to a group of work will not
take much additional time to perform. It will
take much longer to do this job by itself
tomorrow.
By grouping your work together like this, much
more work can be accomplished in the same
amount of time. A typical schedule would be to
size rings every Monday, Wednesday and Friday
mornings and repair chains on Tuesday and
Thursday mornings and saving the afternoons for
larger more difficult repairs including stone
setting, prong retipping, custom work, etc.
In arranging, your workday, be cautious of the
fact that; Work Expands to Fill the Time
Allowed for It. Have you ever noticed on days
where you have a lot of work to do, you
concentrate your efforts and finish all the
work. However, on days where you do not have
as much work to do, by the end of the day all
you have accomplished is that work. You have
not accomplished nearly the amount of work that
you know that you could have accomplished.
Somehow, these few jobs just seemed to take all
day to do. If we have an eight-hour day to
accomplish our work, we usually take eight
hours to accomplish our work regardless of the
amount of work that we have to do.
Step back and look over the work you have laid
out to work on and ask yourself: Is this a full
day’s work? If not go back to your workbox and
take some additional work and start to work on
the next day’s work so that you will have a
full day’s work to do today. It also never
hurts to be a little ahead in the shop.
Another method to fill the day with more work
is to keep large jobs in the back of your tray.
This would include remounts where you need to
solder crowns and set stones, as well as all
custom work. Each day in the afternoon as you
get small blocks of time you can start working
on these jobs. Break these jobs down into
several small blocks of time, instead of having
to plan for a major portion of a day to do that
one job. Work on these jobs over a period of
several days a little bit at a time. You can
finish a large job, which would normally take
several hours, during the time that would
normally be wasted.
It can also be time used for making custom
pieces for stock. By placing a few stock jobs
in the back of your work tray, you can begin
work on these when you have extra time. You
can also spend this time cleaning the shop.
This will result in extra profits from the
refiner, and increase productivity from the
clean organized shop. In addition, any
maintenance work can be done during this time.
These are a few methods to fill in extra work
at the end of the day. By doing them you avoid
falling into the trap of having a small amount
of work expand and fill your whole day. You
will be more productive and add extra profits
to the shop.
After you have sorted through the day’s work,
put away your workbox. Place it either back in
the safe or in a drawer; some place that is out
of sight because as they say; “Out of sight out
of mind”. You will not be able to achieve
maximum productivity if you are distracted by
the amount of work you have to do during the
next several days. To be most productive you
must concentrate on the work you are doing.
You cannot concentrate on that work if you keep
looking back through your workbox. You cannot
concentrate on the task at hand, if you are
concerned about how you will finish all the
work in your workbox. It also helps keep your
security tighter. You do not need to have all
of the customers' jobs lying around the shop.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
A mistake is only a mistake if you don't learn
from it.
Anonymous
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
The Ganoksin Project
www.ganoksin.com
The Gem and Jewelry Pre-Eminent Online
Resources. Open to the
public
Free of Charge.
A substantial library of articles,
publications, reports, and technical data on
gem and jewelry related topics; as well as a
sizable collection of art and jewelry
galleries, for both the casual visitor and the
professional, also host the popular Orchid
online forums for jewelers.
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<=> <=> STEWART'S BENCH TIPS <=> <=>
Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School
for Jewelers
http://www.stewartsintlschool.com/
How To Repair A Broken Hollow Chain
By Jim Stewart
Take time to clean the chain because oils and
hairspray may get inside the hollow links. You
may have to clean the chain using a mixture of
one tablespoon of Red Devil Lye to a few cups
of water at 180F. If you use this solution you
will need proper ventilation. You can cut
through link one on both sides using an ultra
thin cutoff disc or you can unsolder the links
using a small reducing flame and twist the link
a little using soldering tweezers. Now weave
link one into link two and solder together
using paste solder. Then weave the other link
one into link two and solder the same way.
Paste solder is not necessary but it is a
little faster.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Always do your best. What you plant now, you
will harvest later.
Og Mandino
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
Run Your Shop Without It Running You
A Practical Guide To Efficient Shop Management
With over one hundred and fifty pages of
information, illustrations, and worksheets,
this is the most comprehensive book on Shop
Management available today.
This Valuable Guide Is A Must In Every Retail
Jewelry Store
“For too many years, Simon says, jewelry
store owners have believed the fallacy the shop
can’t be a profit center. He destroys that
notion step-by-step with a practical book that
shows owners and shop mangers the keys to
profitability.”
Professional Jeweler Magazine
Only $39.95 (US dollars)
plus S&H - $4.00 US, $10 International
Send your order and check to:
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106 S. Pinepoint Dr.
Spartanburg, SC 29307
U S A
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<=> <=> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <=> <=>
Tips that working with Platinum or working at
the bench in general - easier from
Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ,
Director of Technical Education
for Platinum Guild International
http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com
* Installing a simple wood screw on the side of
your bench will make it possible to open and
close jump rings with ease.
* When remounting diamonds from an old ring, it
is usually somewhat difficult to clean them.
For a quick and easy solution, place a small
amount of table salt into your hand and add the
diamonds.
Rub the salt and diamonds together. The
abrasiveness of the salt will clean the stones
without scratching them. Once they are clean,
just rinse the salt away using warm water.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Common sense is genius dressed in its working
clothes.
Ralph Waldo Emerson
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
SIMON SEZ SEMINARS
Bradney W. Simon is a JA Certified Master Bench
Jeweler with over 26 years experience on the
bench. He is the Editor and Publisher of
E-BENCH, BENCH Magazine, and BENCH ROM, and is
an accomplished platform speaker, providing
Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars.
Topics include:
Shop Management
Bench Tips
Jewelry Demonstrations
For information on having him speak for your
organization, log onto;
http://www.BWSimon.com/SimonSez Seminars
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<=> <=> <=> FAVORITE TIPS <=> <=> <=>
When setting marquise stones, bend the
side
prongs over the stone first. Then when the
side prongs are tight, bend the tip
prongs or
V-Tips over the points of the stone to
protect
them from chipping.
Setting the stone in this manner limits
the
amount of pressure applied to the
fragile tips
of the stone.
When setting pear shaped
stones, first bend the
point prong or V-Tip. Then place the stone
into the crown, and push
the remaining prongs
over the stone to secure
it.
Setting the stone in this manner limits
the
amount of pressure applied to the
fragile tip
of the stone.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
Grind a knife-edge on the end of an
equaling
needle file. Then, it will be easier to insert
into the seam of a joint to true it up
before
soldering. This works particularly well on
truing up the ends of a shank when
sizing.
Another method to true up the ends of a
shank
when sizing is to re-saw directly
through the
seam.
The sawblade will remove a little metal
from each side of the seam creating a
perfect
tight fitting seam.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
Use only plumb solders for
retipping. Low
karat solder will tarnish
in time leaving a
dark line on the prong
where the solder is.
This is also true for
soldering crowns to a
ring. If a customer comes in complaining of a
dark spot around the base
of a crown, it is
from using low karat
solder. To fix, remove
the crown, clean off the
old solder from the
ring, and install a new
crown with plumb
solder.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
ALWAYS check the stone with a loupe or
microscope before you begin to push the prongs
over the stone. Then check AGAIN once the
prongs are part way down and the stone no
longer rocks. The small amount of extra time
taken to check the seats can save a lot of
heartbreak latter.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
Fasten down foot petals on
your flex shaft and
steamer.
Then they cannot get kicked
around and you will
not waste time looking for
them.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
If you have a tip you would like to share with
our readers send it in an e-mail to
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Do not be anxious about anything, but in
everything, by prayer and petition, with
thanksgiving, present your request to God. And
the peace of God which transcends all
understanding, will guard your hearts and your
minds.
Philippians 4: 6&7
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<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
BENCH ROM
The Multi-Media Magazine for Bench Jewelers
BENCH ROM is an affordable method to learn new
skills and develop your career.
Discover New Techniques
Learn New Tips to Improve Your Work
See New Products and Technologies Demonstrated
All right from your home or shop without having
to travel to a seminar or trade show.
“Bench Rom is great,” says jeweler Bill Scores
“It’s like being in the shop of a Master
Jeweler and watching over his shoulder.”
Log onto www.BWSimon.com/BenchRom for more
information or to subscribe
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> <=> GERRY’S GEMZ <=> <=> <=>
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com/index.html
by Gerald N. Lewy
ARE YOU HAVING AN “EMOTIONAL” INVOLVMENT….with
your Retail Jewelry Inventory?
It isn’t worth the effort!
Buying jewelry and selling jewelry are two
completely different things. When you sell
jewelry to a customer you want to impart an
emotion to them, as the pieces will represent
some special occasion to them: a birthday,
anniversary, wedding, even bereavement. It is
important that they feel emotion when buying
these items because they do not necessarily
represent an object but a feeling. You need to
help them attach this emotion to the piece
because that helps them to feel comfortable
buying the piece.
However buying the jewelry that you are going
to sell to someone else should not carry this
same emotional attachment to you. If you buy
pieces because they have a strong emotional
attachment to you, then you won’t have a vested
interest in selling the item to someone else
(which is why you are in business). Also if
you buy a piece because you feel strongly about
it, you are unable to look impartially at
whether or not the piece will appeal to most of
your customers. If it doesn’t appeal to them,
then you are the one who gets stuck with the
inventory and won’t have the money to pay your
bills. Inventory cannot make you money if it
sits in your cases. As styles change, or even
your own taste changes you will suddenly find
that you have far too many of those pieces that
appealed only to you in your cases.
“Gerry, the Cyber–Setter!” very attached to
gemz@ican.net and also involved with
www.gemzdiamondsetting.com …get my drift?
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Choose a job you love and you will never work a
day in your life.
Confucius
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=> <=>
New from MJSA/AJM Press
The AJM Guide to Lost-Wax Casting
Learn from the masters how to achieve smooth,
porosity-free castings! The AJM Guide to Lost-
Wax Casting offers an abundance of best
practices, handy tips, and troubleshooting
techniques. How to create trouble-free master
models to proper breakout procedures.
Contributing experts include:
Charles Lewton-Brain, Jurgen J. Maerz,
Gregg Todd, Michael Bondanza, and many more.
For sample chapters and more information, go to
http://www.ajm-magazine.com/pub_press.php
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS <=> <=>
Workshop Safety Tips From Charles Lewton-Brian
SMALL CHANGES COUNT
Have you noticed how these days any reduction
in overall fat content in your food is
considered a good thing and that small
reductions in fat consumption in your diet add
up to overall reductions in fat in your eating
habits? That is the basic idea in safety and
substitutions to lower risk. No particular
magic, just a consciousness of the problem and
a concerted effort to reduce all (or most)
contact with hazardous substances and
procedures in your workshop. Any reduction in
contact is a positive reduction.
For more information on Workshop safety from
Charles Lewton-Brian log onto:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/safety.htm
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<=> <=> Thank You for Reading <=> <=>
We are on the World Wide Web.
Visit us at http://www.BWSimon.com
A complete archive of back issues of E-BENCH is
located there.
Visit often, as we will be making changes to
our site, adding additional useful information
for bench jewelers.
<=> <=> SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION <=> <=>
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< < < < < <> > > > > >
Information provided in this document is
provided ‘As Is’ without warranty of any kind,
either expressed or implied. This publication
is designed to provide accurate and
authoritative information concerning the
subject matter covered. It is provided with
the understanding that the author or publisher
is not engaged in rendering legal, accounting,
or other professional services. If legal
advice or other expert assistance is required,
the services of a competent professional person
should be sought.
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