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<=> <=> <=> <=> E-BENCH <=> <=> <=> <=>
The E-Mail Newsletter for Bench Jewelers
September 2004
Volume 5 Issue 09 circulation over 3,200
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<=> <=> ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER <=> <=>
E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for Retail
Jewelry Store Owners, Shop Managers, Bench
Jewelers and Anyone Else That Is Interested.
We encourage you to forward this newsletter to
anyone that you think may benefit from it,
provided you forward all of it without
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E-BENCH is a BENCH MEDIA Publication
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Bradney W Simon – Publisher
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<=> <=> <=> TABLE OF CONTENTS <=> <=> <=>
REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS
Tips for Jewelers,
Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere
FEATURE ARTICLE
Learn how to make your shop more profitable, a
new technique, or brush up on basic skills.
STEWART'S BENCH TIPS
Bench Tips from
Stewart’s International School for Jewelers
AT THE PLATINUM BENCH
Tips for working on Platinum from
Platinum Guild International
FAVORITE TIPS
Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench
a little easier and more productive from
Bradney W. Simon CMBJ and E-BENCH Readers.
GERRY’S GEMZ
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS
Tips from Charles Lewton-Brian
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<=> <=> REVERE’S TIPS FOR JEWELERS <=> <=>
Tips for Jewelers Who Do Repairs
from Alan Revere
Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts
THE ADVANTAGES OF NAIL FILES
Here is the greatest deal for bench jewelers.
Go out and get a sapphire nail file off the
rack in the cosmetics section of your
neighborhood supermarket. For around a dollar,
these incredibly handy little files can really
save the day—and shorten long nights at the
bench.
With a Mohs hardness of 9, these ultra-thin and
flat files cut all materials (except the
hardest gems), and they can be easily modified
by grinding to a desired shape. You need a
small, thin file to get into a tight slot, or
to clean up a casting, or to true up a gallery?
Just start with a sapphire nail file and, if it
is too big, trim it down to meet your needs.
You can easily reshape it on a regular grinding
wheel, so long as you keep it wet and cool.
Or maybe you just cut a ring to size it down,
but now the ends don’t meet flush? No problem;
just slip a nail file into the seam. After a
few pulls and pushes, the two faces are flat
and ready to be soldered.
Sapphire files leave a very interesting,
although somewhat delicate, texture: Just rub
the flat side of the file against a surface in
circular patterns. When you think about it,
that dollar may be one of the best investments
you ever made—and, on top of everything, you
can even use it on your nails!
This Tip is from the forthcoming book
"101 Bench Tips for Jewelers"
written by Alan Revere and published by
MJSA/AJM Press.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
To accomplish great things, we must not only
act, but also dream. Not only plan, but
believe.
Anatole France
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Simon. Each Bench View CD Rom contains
approximately 50 minutes of video you can watch
on your computer plus articles you can print.
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<=> <=> <=> FEATURE ARTICLE <=> <=> <=>
One Bite at a Time
A Bench Jeweler’s Guide to Organizing Their
Work
Part 4 of 4
Many jeweler’s productivity rate is low not
because they don’t work hard but because they
don’t work efficiently. Once the job envelopes
are sorted and scheduled in the order they are
to be worked on, the manner in which you
perform the work must be organized. Remember:
WORK SMARTER, NOT HARDER. The most efficient
method to planning your work is the same way
you eat an elephant - One Bite at a Time.
19th century author and business consultant
Samuel Smiles said “The shortest way to do many
things is to do only one thing at once.”
To accomplish more in your day, do one thing
(one bite) at a time and do it until you have
finished. Then move on to the second thing you
need to do and do it until it is finished, then
move on to the third.
To many bench jewelers this means taking one
piece of jewelry and finishing it, then taking
a second, etc. However if you look at what
work you are doing, you are actually doing
several things (eating the whole elephant) and
then repeating those same steps again. For
example, you are repairing several chains. You
get one chain ready and light your torch and
solder it. Then you turn your torch off to get
the next one ready, light your torch and solder
it. Then you turn your torch off to get the
next one ready, light your torch and solder it.
Then you turn your torch off to get the next
one ready, light your torch and solder it.
Then you turn your torch off to get the next
one ready, light your torch and solder it. Do
you see how much time is wasted re-lighting the
torch? Or in sizing rings if you size one ring
you measure, saw, bend, solder, file, hammer,
sand, polish, and clean. Then you repeat all
of the steps on each ring you size.
Many hours per week are wasted using one tool
for one job, setting it down, and using another
tool, only to return to the first tool to use
it on another job. Like picking up the torch,
lighting it, and soldering one item. Then
turning the torch off, and setting it back
down, only to pick the torch back up a few
minutes later re-light it in order to solder a
second item. Then turning the torch off again
and setting it back down. Then going to a
third job, which requires picking up the torch
and re-lighting it, to solder this third item.
Then turning the torch off, and setting it back
down, repeatedly all day long.
In planning your work, you need to think of the
one thing that you are doing concerning the
work you are doing and not the one piece of
jewelry. Think through each group of jobs that
you have to do, and break your work down.
First, break the project into steps.
Then, break those steps into activities
And finally, schedule those activities
For sizing rings down, you would break the
project down into 3 steps, which consist of
removing the amount of metal necessary,
soldering the shank closed, and cleaning up the
shank. Each of those steps could then be
broken down further into activities. For
example the first step of removing the amount
of metal consists of 4 activities; measuring
the amount of metal, marking the shank, sawing
the shank, and bending the shank closed.
Scheduling each activity together for each ring
you need to size down will allow you to work at
maximum productivity.
By organizing the work in the shop so that
similar items that need soldering can be
soldered at the same time, you use your time
most efficiently. You only light the torch
once, accomplish your soldering tasks and then
move on to another tool
You can group many jobs in the shop together in
this manner. Although the example of sizing
rings is used, you can do the same on many
repairs such as soldering chains, re-tipping
prongs, soldering charms, etc.
However, some jobs need to be accomplished by
themselves. For example, in stone setting, a
precise seat must be cut for each stone.
Because of slight variances between stones,
each stone should have its seat cut and set
individually. Additionally you do not want to
mix-up the stones and set the wrong stone in
the mounting. However, you can group these
jobs together in areas such as polishing and
cleaning.
In planning your work for the day, you need to
focus on one step or ‘bite’ of work. Think of
the word FOCUS as an acronym.
FOCUS
F – Follow
O – One
C – Course
U – Until
S – Successful
If you focus your attention and Follow One
Course of action Until you have Successfully
completed it before you move on to the next
activity, you will accomplish more during your
day. When you work in this manner you
eliminate wasted time and maximize productivity
without sacrificing quality.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
But one thing I do: Forgetting what is behind
and straining toward what is ahead, I press on
toward the goal.
Philippians 3: 13
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<=> <=> STEWART'S BENCH TIPS <=> <=>
Bench Tips from Stewart’s International School
for Jewelers
http://www.stewartsintlschool.com/
KEEPING SEAMS FOR SHOWING IN PLATINUM
By Jim Stewart
Some platinum rings are lightly rhodium plated
and when you weld, the rhodium is absorbed into
the joint and causes discoloration. I
recommend you emery off the rhodium plating on
the shank before you weld. Also, when sizing
down, cut a small piece from the ring sizing
stock because it will be the same metal as the
ring. Hammer thin and make sure the face of
your hammer is clean. Use this thin piece as
FILLER MATERIAL when welding your platinum
ring.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Don’t put yourself down. Always remember that
there are things that you can do that others
cannot.
Bunso
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New from MJSA/AJM Press
The AJM Guide to Lost-Wax Casting
Learn from the masters how to achieve smooth,
porosity-free castings! The AJM Guide to Lost-
Wax Casting offers an abundance of best
practices, handy tips, and troubleshooting
techniques. How to create trouble-free master
models to proper breakout procedures.
Contributing experts include:
Charles Lewton-Brain, Jurgen J. Maerz,
Gregg Todd, Michael Bondanza, and many more.
For sample chapters and more information, go to
http://www.ajm-magazine.com/pub_press.php
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<=> <=> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <=> <=>
Tips that working with Platinum or working at
the bench in general - easier from
Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ,
Director of Technical Education
for Platinum Guild International
http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com
Take a separating disc that is in a mandrel and
insert it into a flex-shaft. Using a fairly
high speed score a second separating disc in
four places. Mount the modified disk on a
mandrel and use it as you would use a lapping
wheel. The advantage of this modification is
that you can see right through the rotating
disc, which makes it much easier to work.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
It is one of the most beautiful compensations
of this life, that no man can sincerely try to
help another without helping himself.
Ralph Waldo Emerson
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Discover New Techniques
Learn New Tips to Improve Your Work
See New Products and Technologies Demonstrated
All right from your home or shop without having
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“It’s like being in the shop of a Master
Jeweler and watching over his shoulder.”
Log onto www.BWSimon.com/BenchRom for more
information or to subscribe
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<=> <=> <=> FAVORITE TIPS <=> <=> <=>
Line the bottom of your lap tray with a piece
of leather, mat board, or cloth. This will
protect stones from the metal bottom if dropped
into the tray.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
The difference in one size is 1/10 of an inch
or 2.54 millimeters. For simplicity 2.5
millimeters is used in actual practice. If a
ring is to be sized up or down one size 2.5 mm
is either added or removed from the shank.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
When retipping be certain to completely coat
the diamond with boric acid. Diamonds burn at
a temperature around 1560 degrees Fahrenheit.
This is near the temperature at which solder
melts. In order to burn stones you need two
things, heat AND OXYGEN. The glassy coating of
boric acid seals out oxygen allowing you to
heat above this temperature without burning the
diamond.
The lowest Platinum solder (1000) melts at over
1800 degrees Fahrenheit. PLATINUM SOLDERS
SHOULD NEVER BE USED TO RETIP DIRECTLY ON
DIAMONDS.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
Have two or three gravers of the size you use
most often. If one is dull, use another one.
When all are dull, sharpen them at the same
time. Sharpening three gravers at the same
time takes less time than sharpening one graver
three separate times. Also if a tip breaks or
dulls in the middle of a job, you can finish
the job and sharpen when finished. This saves
time from having to keep stopping to sharpen a
graver.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
Attach small tools used often, such as a chuck
key, to a retractable key chain. Mount the
case to the side of your bench or under the
bench top. The tool will always be in easy
reach and when you are finished using it, let
go and the tool will put itself away.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
If you have a tip you would like to share with
our readers send it in an e-mail to
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
If we did all the things we were capable of
doing we would literally astound ourselves.
Thomas Edison
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<=> <=> <=> GERRY’S GEMZ <=> <=> <=>
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com/index.html
by Gerald N. Lewy
Should You Use Copper, Steel, or Brass Stone
Pusher?
The jury is still out on this topic, but here
are my reasons of which and when each ‘pusher’
should be used. Let’s discuss them
individually.
I use copper when I am gypsy setting delicate
stones such as emeralds or other semi-precious
stones. Copper is softer and will not mar the
gold around the girdle as much as the harder
brass might.
Brass is a harder metal, but it’s still softer
than steel. I use a brass pusher when setting
in platinum. I would rub an emery paper over
its tip to prevent slippage. Brass gives me
better pushing results than the softer copper.
Steel is the hardest metal to use as a stone
pusher. The tip or edges of the pusher can
chip or scratch the stone, and the serrated
edge of the pusher will leave deep indentations
in the metal.
I cannot overstate the danger in using steel in
place of the softer copper or brass. However
copper and brass do not have the strength
necessary for applying heavy downward pressure
for thicker and wider engagement ring claws.
With a steel pusher no loss of pressure will be
encountered and direct and intentional pressure
will be achieved.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Life consists not in holding good cards, but in
playing those you hold well.
Josh Billings
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SIMON SEZ SEMINARS
Bradney W. Simon is a JA Certified Master Bench
Jeweler with over 26 years experience on the
bench. He is the Editor and Publisher of
E-BENCH, BENCH Magazine, and BENCH ROM, and is
an accomplished platform speaker, providing
Keynote Speeches, and Educational Seminars.
Topics include:
Shop Management
Bench Tips
Jewelry Demonstrations
For information on having him speak for your
organization, log onto;
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<=> <=> WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS <=> <=>
Workshop Safety Tips From Charles Lewton-Brian
Hygiene: Wash Your Hands
We use our hands so much in the jewelry shop
that they get exposed to all kinds of
chemicals, metals and dusts; quite apart from
the physical stresses on them. It is very
important to develop a hand washing habit to
reduce contamination of yourself (mouth
touching, eating etc.). Regular hand washing
and washing them thoroughly before leaving as
part of your 'shutting down the shop' ritual
can help reduce your overall exposure
significantly. Use a mild soap. Many people
also use hand lotions of various kinds after
rinsing.
Some people use a barrier cream before starting
the day in the shop. It does however seem to
wear off during the day. There is also some
slight concern that an oily barrier cream can
sometimes form a paste with materials that
actually keeps the skin exposed longer than if
one were not to use one.
For more information on Workshop safety from
Charles Lewton-Brian log onto:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/safety.htm
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<=> <=> Thank You for Reading <=> <=>
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< < < < < <> > > > > >
Information provided in this document is
provided ‘As Is’ without warranty of any kind,
either expressed or implied. This publication
is designed to provide accurate and
authoritative information concerning the
subject matter covered. It is provided with
the understanding that the author or publisher
is not engaged in rendering legal, accounting,
or other professional services. If legal
advice or other expert assistance is required,
the services of a competent professional person
should be sought.
< < < < < <> > > > > >
For editorial suggestions, comments, ideas
or requests, please send an E-Mail to
Bradney W. Simon mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com
Copyrighted, 2004, BENCH MEDIA.
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< < < < < <> > > > > >