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E-BENCH <=> <=>
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The E-Mail Newsletter
for Bench Jewelers
January 2005
Volume 6 Issue 1
circulation over 3,400
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SURVEY
Please help us.
If you have not already done so, Please take a
few minutes to complete a short survey on Job
Satisfaction and Compensation for us. (If you
tried and were blocked, please try again we
have fixed the error.)
All information received in the survey is
treated as confidential and is only used for
statistical examination and to improve the
understanding of bench jeweler trends.
To complete the survey go to:
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Thanks, Brad Simon
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ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER
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E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for Retail
Jewelry Store Owners, Shop Managers, Bench
Jewelers and Anyone Else That Is Interested.
We encourage you to forward this newsletter to
anyone that you think may benefit from it,
provided you forward all of it without
modification and not just portions of it.
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E-BENCH is a BENCH MEDIA Publication
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Bradney W Simon – Publisher
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daniel@spirerjewelers.com
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<=>
<=> <=> TABLE OF CONTENTS <=>
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Tips for jewelers
who do repairs from Alan Revere
FEATURE ARTICLE
Learn how to make your shop more profitable, a
new technique, or brush up on basic skills.
STEWART'S BENCH TIPS
Bench tips from Stewart’s
for Jewelers
AT THE PLATINUM BENCH
Tips for working on platinum from
Platinum Guild International
FAVORITE TIPS
Tips and tricks to make your work on the bench
a little easier and more productive from
Bradney W. Simon CMBJ and E-BENCH Readers.
GERRY’S GEMZ
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS
Tips from Charles Lewton-Brian
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<=>
<=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=>
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2nd
Annual
Bench Jewelers
Conference & Expo
All activities during this three day event will
be directed toward the Bench Jeweler,
Making This The
One Show In 2005
That You Don’t
Want To Miss
More Seminars, More Variety, plus Round Table
Discussion Groups highlight this year’s
Educational Conference. Seating is limited so
REGISTER EARLY to guarantee your seat.
The Supplier’s Expo features New Exhibitors and
Larger Displays by many companies.
For More Information log onto:
www.BWSimon.com/Conference
Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo presented by
Bench Media publisher of E-BENCH, BENCH
Magazine, and BENCH ROM
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Tips for Jewelers Who Do Repairs
from Alan Revere
To solder a post on an earring take the earring
in one hand and the flex-shaft, with a 1 mm
ball bur in place, in the other. Make sure
your hands are well braced, then slowly and
carefully lower the spinning bur to the center
of the back of the setting, sideways. Do not
apply force, or the bur will skid out of
control. Once you’ve created an indention,
turn and bur straight into the metal.
To prepare the post, use a cup bur to shape the
end into a corresponding convex hemisphere.
Now flow some solder into the depression you
made on the back of the setting. Bring the
rounded end of the post into contact with the
depression. As the reheated solder flows, the
post drops into perfect position, with a small
visible fillet of solder at the joint.
This procedure accomplishes two important
tasks; it locates the post on the earring, and
it provides a much stronger solder seam than a
simple butt joint.
This Tip is from 101 Bench Tips for Jewelers
written by Alan Revere and published by
MJSA/AJM Press.
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QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING
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Achievement seems to be connected with action.
Successful men and women keep moving. They make
mistakes, but they don't quit.
Conrad Hilton
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CALL FOR
ENTRIES
The first Bench Jewelers Passion Award Design
Competition will be held in conjunction with
the Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo April 22 –
24 in
per category in up to three categories in both
the Finished Jewelry and CAD Rendering
Divisions. Deadline for
submissions is March
15, 2005.
For details Contest Rules and to enter log
onto: www.BWSimon.com/DesignContest
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<=> <=> FEATURE ARTICLE <=>
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Polishing Platinum
Jurgen Maerz CMBJ
In order to polish platinum successfully, some
points need to be addressed. It is important
that all scratches are removed at the work
bench. This can be done with different and
assorted abrasives using increasingly finer
grits.
Once the scratches are removed, it is important
to burnish the surface of the platinum. This
is done with a polished tungsten burnisher by
hand, or with tumbling devices. If it is done
by hand, the tool of choice is a tungsten
burnisher, which rubs a highly polished rod of
tungsten over the surface of the platinum.
Before you start, though, be sure the
burnisher's surface is highly polished; if it's
at all scratched, you will transfer those
scratches to the ring. Using a light oil for
burnishing, such as oil of wintergreen, will
prevent the burnisher from skipping and marring
the platinum.
For the polishing sequence there are usually
four levels of polish. Using an 800 grit
polishing compound, the jewelry is prepared.
After that, a 1500 grit compound is used, which
will be followed by another step using 4000
grit. The final high gloss and luster is
achieved with an 8000 fine compound. With
platinum there are no shortcuts. If there are
still scratches in the piece, the polishing
sequence will not remove them and one must go
back to an abrasive to remove them. Polishing
compounds designed for gold and silver have
little effect on platinum, and it is always a
good choice to use compounds especially
developed for platinum polishing.
When buffing with an abrasive compound, you'll
need to generate enough heat to get the metal
almost flowing. To accomplish this, you'll
want to select a larger diameter buff. For
example, a four inch buff will have a surface
speed of about 3,600 feet per minute, while the
speed of a six inch buff is about 5,400 feet
per minute. The greater the speed, the greater
the heat. You must also pay attention to the
buffs physical characteristics: hard felt flat
laps work best for corners and edges, while
horsehair brushes produce a nice shine on
filigree and other details.
When buffing, apply the same method as for
filing: buff in a diagonal direction, then
switch to the opposite diagonal direction (when
polishing over a solder seam, polish across it
rather than along it; this will prevent you
from pulling out the solder.) During this
process, do not let loose metal and compound
build up on the ring; this will cause the buff
to glaze and consequently scrape the ring's
surface.
Repeat this operation with the next finer
polishing compound, using an untreated stitched
muslin buff; this should give a highly
reflective surface and a lustrous finish. And
there you have it: one polished platinum ring.
If you'd like, you can even bring out the
polish further by applying additional finishing
techniques, Florentine, stippling or
sandblasting, among others. Since platinum
does not oxidize or tarnish, these extra
finishes will not harm the ring, instead
presenting a nice texture to contrast with the
meticulously polished areas. It's all just
part of the platinum experience-and of learning
how to "think" platinum.
Because platinum does not oxidize, it is a good
practice to polish individual components before
assembly. This is especially important, if
there are other precious metals included in the
assembly. The platinum must be pre-polished
before the other components are being attached,
as one tends to over-polish the gold portion in
trying to polish the platinum. Platinum is not
difficult, it is just different.
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QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING
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Coming together is a beginning, staying
together is progress, and working together is
success.
Henry Ford
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<=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=>
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BENCH
ROM
The Multi-Media
Magazine for Bench Jewelers
BENCH ROM is an affordable method to learn new
skills and develop your career.
Discover New
Techniques
Learn New Tips to
Improve Your Work
See New Products and Technologies Demonstrated
All right from your home or shop without having
to travel to a seminar or trade show.
“Bench Rom is great,” says jeweler Bill Scores
“It is like being in the shop of a Master
Jeweler and watching over his shoulder.”
Log onto www.BWSimon.com/BenchRom
for more
information or to subscribe
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STEWART'S BENCH TIPS
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Bench Tips from Stewart’s
for Jewelers
KEEPING SEAMS FROM SHOWING IN PLATINUM
By Jim Stewart
http://www.stewartsintlschool.com/
Some platinum rings are lightly rhodium plated
and when you weld, the rhodium is absorbed into
the joint and causes discoloration. I
recommend you emery off the rhodium plating on
the shank before you weld. Also, when sizing
down, cut a small piece from the ring sizing
stock because it will be the same metal as the
ring. Hammer thin and make sure the face of
your hammer is clean. Use this thin piece as
FILLER MATERIAL when welding your platinum
ring.
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QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING
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He that walketh with wise men shall be wise.
Proverbs 13:20
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The Ganoksin Project
www.ganoksin.com
The Gem and Jewelry Pre-Eminent Online
Resources. Open to the
public
Free of Charge.
A substantial library of articles,
publications, reports, and technical data on
gem and jewelry related topics; as well as a
sizable collection of art and jewelry
galleries, for both the casual visitor and the
professional, also host the popular Orchid
online forums for jewelers.
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AT THE PLATINUM BENCH
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Tips that make working with Platinum, or
working at the bench in general, easier from
Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ,
Director of Technical Education
for Platinum Guild International
http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com
For torch casting, a vertical centrifugal
casting machine is the safest, most efficient,
and most reliable way to cast platinum.
Vertical machines have high torque, produce a
rapid centrifugal force, and require very
little maintenance. They are also safer than
horizontal centrifuges - which, if a spill
occurs, can fling molten metal in a waist-high
circle around the shop. A vertical machine has
a straight centrifuge; major spills are very
rare, and if one does occur, the flying metal
is confined to a narrow vertical area.
The vertical casting machine should be mounted
on a sturdy base so that one person can load
the flask from the back while another person
melts the metal at the front. This two-person
approach is important, since with the eye
protection required to melt platinum, the
operator sees virtually nothing but the glow of
melting metal. A machine that’s freestanding
and bolted to the floor offers the best access.
Finally, be sure the crucible used for melting
the metal is specifically designed for the
higher temperatures required by platinum. Use
crucibles made from fused crystalline quartz or
silica Si02+2. Avoid graphite crucibles, since
the carbon can contaminate the platinum.
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QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING
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The best job goes to the person who can get it
done without passing the buck or coming back
with excuses.
Napoleon Hill
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How would you like to learn in just 50 minutes
what it took others years to learn?
YOU CAN!
Learn how to Set Stones, and Create Custom Made
Jewelry, PLUS numerous tips to make your work
at the bench easier, and more efficient from
Certified Master Bench Jeweler Bradney W.
Simon. Each Bench View
CD Rom contains
approximately 50 minutes of video you can watch
on your computer plus articles you can print.
Only $24.95 each or All 5 for $100
For more information or to order log onto:
http://www.bwsimon.com/products.php
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<=> FAVORITE TIPS <=>
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Place a piece of leather or matte board in the
bottom of your lap tray. This will aid you in
cleaning the sweeps out of your lap tray. Pick
up the leather by the corners and dump the
sweeps into the container. This also helps
protect stones from the hard metal bottom of
the lap tray when accidentally dropped.
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Arrange setting burs in order in a bur block.
Then write on the block by each hole the size
of the bur in millimeters. When setting
stones, you will not waste time looking for and
measuring the correct size bur.
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Have two plier racks on your bench. One closer
to your bench pin with the pliers you use all
the time. Have a second one further away, for
example, on the side of your bench top. Keep
the rest of your pliers there. Then, when
reaching for your pliers, it will be easier to
find the one you are looking for.
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Avoid any attempts to increase productivity
that results in a lower quality finished
product. Trying to hurry through jobs usually
has a reverse affect on productivity and
profits. Hurrying through jobs results in more
mistakes causing re-work or damaged stones.
When items have to be replaced, it cuts into
the profits of the shop. When work has to be
redone, it slows productivity. If you do not
have time to do it right, when will you have
time to do it over?
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Be careful when placing jewelry in envelopes.
Often jewelry is damaged further while stored
in the envelopes. Do not force envelopes into a
box for storage. This may bend or dent the
jewelry.
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If you have a tip you would like to share with
our readers send it in an e-mail to
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QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING
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The greatest glory in living lies not in never
falling, but in rising every time we fall.
Nelson Mandela
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Jewelry Dealers
World Trade Network
http://www.JewelryDealersNetwork.com
<=> Bench Jeweler Discussion Channel <=>
>
Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the
ongoing discussions, or just read and take in
all the advice from many excellent jewelers
from around the world.
Membership includes: Topical Discussion
Channels, including
Bench Work, CAD-CAM, Stone Setting, and many
more. You may buy, sell
and trade on the
Buy/Sell Channels, Plus Much More.
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<=> GERRY’S GEMZ <=>
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Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com/index.html
by Gerald N. Lewy
Table leg protectors make excellent diamond
receptacles for the setter’s bench. Home
furnishing stores offer a wide selection of
tiny rubber pads edged with a wide lip. The
ribbed surface variety makes stone retrieval
difficult whereas the smooth, flat, inner
surface variety works best.
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QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING
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Nothing can add more power to your life than
concentrating all of your energies on a limited
set of targets.
Nido Qubein
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New from
MJSA/AJM Press
The AJM Guide to
Lost-Wax Casting
Learn from the masters how to achieve smooth,
porosity-free castings!
The AJM Guide to Lost-
Wax Casting offers an abundance of best
practices, handy tips, and troubleshooting
techniques. How to
create trouble-free master
models to proper breakout procedures.
Contributing experts include:
Charles Lewton-Brain, Jurgen J. Maerz,
Gregg Todd, Michael Bondanza, and many more.
For sample chapters and more information, go to
http://www.ajm-magazine.com/pub_press.php
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<=> WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR
JEWELERS <=> <=>
Workshop Safety Tips From Charles Lewton-Brian
WORK CLOTHING
There is a reason that people in factories wear
work clothing. It is safer. Cotton is good. I
was once grinding a vise in a craft school
workshop and was using a lab coat from the shop
(which I assumed was an appropriate one) while
using an angle grinder. I noticed a burning
smell and looked down to find that there was a
spreading pool of flames on my stomach-the lab
coat was a nylon one and very flammable.
Unthinkingly I patted the flames out only to
have molten lava-like plastic well up through
my fingers making the burn a really bad one in
between the fingers. Make sure your clothing is
flame resistant in a jewelry shop.
Don't ever wear sandals or bare feet (I’ve
heard several bad stories about folks ramming
needles, saw blades etc. deep into their toes).
Steel toed shoes are a good idea (I've met more
than one person who has dropped a stake or
other object on a toe and broken it).
Accordingly, good protective footwear in the
studio is recommended.
Most importantly, using work clothes such as an
apron, overalls or a jump suit helps keep
chemicals and metal residues in the work shop
and out of the rest of your life and your
family's life. Work clothing should be washed
regularly and separately from other laundry.
For more information on Workshop safety from
Charles Lewton-Brian log onto:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/safety.htm
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Thank You for
We are on the World Wide Web.
Visit us at http://www.BWSimon.com
A complete archive of back issues of E-BENCH is
located there.
Visit often, as we will be making changes to
our site, adding additional useful information
for bench jewelers.
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<=> SUBSCRIPTION
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We value every subscriber and respect your
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To subscribe, log onto:
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If you change your e-mail address, PLEASE let
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Information provided in this document is
provided ‘As Is’ without warranty of any kind,
either expressed or implied.
This publication
is designed to provide accurate and
authoritative information concerning the
subject matter covered.
It is provided with
the understanding that the author or publisher
is not engaged in rendering legal, accounting,
or other professional services. If legal
advice or other expert assistance is required,
the services of a competent professional person
should be sought.
< <
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For editorial suggestions, comments, ideas
or requests, please send an E-Mail to
Bradney W. Simon mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com
Copyrighted, 2005, BENCH MEDIA.
All rights reserved.
BENCH MEDIA
864 - 680 – 4416
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