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E-BENCH <=> <=>
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The E-Mail Newsletter
for Bench Jewelers
February 2005
Volume 6 Issue 2
circulation over 3,500
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<=> <=> ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER <=>
<=>
E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for Retail
Jewelry Store Owners, Shop Managers, Bench
Jewelers and Anyone Else That Is Interested.
We encourage you to forward this newsletter to
anyone that you think may benefit
from it,
provided you forward all of it
without
modification and not just portions of
it.
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E-BENCH is a BENCH MEDIA Publication
BENCH MEDIA is a B W Simon Company
Bradney W Simon – Publisher
Daniel R. Spirer - Proofreader
daniel@spirerjewelers.com
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<=>
<=> <=> TABLE OF CONTENTS <=>
<=> <=>
Tips for Jewelers,
Who Do Repairs from Alan Revere
FEATURE ARTICLE
Learn how to make your shop more profitable, a
new technique, or brush up on basic
skills.
STEWART'S BENCH TIPS
Bench Tips from
Stewart’s
AT THE PLATINUM BENCH
Tips for working on Platinum from
Platinum Guild International
FAVORITE TIPS
Tips and Tricks to make your work on the bench
a little easier and more productive
from
Bradney W. Simon CMBJ and E-BENCH Readers.
GERRY’S GEMZ
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR JEWELERS
Tips from Charles Lewton-Brian
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<=>
<=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=>
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2nd Annual
Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo
More Seminars, More Variety, plus Round Table
Discussion Groups highlight this year’s
Educational Conference. Seating is limited so
REGISTER EARLY to guarantee your seat.
The Supplier’s Expo features New Exhibitors and
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RESTERATION DEADLINE MARCH 15th
Seminars Are Filling Up Fast
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<=>
<=>
Tips for Jewelers Who Do Repairs
from Alan Revere
To reduce the likelihood of losing little
stones, findings, jump rings, and pieces of
precious metal make a recessed dish in the top
of your bench pin. Simply draw a rectangle
about 15 mm by 30 mm, near the back. Wearing
goggles and a dust mask, use a coarse cut round
bur to carve down about 3 mm within the
rectangle. It is important to frequently
measure the depth while carving to ensure a
flat floor.
Now you have a convenient little trough for
holding pieces and parts. Because it is
recessed, you can even lay a piece of sheet or
other large items right on your bench pin,
without fear of disturbing the small items
hidden below.
This Tip is from “101 Bench Tips for Jewelers"
written by Alan Revere and published by
MJSA/AJM Press.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=>
<=>
Only in growth, reform and change,
paradoxically enough, is true security to be
found.
Anne Morrow Lindbergh
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<=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=>
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CALL FOR
ENTRIES
The first Bench Jewelers Passion Award Design
Competition will be held in conjunction with
the Bench Jewelers Conference &
Expo April 22 –
24 in
per category in up to three
categories in both
the Finished Jewelry and CAD
Rendering
Divisions. Deadline for submissions is March
15, 2005.
For details Contest Rules and to enter log
onto: www.BWSimon.com/DesignContest
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<=>
<=> <=> FEATURE ARTICLE <=>
<=> <=>
CHAIN REACTION
By Bradney W. Simon CMBJ
Repairing broken chains is one of the two most
often performed jobs in the shop. (Sizing
rings is the other.) The difficulty of chain
repair lies in the fact that the chain is made
up of fine wires. These wires heat up quickly
when trying to melt the solder.
Two problems can develop. The first is if the
wire link gets too hot, it will quickly melt as
you are trying to solder. When a link melts it
forms a small ball of gold fused onto the next
link. This of course melts forming a larger
ball on the next link. This then melts forming
a larger ball, etc., creating a chain
reaction.
The other problem is, if too long of a section
of chain is heated, the solder will flow from
one link to the next. From there the solder
will flow to the next link on down the chain.
It is that chain reaction thing again. This
will cause several links to solder together
forming a stiff place in the chain.
Both of these reactions by the chain result in
an unsatisfactory repair.
Jewelers have devised many ways to over-come
these problems. They include coating the chain
with an anti-flux such as yellow ocher or white
out, and covering the chain with a heat sink
such as a washer, razor blade, or coins. My
preferred method is to use paste solder and to
master the art of torch control.
The method to repair a chain using paste solder
is as follows.
Inspect the Chain
Look over the chain to ascertain how the links
are put together. In order to re-assemble the
chain where it is broken you must know how the
links are assembled. At this point look for
other areas in the chain that need repairs.
Although the salesperson taking in the repair
should have already done this, it is a good
idea to double-check their work.
Remove Damaged Links
Trim off any damaged links from the broken ends
of the chain.
Cut End Links
The end link needs to be cut in order to re-
assemble the chain. Some chains require you to
cut one or two links on each side. The number
depends on how the chain is assembled. You can
cut the links with a fine saw blade, small end
cutters, or a cut-off wheel in your
flex shaft.
Re-Assemble the Chain
Lay the chain on a clean ceramic soldering
board. Using your tweezers fit the two ends of
the chain back together. Then squeeze the
links closed. Once assembled it is often
difficult to find the break in the chain. To
help you find the break, mark the broken links
with a felt tip marker before assembly. On
some chains, like rope chains, you can add the
solder to the broken link before
assembly.
Another method to help you locate the break in
the chain is to cut a line down the center of a
ceramic soldering board using a cut-off wheel
in your flex-shaft or with the edge of a
diamond file. Then, lay the chain on the
soldering board placing the broken link over
this line. With this method you can lay out
several chains about 1" apart. Then start at
one end of the solder board and solder the
first chain, and then proceed to the next one.
With all the chains laid out, you can quickly
solder each one and the line shows you where to
solder, with no time wasted trying to find the
correct link.
Add the Solder
Apply a small amount of paste solder to the
joint. Do not coat the chain with boric acid.
The flux in the paste solder is all that is
needed for the solder to flow. The slight
oxidation on the chain from the heat will help
keep the solder from flowing to the other
links.
Heat the Chain
With a small pointed (oxidizing) flame heat the
ceramic soldering pad next to the joint in the
chain. Do not use a bushy (reducing) flame as
you will heat too much of the chain. On most
chains, you will not need to place the flame
directly on the chain. Place the flame on the
solder pad and let the reflected heat melt the
solder. This will help keep you from melting
the chain. On larger chains, heat the solder
pad on one side of the chain, then quickly move
the flame across the chain to the other side.
Heat the pad on this side and then move back
across the chain. Repeat the process if the
solder has not completely flowed. However
never direct the flame on the chain for any
length of time. Move it quickly across the
joint and heat the solder pad allowing the
reflected heat to melt the solder.
Clean the Chain
When cool, hold the joint of the chain on your
bench pin and clean off all flux and oxidation
with a scratch brush. A brass brush or a small
satin finish brush in your flex-shaft works
well. The new 3M Radial Bristle Discs are
excellent for this purpose. I prefer the blue
wheels and stack 4 to 6 on my mandrel at one
time. Pickling the chain before doing this can
help, but is often not necessary.
Polish the Chain
DO NOT Polish Chains On A Polishing Machine. I
do not know of any other procedure in the shop
that has cut and broken more fingers than a
chain that becomes tangled around a polishing
wheel (not to mention the expense of replacing
a customer’s chain). Polishing machines love
chains. They eat them up. Come near a
polishing machine with a chain and it will
snatch it right out of your hand and wrap it
around its wheel and arbor.
To polish, lay the chain across your bench pin.
Then hold the chain down tight with your thumb
and index finger. With a bristle brush in your
flex shaft polish at a medium speed the area of
chain between your thumb and finger. Polish
the chain little by little in this manner. It
is a safe and efficient means to accomplish the
task.
If properly repaired, your customer will return
with a different chain for you to repair, and
then a third. Eventually they will return to
purchase jewelry. Now, that is a chain
reaction we can all live with.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=>
<=>
There is more to life than to increase its
speed.
Mohandas Gandhi
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ROM
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<=> <=> STEWART'S BENCH TIPS <=>
<=>
Bench Tips from Stewart’s
for Jewelers
http://www.stewartsintlschool.com/
Sometimes when trying to tighten a diamond the
prongs spring back up. To tighten the diamond
in these situations you need to tighten the
diamond VECTORALLY. Using a non-serrated,
pointed nose pliers bend the adjacent prongs
slightly, just below the girdle, towards each
other and go all the way around the diamond.
To "SQUARE OFF" a diamond in a four prong
setting, the prong should rest on the upper
girdle facet (Split Facet) with the tip of the
prong to the lower edge of the Star Facet.
Place the prongs at the corners of either
square.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=>
<=>
He who every morning plans the transactions of
the day and follows out that plan carries a
thread that will guide him through the
labyrinth of the most busy life. The orderly
arrangement of his time is like a ray of life
which darts itself through all his occupations.
But where no plan is laid, where the disposal
of time is surrendered merely to the chance of
incidents, chaos will soon reign.
Victor Higo
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<=> <=> <=>
E-BENCH SPONSOR <=> <=>
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The Ganoksin
Project
www.ganoksin.com
The Gem and Jewelry Pre-Eminent Online
Resources. Open to the public
Free of Charge.
A substantial library of articles,
publications, reports, and technical
data on
gem and jewelry related topics; as
well as a
sizable collection of art and jewelry
galleries, for both the casual visitor
and the
professional, also host the popular
Orchid
online forums for jewelers.
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<=> <=> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <=>
<=>
Tips that working with Platinum or working at
the bench in general - easier from
Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ,
Director of Technical Education
for Platinum Guild International
http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com
To cast platinum your torch should have a
multiport or rosebud tip that’s screwed on
rather than soldered. Solder could melt in the
platinum’s reflected heat, causing the tip to
fall into the molten metal and splash
platinum.
In addition, your torch must have a built-in
flashback arrestor, to prevent gas from flowing
back into the tank in case of a pressure
change. This is an important safety
feature.
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=>
<=>
A gentle answer turns away wrath, but a harsh
word stirs up anger.
Proverbs 15:1
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<=>
<=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=>
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How would you like to learn in just 50 minutes
what it took others years to
learn?
YOU CAN!
Learn how to Set Stones, and Create Custom Made
Jewelry, PLUS numerous tips to make your work
at the bench easier, and more
efficient from
Certified Master Bench Jeweler Bradney W.
Simon. Each Bench View
CD Rom contains
approximately 50 minutes of video you
can watch
on your computer plus articles you
can print.
Only $24.95 each or All 5 for $100
For more information or to order log onto:
http://www.bwsimon.com/products.php
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<=> <=> <=>
FAVORITE TIPS <=> <=>
<=>
A bench mounted ring shank
bender is almost a
necessity to curve the gold stock needed to
size a heavy gents ring up or to form a 1/2
shank.
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To increase productivity at
the bench, place
tools used most often within your primary
reach. Place other tools within
your secondary
reach.
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A sign in my dentist office
reads “You don’t
have to brush and floss all your teeth. Only
the ones you want to keep!
The same applies to
take-ins. You don’t have
to check every stone. Just
the ones you don’t
want to replace!
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When filing, hold the work steady and move only
the file, paying attention to the angle at
which you are holding the file. Work with
steady, even, long strokes. Frantic aggressive
filing or short, broken, "fiddly” strokes will
produce inaccurate results.
< <
< < < <> > > > > >
On finer jewelry, you will
want to cut a square
or triangle shaped azure. This
results in a
look like bright cutting on the back side of
the jewelry. To begin, cut a
tapered hole with
a bud bur. Then, using a
hart bur held
sideways cut your corners in each hole.
Next,
use a small wheel bur to clean away the metal
between the corners. Then use a
polished flat
graver to clean up and polish your cuts.
< <
< < < <> > > > > >
If you have a tip you would like to share with
our readers send it in an e-mail to
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=>
<=>
The thing with which I lose patience most is
the clock. Its hands move too fast.
Thomas Edison
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Discussion Channel <=> >
Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the
ongoing discussions, or just read and
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all the advice from many excellent
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Membership includes: Topical Discussion
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Buy/Sell Channels, Plus Much More.
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<=> <=> <=>
GERRY’S GEMZ <=> <=>
<=>
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com/index.html
by Gerald N. Lewy
When you secure stones in settings use a soft
metal pusher. I suggest a copper or brass
pusher. This will prevent making deep marks in
the prongs, which can be difficult to remove
later.
I use flat-edge and tapered-edge pumice wheels
of #180 grit on all of my setting items. It’s
not because of being rough on my work but
because it’s a mark of a “careful, high quality
setter”. I remove all of the plier marks,
graver slipping, and just the general rough
edges left by the ‘casting house’. I don’t
want my polishing sub-contractor, to grind away
more than he has to in finishing my setting
work.
Just before you remove a diamond or any
precious gemstone, observe any inclusions or
defects in the stone. Always keep your 10X
‘Triplet Loupe’ at your side. Take note and
record any inclusions or have the client view
the inclusions themselves. I speak from
experience. If you are in doubt about a stone,
DON’T SET IT. Being an overly cautious setter
is far more rewarding than paying for a stone
replacement.
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=>
<=>
Failing to plan is a plan to fail.
Effie Jones
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<=>
<=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=>
<=> <=>
New from
MJSA/AJM Press
The AJM Guide to
Lost-Wax Casting
Learn from the masters how to achieve smooth,
porosity-free castings! The AJM Guide to Lost-
Wax Casting offers an abundance of best
practices, handy tips, and
troubleshooting
techniques. How to create trouble-free master
models to proper breakout procedures.
Contributing experts include:
Charles Lewton-Brain, Jurgen J. Maerz,
Gregg Todd, Michael Bondanza,
and many more.
For sample chapters and more information, go to
http://www.ajm-magazine.com/pub_press.php
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> WORKSHOP SAFETY
FOR JEWELERS <=> <=>
Workshop Safety Tips From Charles Lewton-Brian
The main exposure routes for chemicals are by
breathing them in (inhalation), eating and
drinking materials (ingestion)-which can also
happen when large particles are breathed in,
brought into the throat by lung clearing
mechanisms and swallowed, and by touching
things (absorption). Do not eat or drink in the
workshop. If you have to have a drink use the
kind of containers with a cap on the end of a
straw - this may reduce your potential chemical
contact. A friend had his vitamins in the
studio, accidentally downed a ruby instead and
searched all over for the stone before
realizing where it was.
For more information on Workshop safety from
Charles Lewton-Brian log onto:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/safety.htm
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> Thank You for
We are on the World Wide Web.
Visit us at http://www.BWSimon.com
A complete archive of back issues of E-BENCH is
located there.
Visit often, as we will be making changes to
our site, adding additional useful
information
for bench jewelers.
<=>
<=> SUBSCRIPTION
INFORMATION <=> <=>
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< <
< < < <> > > > > >
Information provided in this document is
provided ‘As Is’ without warranty of
any kind,
either expressed or implied. This publication
is designed to provide accurate and
authoritative information concerning
the
subject matter covered. It is provided with
the understanding that the author or
publisher
is not engaged in rendering legal,
accounting,
or other professional services. If legal
advice or other expert assistance is
required,
the services of a competent
professional person
should be sought.
< <
< < < <> > > > > >
For editorial suggestions, comments, ideas
or requests, please send an E-Mail to
Bradney W. Simon mailto:Brad@BWSimon.com
Copyrighted, 2005, BENCH MEDIA.
All rights reserved.
BENCH MEDIA
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