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E-BENCH <=> <=>
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The E-Mail Newsletter
for Bench Jewelers
April 2006
Volume 7 Issue 04
circulation over 4,100
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<=> <=> ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER <=>
<=>
E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for Retail
Jewelry Store Owners, Shop Managers, Bench
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<=>
<=> <=> TIPS FOR JEWELERS <=>
<=> <=>
Tips for Jewelers Who Do Repairs
From Alan Revere
A FILE-SAFE PLAN:
Modifying Files for Working Near
Stones
Most flat and square files—both large hand
files and small needle files—have
cutting
surfaces on all four sides and
edges. The
sharp edges are great if you want to
carve a 90
degree groove into a piece of metal,
but then
can be problematic for certain
applications,
such as finishing a bezel
setting. If you want
to clean up the top of a setting, a
file with
sharp cutting surfaces and edges all
around
will put the stone in danger. However, with a
little effort, you can modify a file
that will
allow you to play it safe.
First, prepare a safe surface on the one side
of a fine-cut (#4 or #6) square
needle file.
(Note: You can also use the following steps to
modify barrette needle files, which
are great
for finishing prongs.) To do this, carefully
lay one side of the file against the
spinning
wheel of a bench grinder and draw it
across,
removing the abrasive cuts on that
side of the
file.
Repeat until the cuts are completely
removed.
After rough grinding, take the file to an oiled
sharpening stone—the kind you use to
sharpen
gravers, drill bits, blades,
etc. Hold the
file flat against the stone and rub
it back and
forth to smooth the new surface and
remove
marks left by grinding. When the surface is
smooth, knock the cuts off the edges
on both
sides of the newly cleaned surface.
With all remnants of the original cuts removed,
use progressively finer grits of
abrasive paper
to bring the surface and adjacent
edges to a
polish. Begin with 220 grit paper held against
a flat surface. Proceed to 320, 400 and 600
grit.
Finish up with 4/0 polishing paper.
The
file should shine on one side.
And with that you have a file that is safe
for finishing bezels and prongs. Keeping in
mind that all stones can be damaged
by
abrasion, place the safe surface very
lightly
against the stone and file the
setting to
perfection.
This tip is from 101 Bench Tips for Jewelers
written by Alan Revere and published
by
MJSA/AJM Press.
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=>
<=>
There is one quality that one must possess to
win, and that is definiteness of purpose, the
knowledge of what one wants, and a burning
desire to possess it.
Napoleon Hill
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The
Ganoksin Project
www.ganoksin.com
The Gem and Jewelry Pre-Eminent Online
Resources. Open to the public
Free of
Charge.
A substantial library of articles,
publications, reports, and technical
data on
gem and jewelry related topics; as
well as a
sizable collection of art and jewelry
galleries, for both the casual
visitor and the
professional, also host the popular
Orchid
online forums for jewelers.
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<=>
<=> <=> COLORED STONES <=>
<=> <=>
Learn all about handling colored stones from
gemstone cutter
ALEXANDRITE
Alexandrite is the color-change variety of the
mineral chrysoberyl. Generally, the change is
from some shade of bluish-green or olive-green
in daylight to some shade of purplish-red or
brownish-red in incandescent light. The
primary basis to the value of this very
expensive stone is the quality of the color
change. Most stones (not all) available today
are from
although there are some occasional fine stones
from there and from
Currently, fine stones in the 1-2 carat range
can be found at $2,000 to $6,000 per carat, and
fine stones in the 3-5 carat range are seen in
the $5,000 to $8,000/c range. Extra fine
stones are much higher, up to $14,000 per carat
and that is often for poorly cut goods! The
weight loss suffered when cutting to proper
proportions and angles is usually considered
cost prohibitive.
Alexandrite is quite hard, 8.5 on the Mohs
scale, and exhibits excellent toughness. While
most Brazilian material is very clean stones
from other locations often have many
characteristic inclusions. While that is a
great help in proving the stone is natural,
some of these inclusions can split or even
explode on application of heat. Considering
the high cost of replacement, it is a wise idea
to remove an alexandrite from the setting for
all but the slightest of torch work. The
pickle should cause no problems and the
ultrasonic also should not cause any problems
but avoid sudden heat changes in a hot
ultrasonic.
True synthetic alexandrite is available. In
gemological terms, the word synthetic means
that the material has all the chemical and
physical attributes of the natural material.
It is not an imitation or simulant; it IS the
same as the natural material except that it is
produced in a laboratory as opposed to having
been dug out of the ground. Many dealers and
jewelers prefer to use the term laboratory
grown or cultured because they feel the term
synthetic is confused with cheap by the public.
In reality, there are some very inexpensive
synthetics and there are some rather expensive
luxury synthetics, and they all fill a certain
demand in the marketplace.
True synthetic alexandrite is one of the more
costly synthetics and the degree of color
change is dependant on the skill of the cutter
and the amount of waste the cutter finds
acceptable. This all conspires to drive the
price upwards, and good synthetic alexandrite
currently trades at wholesale at about $90 per
carat to over $200 per carat, depending on
size. Independent cutters often charge less
and the cutting is better, as well.
Because most synthetic alexandrite is nearly
flawless, the material is exceptionally durable
and heat resistant. Prolonged direct torch
heat is to be avoided, but the pickle and
ultrasonic are problem free.
You can contact
wayne_emery@msn.com
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=>
<=>
Visualization is daydreaming with a purpose.
Bo Bennett
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<=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=>
<=> <=>
For over 60 years,
jewelry supplier, has provided quality
products, unsurpassed selection and legendary
service to help professional jewelers
succeed.
* Gems & Findings division offers finished
jewelry, findings and gemstones
* Display & Packaging division offers
innovative display and packaging
* Tools division offers equipment and supplies
Call us at 1-800-545-6566 or visit us at
www.riogrande.com.
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2006 Bench
Jewelers Passion
Award Design
Contest Winners
The 2006 Passion Awards winners were announced
at the Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo in
winners of the contest listed by
category.
Jewelers Choice Award
David E. Lee
CAD Rendering, Mens Jewelry
Dave Delaria Jr.
Deric Metzger
CAD Rendering, Ladies Jewelry
Kim Fox
Greg Stopka
CAD Rendering, Ladies Ring
Tom McLaughlin
Joel McFadden
CAD Rendering, Jewelry Suite
Timothy W. Lulloff
Finished Jewelry, Mens Jewelry
Ward Stogdill
Wes Roth
Finished Jewelry, Ladies Jewelry
David E. Lee
Ross Arterberry
Award of Merit
Darold Lerch
Dave Delaria Jr
Joseph Bonasso
Michael Goralski
Michael Ponthieux
Finished Jewelry, Ladies Ring
Michael Ponthieux
Ward Stogdill
Award of Merit
Dawn Muscio
Joel Mc Fadden
Nanz Aalund
Tom McLaughlin
Yevgeny Ponomaryov
Holly Scott
Finished Jewelry, Jewelry Suite
Nina Basharova
Jeremy Fenton
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=>
<=>
Your attitude, not your aptitude, will
determine your altitude.
Zig Ziglar
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Jewelry Dealers
World Trade Network
http://www.JewelryDealersNetwork.com
<=> Bench Jeweler
Discussion Channel <=>
Ask questions, share tips, and take part in the
ongoing discussions, or just read and
take in
all the advice from many excellent
jewelers
from around the world.
Membership includes: Topical Discussion
Channels, including
Bench Work, CAD-CAM, Stone Setting, and many
more.
You may buy, sell and trade on the
Buy/Sell Channels, Plus Much More.
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<=> <=> AT THE PLATINUM BENCH <=>
<=>
Tips that make working with Platinum or
working at the bench in general
easier-
from Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ,
Director of Technical Education
for Platinum Guild International
http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com
Making a Better Bench Pin:
THE STORAGE AREA
Want a handy receptacle for storing beeswax or
small parts? Using a bur, cut into your
benchpin a 1.5 inch by 1 inch indentation that
measures about 3 millimeters deep. You now
have a convenient place to temporarily store
stones and other small items.
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Platinum Guild International and Bench Media Present – Bench
Seminars
Master Level Seminars presented by two of the
Industrys Foremost Seminar Leaders. Seminars
include: Platinum Bench Techniques, Advanced
Fabrication, Advanced Stone Setting, and Bench
Tips & Other Tricks.
Seminar Leaders
will present these seminars in
28th,
Angeles) August 25th,
22nd, and
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<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=>
<=>
It takes 20 years to build a reputation and
five minutes to ruin it. If you think about
that, you will do things differently.
Warren Buffett
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Southeastern Findings
Southeastern Findings has been a leader in the
wholesale jewelry business for the
past 27
years servicing the Independent
Jeweler. We
are Findings, Diamonds, Wedding
Bands, Jewelry
Boxes, Platinum, Batteries, Tools, and So Much
More.
Call us Today at 1-800-282-8285 or
visit us on
the World Wide Web www.sefindings.com
Namano /
Southeastern Findings
Your Home for
Southern Hospitality
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<=> <=> <=>
Gemz from Gerry <=> <=>
<=>
Stone setting tips from Gemz Diamond Setting
http://www.gemzdiamondsetting.com/index.html
by Gerald N. Lewy
Protecting the culet is one of the most basic
and most overlooked areas of setting any size
of stone. As this part of the diamond is one
of the most vulnerable areas, it can chip
easily. So how do we adjust for this potential
calamity on claw settings? I always use #009
round burs, nothing too large, but small enough
to free the culet from touching any metal. I
will literally dig down to the depth the ball.
I will also visualize the location of the
intended culet and ask myself: Is the hole well
positioned? Will it free the culet? Will the
hole cut interfere with the security of the
adjoining claws?
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=>
<=>
Goals are new, forward-moving objectives. They
magnetize you towards them.
Mark Victor Hansen
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BENCH
VISION
A Video Magazine for
Bench Jewelers on DVD
Each quarterly issue contains 1 hour of video
training including: Stone Setting,
Jewelry
Repair, and Custom Jewelry
Manufacturing. Plus
Bench Tips, Bench Visits, and New Product
Reviews.
Only $95 per year in the
and Only $125 per year for oversea
delivery.
www.BWSimon.com/BenchVision
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<=> <=> WORKSHOP SAFETY
FOR JEWELERS <=> <=>
Workshop Safety Tips From Charles Lewton-Brian
RESPIRATORS
If you have to use a respirator there is
something seriously wrong.
If you think you need a respirator to do
something red flags should be waving in front
of your eyes and alarm bells ringing in your
mind. If you have to use a respirator there is
something really wrong with your ventilation
system and working processes. And when you take
it off, whatever it was you are afraid of will
still be there, an invisible dust (such as
cristabolite investment) on all surfaces that
merely walking past later will stir up into the
air so you can breathe it in.
The same thing applies to chemicals and metal
fumes (which deposit as an extremely fine
dust). If you are using a respirator in your
normal working space what you are admitting is
that you desperately need a proper ventilation
system. A respirator should be a tool of last
resort, a backup, an emergency thing. And if
you are using one make sure it is correct for
your face and the chemicals and fumes you are
protecting yourself from. Talk to your safety
supply company representative, or better still
several of them. Rossol and McCann have good
sections on which respirators serve for which
purposes and there is a ton of information on
the internet on the subject.
Keep your respirator in a plastic bag when not
in use to help keep the filters absorption in
good shape. Change the filters by their
expiration dates or more frequently if used a
lot. Half face respirators serve for some
purposes. I personally like Israeli gas masks
for some things: they are built for guys with
beards.
For more information on Workshop safety from
Charles Lewton-Brian log onto:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/safety.htm
((((((((((((((((((()))))))))))))))))))
<=> <=> QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=>
<=>
Look at life through the windshield, not the
rear-view mirror.
Byrd Baggett
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JewelersTraining.com is designed by Jewelers
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jewelers with the best online jewelry
education
with On Demand Videos and other
training
resources.
Log onto JewelersTraining.com Today and sign-up
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Visit us at http://www.BWSimon.com
A complete archive of back issues of E-BENCH is
located there.
Visit often, as we will be making changes to
our site, adding additional useful
information
for bench jewelers.
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Information provided in this document is
provided As Is without warranty of
any kind,
either expressed or implied. This publication
is designed to provide accurate and
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