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E-BENCH <=> <=>
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The E-Mail Newsletter
for Bench Jewelers
February 2007
Volume 8 Issue 2
circulation over 4,600
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CALL FOR ENTRIES
The third annual Bench Jewelers Passion Award
Design Competition will be held in conjunction
with the Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo April
26 – 29 in
of the finished jewelry or CAD renderings are
to be submitted over the Internet. Jewelers
may enter one piece per category in up to three
categories in each Division.
NEW Categories for 2007- Laser Welded Jewelry
and Design Team.
Deadline for submissions is
http://www.bwsimon.com/DesignContest/
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ABOUT THIS NEWSLETTER
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E-BENCH is a FREE monthly newsletter for Retail
Jewelry Store Owners, Shop Managers, Bench
Jewelers and anyone else that is interested.
We encourage you to forward this newsletter to
anyone that you think may benefit from it,
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E-BENCH is a BENCH MEDIA Publication
BENCH MEDIA is a division of
B W Simon International
Bradney W Simon – Publisher
Daniel R. Spirer - Proofreader
daniel@spirerjewelers.com
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4th
Annual
Bench Jewelers
Conference & Expo
Pre-Conference
Seminar April 26th
For More Information & to Register log onto:
http://www.BWSimon.com/Conference
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Southeastern Findings
Southeastern Findings has been a leader in the
wholesale jewelry business for the past 27
years servicing the Independent Jeweler. We
are Findings, Diamonds, Wedding Bands, Jewelry
Boxes, Platinum, Batteries, Tools, and So Much
More.
Call us Today at 1-800-282-8285 or visit us on
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Your Home for
Southern Hospitality
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<=>
<=> <=> TIPS FOR JEWELERS <=>
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Tips for Jewelers Who Do Repairs
From Alan Revere
NO SWEAT: Sweat Soldering Made Easy
Nearly every bench jeweler who has tried it
finds soldering a small piece of sheet cleanly
and perfectly onto a larger one exceedingly
difficult. Soldering a pierced monogram onto a
sheet, for instance, is no simple matter. Most
bench jewelers would sweat solder the pieces
together (i.e. solder them in stages) by first
flowing solder onto the back of the monogram
and then placing it onto the sheet. The
assembly is heated, and the two pieces join
when the solder flows for a second time.
The trick is to have just the right amount of
solder in the right places. Too often, not all
areas of the seam are soldered completely, or
they are flooded with too much solder (or
both). To sweat solder with accuracy, you must
first properly prepare the top piece to receive
the solder, by routing out metal from the back.
Use a pair of dividers to trace the outline
onto the back, leaving an inscribed border
about 0.5 mm inside the edge. Now, with a ball
bur, carve away the surface about 0.2 mm deep,
leaving the border intact. Flow the solder
into the recessed area and then file the
surface, so that the solder and the surrounding
edge are perfectly flat. Place the monogram in
position on the clean backing and trace it with
a pencil. Flux within the traced outline, then
flux and position the monogram. Heat from
below—and watch with delight as the monogram
settles gently into place, with a perfectly
even seam all around. Once you have tried
this, you will never attempt sweat soldering
any other way!
This tip is from 101 Bench Tips for Jewelers
written by Alan Revere and published by
MJSA/AJM Press.
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QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Not everything that counts can be counted, and
not everything that can be counted counts.
Albert Einstein
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For over 60 years,
jewelry supplier, has provided quality
products, unsurpassed selection and legendary
service to help professional jewelers succeed.
* Gems & Findings division offers finished
jewelry, findings and gemstones
* Display & Packaging division offers
innovative display and packaging
* Tools division offers equipment and supplies
Call us at 1-800-545-6566 or visit us at
http://www.riogrande.com
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<=>
<=> <=> COLORED STONES <=>
<=> <=>
Learn all about handling colored stones from
gemstone cutter
CORUNDUM
Part 2
Sapphire left for many hours in a warm pickle
solution can develop a very thin surface
oxidation that looks like oil on water.
Sometimes this can be removed by rubbing the
loose stone briskly between your hands with a
tablespoon of ordinary table salt, but
sometimes this surface needs to be re-polished
by a lapidary. Sapphires worn for many years
also can develop this surface, especially blue
stones.
A more recent type of corundum treatment
involves the use of beryllium, and, perhaps,
lithium. When heated to very elevated
temperatures near the melting point for ten
hours or more, many of the natural inclusions
in sapphire begin to dissolve in the presence
of beryllium. In some instances, the beryllium
penetrates completely to the center of the
stone and can cause startling color changes.
Pastel, off-color corundum, or overly dark
material formerly of little value, can now be
treated with beryllium to create stunning
orange, pink-orange, yellow, lilac, and even
blue colors.
Sometimes this treatment is possible to detect
with a loupe or microscope, but sometimes it
challenges the finest labs. Occasionally when
the inclusions have been only partially melted,
a blue halo can be seen surrounding the
partially melted crystals, especially in ruby.
What effect these treatments will have on
corundum in the future is open to speculation,
but for our purposes, it is moot. The
beryllium treatment is permanent, and ordinary
cautious heat from a torch and use of an
ultrasonic cleaner will present no problems.
Remember that when using an ultrasonic with hot
cleaning solution or a steamer, it is always
wise to bring the temperature of the stone up
gradually to avoid the risk of thermal shock
and cracking.
Laboratory grown (synthetic) sapphire or ruby
is readily available in a wide range of colors.
Because of its purity, synthetic sapphire is
somewhat harder then natural. Some of this
material, particularly ruby, (see photo) is
grown by the Czochralski pulling method for
laser production and the resulting crystal is
nearly perfect at the a
material is a favorite of many cutters,
including myself. It is nearly indestructible
and can easily handle torch heat if it is not
excessive or very prolonged.
You can contact
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QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING
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I am a great believer in luck and I find the
harder I work, the more I have of it.
Thomas Jefferson
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<=> <=> E-BENCH SPONSOR <=>
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MJSA Expo
Cutting-edge technologies, the latest
equipment, new supplies, in-demand services,
the finest gemstones in the AGTA Pavilion, and
a premier selection of finished products in the
MJSA Gems & Jewelry Showcase, all at one
location:
trade show in the
manufacturing (more than 400 exhibits), and a
full schedule of technical and educational
seminars as well as live demonstrations on the
show floor, where attendees can see the latest
manufacturing techniques and technologies in
action at no additional cost.
MJSA Expo
For more information or to register online,
visit: http://www.mjsa.org
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Tips & Tricks from
FILES
Because the file is such a simple looking tool,
most people are fooled into thinking that there
is no right way to use it. This is not true
however. Proper filing is essential in jewelry
work. An efficient stroke of the file is a
very important operation that is often
neglected by beginners. Filing incorrectly
waste time and causes unnecessary work.
Careless filing wastes precious metal. Jewelers
should always strive to conserve the maximum
amount of metal, even more important now that
metal prices have risen so high. Proper filing
to a large extent, determines whether the
finished jewelry will look professional or
amateurish.
All files are designed to cut on the forward or
push stroke. The backward or pull stroke does
no cutting, it only returns the file to the
start position, ready for the next cutting
stroke. An efficient file stroke is smooth,
steady, and even using the full length of the
file. Use just enough pressure to keep the
file cutting during the entire stroke. Many
jewelers develop the habit of lifting the file
from the metal surface for the return stroke.
Others leave the file in contact but allow it
to lightly slide back to the tip. Pressure is
then again applied on the cutting stroke. As
with all techniques, each jeweler gradually
develops an individual way of filing.
Regardless of how one eventually develops the
filing stroke, the important thing to realize
is that the tool is designed to cut only on the
forward movement.
Hold the jewelry firmly, unstable work leads to
inaccurate filing. When possible, it is best
to hold the jewelry with your hand, firmly
supported on the bench pin.
You should always take great care when filing.
It is impossible to replace the metal removed
by each stroke of a file. Always take care
that you do not file away too much metal,
especially around a solder joint. When filing
to remove excess solder, often the mistake is
made of filing too much resulting in thinning
the metal. Stop filing when the outline of the
solder is just barely visible. Sanding to
prepare the metal for polishing will remove the
remaining solder. If you continue to file
until all evidence of the solder is removed;
the metal will be thinned more than necessary
after sanding.
Filing is the first step toward finishing a
piece and it is important that you use the
files in the correct sequence (coarser to
finer). Then any marks made by one are removed
by the next. When you have finished filing,
the surface should have a pattern of scratches
that is consistent in depth. It is important
that the scratches be made uniform before
moving on to the next finer abrasive.
Roughing out should be done quickly. For
speedy filing the answer is in method, not
muscle. As finer files are used, a lighter
stroke is needed. In finishing the job a
delicate touch or feel for the work comes into
play and spells the difference between a
superior and a mediocre job.
You can contact Brad at Brad@BWSimon.com
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QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING
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The secret of joy in work is contained in one
word - excellence. To know how to do something
well is to enjoy it.
Pearl S. Buck
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The
Ganoksin Project
www.ganoksin.com
The Gem and Jewelry Pre-Eminent Online
Resources. Open to the
public
Free of
Charge.
A substantial library of articles,
publications, reports, and technical data on
gem and jewelry related topics; as well as a
sizable collection of art and jewelry
galleries, for both the casual visitor and the
professional, also host the popular Orchid
online forums for jewelers.
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AT THE PLATINUM BENCH
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Tips that make working with Platinum or
working at the bench in general easier-
from Jurgen J. Maerz CMBJ,
Director of Technical Education
for Platinum Guild International
http://www.pgi-platinum-tech.com
PEARL CLAMP
It is important to use a vise to secure a pearl
while drilling to avoid the pearl slipping and
accidentally drilling into your fingers. A
wooden spring action clothespin can be easily
modified to do this job.
First, with a large ball bur, carve an
indentation into the interior of each jaw. The
indentations should be just deep enough to keep
the pearl from slipping out during drilling.
Now all you have to do is insert the pearl into
the clothespins jaws, and allow the pins light
pressure to securely hold the pearl during
drilling.
When you want to glue an earring post to the
pearl you can use this new clamp as well.
Simply cut a slot in the front end of one of
the clothespin jaws, wide enough to fit the new
post. Then open the clothespin, rest the pearl
between the jaws, and fit the post through the
slot. Once closed the clothespin will again
apply enough pressure to secure the assembly
and ensure that the glue affixes properly.
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CLASP - A Convergence of Jewelers
http://www.claspconvergence.com
Clasp is an innovative
conference produced by
Media, Ganoksin (parent to
the Orchid Forums),
Manufacturing Jewelers and
Suppliers of
(MJSA) and The Society of
North American
Goldsmiths (SNAG).
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<=>
<=> QUOTE WORTH
RE-QUOTING <=> <=>
Some men see things as they are and say why...
I dream of things that never were and say why
not.
George Bernard Shaw
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<=> <=> TAKE-IN NOT TAKEN <=> <=>
Tips for jewelers taking in
jewelry at the
repair counter.
Fully describe on the
envelope any engraving on
the inside of the shank and
explain to the
cus
the engraving, some sizing
and repair work may
necessitate re-engraving the
ring.
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QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING
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But one thing I do: Forgetting what is behind
and straining toward what is ahead, I press on
toward the goal.
Philippians 3: 13
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United Precious
Metal Refining
United is a full service refiner for Gold,
Silver, Platinum, & Palladium. We specialize
in Refining for the jewelry Industry,
processing everything from sweeps to karat
scrap.
Technical assistance on all phases of
manufacturing and jewelry casting is only a
phone call away. Call
us today at
1-800-999-3463 or visit us online at
http://www.unitedpmr.com/
United Precious Metal Refining
Simply
the Best
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<=>
<=> WORKSHOP SAFETY FOR
JEWELERS <=> <=>
Workshop Safety Tips From
GAS HANDLING
Part 1
Jewelers work with compressed
gases of all
kinds: in torch systems,
kilns, casting
machines, abrasive
blasters, laser welding
machines needing argon and
more. Many of these
gases are flammable and an
explosion hazard.
Acetylene, propane and
hydrogen are examples.
Oxygen is often used with
these gases. Oxygen
is a potent fire risk if it
comes in contact
with oils, greases or
flammable materials, even
fingerprint grease left in
a fitting has caused
a fire before.
Some gas handling
guidelines:
Always read the manufacturers
operating
instructions slowly and
carefully three times
and then review them every
six months. If you
do not have them get a set
from your gas
distributor, either
specific for your equipment
or general ones. Always follow those
instructions; you can be
hurt if you do
something different with
the equipment. Also
make sure you are properly
instructed in their
use by a knowledgeable user.
Keep a maintenance log for
the gas equipment and inspect it regularly.
Check with your fire
department about proper
installation and legal
issues of having your
gas equipment. Do the same with your insurer
(this is a reason why some
jewelers use water
torches which avoid the
problem of storing gas
on the premises because the
torch makes
hydrogen and oxygen for
fuel as you need it).
Be especially careful with
hydrogen gas and ask
your supplier for full
safety regulations. In
some places the fire
department needs to know
you have it on the
premises.
Use good housekeeping
practices in the work
area. Keep things tidy and cleaned up. Only
have the necessary tools
out on work surfaces.
Prepare your work area. Do not have flammable
or combustible materials
near the work area.
Always check labels to see
the right gas is
being used. Oxygen regulators and hoses should
be marked with Use No Oil.
Only use equipment and
fittings for the gases
they were designed for,
using acetylene for
instance with copper pipe
can cause copper
acetylide to form which can cause an explosion.
Always handle cylinders
carefully. Do not drop
them, bump them, or use
them as rollers to move
heavy objects (no
kidding-that has been an
accident cause) or as
supports.
Have any repairs done by
the qualified people;
do not modify or repair
cylinders, valves,
regulators yourself unless
you too are properly
trained to do that. If you are changing
service companies or
regulators from one
company to anothers equipment be very careful
that contamination does not
result which could
result in fire or explosion.
Always keep cylinders
chained up to a permanent
fixture to prevent them
falling. This is
particularly important with
compressed gases
like large acetylene tanks,
nitrogen and oxygen
cylinders.
Keep cylinders and valves
clean at all times to
avoid leaks. When attaching the regulator blow
out any dirt in the opening
by opening and
closing the valve for a
brief instant (use eye
protection). Inspect the filter in the inlet
nipple of an oxygen
regulator to see that it is
in position and clean. If it is missing take
it to your repair shop to
be re-fitted.
Regularly test for valve
and fitting leaks
using soapy water or a
commercial window
cleaning solution. Dip your hose in a bucket
of water with the gas
pressure on to check for
hose leaks. Test after changing tanks and
other times as well. Some people recommend
testing for leaks every
time you use the
system. Never use a flame to test for leaking
gases. While this seems obvious the number of
warnings around on this
issue says something
about previous accidents.
For more information on Workshop safety from
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/safety.htm
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QUOTE WORTH RE-QUOTING
<=> <=>
The future belongs to those who believe in the
beauty of their dreams.
Eleanor Roosevelt
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all the advice from many excellent jewelers
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Membership includes: Topical Discussion
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Buy/Sell Channels, Plus Much More.
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Thank You for
We are on the World Wide Web.
Visit us at: http://www.BWSimon.com
A complete archive of back issues of E-BENCH is
located there.
Visit often, as we will be making changes to
our site, adding additional useful information
for bench jewelers.
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<=> SUBSCRIPTION
INFORMATION <=> <=>
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Information provided in this document is
provided As Is without warranty of any kind,
either expressed or implied.
This publication
is designed to provide accurate and
authoritative information concerning the
subject matter covered.
It is provided with
the understanding that the author or publisher
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Copyrighted, 2007, BENCH MEDIA.
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